Thingiverse
Shell Speaker - Oak base plate by petolone
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
Last update: Uploaded the simple raisers that I used to avoid the ends of the terminals sticking our from the other side of the bottom plate. (I drilled recesses for the back side nuts of the terminals.)
To put it short:
Just love looks of the original design, but I only have an ANET8 based AM8 project that roughly has the build volume of a Prusa MK2.5 (...I guess). Hence I had to cut out the base in Meshmixer.
Otherwise the thing is unchanged vs. the original and ex. uses the very same SEAS FU-10RB full-range element.
Just get these off the table:
Why not...
...just removing the base instance from OpenSCAD source? => At least my latest OpenSCAD install did not eat the source code properly and just got stuck.]
...just moving the base below the build surface in the slicer? => Design was even then still too high for my printer.
...just just uploading a make => To me this is a bit more than just a "make" as a) the STL really had to be modified and b) I will add a wooden base to my version.
Tips for printing
Turn the piece around Y-axis such that it a) fits to your build volume height and b) the center of the piece does not need any supports
Turn the piece around Z-axis so that the axis of the symmetry on the XY-diagonal
Do a dry-run: Drive the print head to the max height of the piece just to check that you do not get any surprises.
(My 1st speaker succeeded after 3 failed attempts...)
In a bit less than "just" 2 days, you should have your shell...and then you repeat it for the second channel. I am right now printing the 2nd shell with ETA of 20h (fingers crossed).
With my printer I used full dimensions of X & Y (ref. Prusa i3 MK2 hotbed) AND all but last 25mm of my available Z-height.
For the base: My plan of record is to glue the speaker on a solid-glue-wood oak piece. (I'll cut it from a "raw" shelf material available cheap at local Bauhaus.) Just oil the piece.
=> I'll keep this thing updated with my progress and final result.
To put it short:
Just love looks of the original design, but I only have an ANET8 based AM8 project that roughly has the build volume of a Prusa MK2.5 (...I guess). Hence I had to cut out the base in Meshmixer.
Otherwise the thing is unchanged vs. the original and ex. uses the very same SEAS FU-10RB full-range element.
Just get these off the table:
Why not...
...just removing the base instance from OpenSCAD source? => At least my latest OpenSCAD install did not eat the source code properly and just got stuck.]
...just moving the base below the build surface in the slicer? => Design was even then still too high for my printer.
...just just uploading a make => To me this is a bit more than just a "make" as a) the STL really had to be modified and b) I will add a wooden base to my version.
Tips for printing
Turn the piece around Y-axis such that it a) fits to your build volume height and b) the center of the piece does not need any supports
Turn the piece around Z-axis so that the axis of the symmetry on the XY-diagonal
Do a dry-run: Drive the print head to the max height of the piece just to check that you do not get any surprises.
(My 1st speaker succeeded after 3 failed attempts...)
In a bit less than "just" 2 days, you should have your shell...and then you repeat it for the second channel. I am right now printing the 2nd shell with ETA of 20h (fingers crossed).
With my printer I used full dimensions of X & Y (ref. Prusa i3 MK2 hotbed) AND all but last 25mm of my available Z-height.
For the base: My plan of record is to glue the speaker on a solid-glue-wood oak piece. (I'll cut it from a "raw" shelf material available cheap at local Bauhaus.) Just oil the piece.
=> I'll keep this thing updated with my progress and final result.
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