Thingiverse
Panzertriebwagen nr 16 in H0 (1/87) scale (Märklin) by dasbert33
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
Panzertriebwagen nr 16 in H0 (1/87) scale
For matching panzerjagerwagen, as in the picture go here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771957
They were used on both ends of the railcar for additional firepower.
My goal was to make a fully functional model of Panzertriebwagen nr 16, for use on my Marklin MRR. It has NEM coupler pockets and white/red light changeover with LEDs.
It is based on the good old metal BR81 chassis. This was the closest (& cheapest) resemblance of the original engine under the armored dome, the WR550D.
Some compromises have been made for my MRR, most noticable near the lights. They are not freestanding but integrated in the turret chassis. The coupler rods have been made 1mm longer to negotiate curves better.
I recommend R2 (420mm radius) curves only, I think some steps are in the way for proper R1 operation.
Most parts have been printed in PLA in 0.1 Z-res. Buffers, NEM coupler holder and lightguides have been printed in ABS, the latter in transparent ABS. For the coupler this is because of better elasticity (better centring), and for the buffers for better rigidity.
I also recommend to glue the buffers.
Everything was designed in FreeCad.
Parts to be printed, amount requirements are between brackets:
(1x) balk1_1mm.stl: coupler rod between center body and turret part. Mount on the engine side of the BR81 chassis.
(1x) balk2_1mm.stl: coupler rod between center body and turret part. Mount on the electronics side of the BR81 chassis.
(2x) blob.stl: upper part of the turret chassis
(4x) buffer.stl: buffers for the chassis, best printed in ABS and glued to chassis. Use 1mm drill to clear the holes
(2x) chassis.stl: lower part of turret chassis. (print upside down). It has provisions for cable guiding. Use thin cables (0.5mm).
(1x) dakaf.stl: roof of the center armored dome
(2x) dakdeksel.stl: covers for on the roof, hiding some srews
(4x) draaistel.stl: bogies for under the turret parts (print upside down)
(1x) klok.stl: main body of armored dome (print upside down). It has mounting space for a PCB on both ends that can host a connector
(2x) koppeling.stl: NEM coupler pocket, compatible to original marklin Relex couplers, should be usable on other models as well. Best printed in ABS
(2x) lichtgeleider_L.stl: left side light conductor. To be printed in a transparent material if lighting is to be used. I used transparent ABS.
(2x) lichtgeleider_R.stl: right side light conductor. To be printed in a transparent material if lighting is to be used. I used transparent ABS.
(2x) pcbhouder.stl: holder to be able to mount a pcb with LEDs. See lichtpcb.stl for shape info. Can be made out of standard 100mil pitch prototype boards with
(2x) toren.stl: the turrets for both ends
Reference parts, not to be printed:
br81_chassis.stl: how the br81 chassis should more or less look like after cutting away the buffers. I used this to design the body around.
lichtpcb.stl: how the PCB with the LEDs should look like (10x2 holes 2.54mm pitch print)
Other material required:
NEM362 compatible coupler (2x). I used Marklins.
wheelsets (8x): Artitec 20.340.01 or compatible. You can also recycle wheelsets from Marklin Hobby car wheels (10.4mm diameter, 24.4mm length, pointy ends)
2.6mmx8 self tapping screws with collar (4x) (2.6mmx6 will also work). Used for mounting the roof on the body and for holding the NEM-coupler.
2mmx6 self tapping screws with collar (6x). Used for mounting the bogies and the coupler bars betweens center and outer pieces.
1.6mmx5 self tapping screws (24x). Used for mounting the electronics, lighting, turret body on turret chassis.
0.5mm diameter steel wire. To create the different handrails (8 pieces) by cutting to length and bending.
(Old) Marklin BR81 locomotive. #3031, #3032, #30321, #30322. Only the older model with the full rods (and old metal coupler system) will work.
The newer one has a different coupling system and is not compatible with this design.
M2.5 screws for mounting the body on the BR81 chassis, where the original coupler rod steering was mounted.
Electronics:
0603 SMD LEDs red (4x)
0603 SMD LEDs white (4x)
1206 1K SMD resistor (4x)
1.6mm thick, 2.54mm (100mil) pitch PCB prototype board, to be cut into shape to fit
100mil pitch headers & receptacles, if you want the turrets parts to be able to easily disconnect. On the main body there are mounting holes for PCBs to hold these.
cabling for the lights, 0.5mm in various colors
Usefull tools:
Drills of sizes: 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.8mm, 2.7mm to clean the holes for the screws etc.
Modifying the BR81 for Pz16:
The chassis is to long and the buffers and cilinders have to be removed. I used an oscillating multitool, but you can also use a Dremel.
Make sure to remove all loose parts before starting the surgery: motor, electronics, slider, coupler rods.
The most important part is that you keep the coupler mounting intact as we will reuse it for the couplers bars.
Refer to the reference part 'br81_chassis' to see how it should look like when finished. Ideally the body fits snug over the chassis you have cut.
Also, the cilindric part with threads on the 3rd axle should be shortened to be able to fit the body. I recommend cutting off only the threaded part.
Have fun with this design.
For matching panzerjagerwagen, as in the picture go here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771957
They were used on both ends of the railcar for additional firepower.
My goal was to make a fully functional model of Panzertriebwagen nr 16, for use on my Marklin MRR. It has NEM coupler pockets and white/red light changeover with LEDs.
It is based on the good old metal BR81 chassis. This was the closest (& cheapest) resemblance of the original engine under the armored dome, the WR550D.
Some compromises have been made for my MRR, most noticable near the lights. They are not freestanding but integrated in the turret chassis. The coupler rods have been made 1mm longer to negotiate curves better.
I recommend R2 (420mm radius) curves only, I think some steps are in the way for proper R1 operation.
Most parts have been printed in PLA in 0.1 Z-res. Buffers, NEM coupler holder and lightguides have been printed in ABS, the latter in transparent ABS. For the coupler this is because of better elasticity (better centring), and for the buffers for better rigidity.
I also recommend to glue the buffers.
Everything was designed in FreeCad.
Parts to be printed, amount requirements are between brackets:
(1x) balk1_1mm.stl: coupler rod between center body and turret part. Mount on the engine side of the BR81 chassis.
(1x) balk2_1mm.stl: coupler rod between center body and turret part. Mount on the electronics side of the BR81 chassis.
(2x) blob.stl: upper part of the turret chassis
(4x) buffer.stl: buffers for the chassis, best printed in ABS and glued to chassis. Use 1mm drill to clear the holes
(2x) chassis.stl: lower part of turret chassis. (print upside down). It has provisions for cable guiding. Use thin cables (0.5mm).
(1x) dakaf.stl: roof of the center armored dome
(2x) dakdeksel.stl: covers for on the roof, hiding some srews
(4x) draaistel.stl: bogies for under the turret parts (print upside down)
(1x) klok.stl: main body of armored dome (print upside down). It has mounting space for a PCB on both ends that can host a connector
(2x) koppeling.stl: NEM coupler pocket, compatible to original marklin Relex couplers, should be usable on other models as well. Best printed in ABS
(2x) lichtgeleider_L.stl: left side light conductor. To be printed in a transparent material if lighting is to be used. I used transparent ABS.
(2x) lichtgeleider_R.stl: right side light conductor. To be printed in a transparent material if lighting is to be used. I used transparent ABS.
(2x) pcbhouder.stl: holder to be able to mount a pcb with LEDs. See lichtpcb.stl for shape info. Can be made out of standard 100mil pitch prototype boards with
(2x) toren.stl: the turrets for both ends
Reference parts, not to be printed:
br81_chassis.stl: how the br81 chassis should more or less look like after cutting away the buffers. I used this to design the body around.
lichtpcb.stl: how the PCB with the LEDs should look like (10x2 holes 2.54mm pitch print)
Other material required:
NEM362 compatible coupler (2x). I used Marklins.
wheelsets (8x): Artitec 20.340.01 or compatible. You can also recycle wheelsets from Marklin Hobby car wheels (10.4mm diameter, 24.4mm length, pointy ends)
2.6mmx8 self tapping screws with collar (4x) (2.6mmx6 will also work). Used for mounting the roof on the body and for holding the NEM-coupler.
2mmx6 self tapping screws with collar (6x). Used for mounting the bogies and the coupler bars betweens center and outer pieces.
1.6mmx5 self tapping screws (24x). Used for mounting the electronics, lighting, turret body on turret chassis.
0.5mm diameter steel wire. To create the different handrails (8 pieces) by cutting to length and bending.
(Old) Marklin BR81 locomotive. #3031, #3032, #30321, #30322. Only the older model with the full rods (and old metal coupler system) will work.
The newer one has a different coupling system and is not compatible with this design.
M2.5 screws for mounting the body on the BR81 chassis, where the original coupler rod steering was mounted.
Electronics:
0603 SMD LEDs red (4x)
0603 SMD LEDs white (4x)
1206 1K SMD resistor (4x)
1.6mm thick, 2.54mm (100mil) pitch PCB prototype board, to be cut into shape to fit
100mil pitch headers & receptacles, if you want the turrets parts to be able to easily disconnect. On the main body there are mounting holes for PCBs to hold these.
cabling for the lights, 0.5mm in various colors
Usefull tools:
Drills of sizes: 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.8mm, 2.7mm to clean the holes for the screws etc.
Modifying the BR81 for Pz16:
The chassis is to long and the buffers and cilinders have to be removed. I used an oscillating multitool, but you can also use a Dremel.
Make sure to remove all loose parts before starting the surgery: motor, electronics, slider, coupler rods.
The most important part is that you keep the coupler mounting intact as we will reuse it for the couplers bars.
Refer to the reference part 'br81_chassis' to see how it should look like when finished. Ideally the body fits snug over the chassis you have cut.
Also, the cilindric part with threads on the 3rd axle should be shortened to be able to fit the body. I recommend cutting off only the threaded part.
Have fun with this design.
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...no 1
designconnected
sibast no 1 computer generated 3d model. designed by sibast, helge.
turbosquid
$2
desert house(1)(1)
...3d model desert house(1)(1) for download as 3ds, max, and obj on turbosquid: 3d models for games, architecture, videos. (1055095)