Thingiverse
Rostock Max v2 Enclosure by Crashin_Machines
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 2 years, 12 months ago
These are the brackets needed to make an enclosure for your rostock max v2. You will need 3 base and 3 top pieces. You can print 3 at a time with the build area.
Locate the brackets on the extrusions and bolt the brackets to the rostock's top and base using 6-32x.75" bolts with nuts (M3 x20mm bolts will work too). You will need to drill holes in your printer. I used one sheet of 36" x 48" x .093" acrylic http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-36-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-09/202038045
and one piece of 1/8" x 12" x 36" acrylic for the door. Cut all sheets to 29" in length with a plastic scraping cutter or saw and cut the .093" sheet into 3-6" widths and 2-12" widths for the enclosure sides. All hardware is 1/4-20 nyloc nuts and 1/4-20 x 7/8" SHCS, but I would recommend 1" length bolts since mine didn't reach the nylon in the nuts, but it was what I already had in my garage. I sealed the case with silicone and foam tape on the seams to try and eliminate all gaps for the best insulation. For the door I just bought door hinges at the depot and I used a soldering iron for all holes in the acrylic because it cracks very easily with a standard drill.
You will need this layer fan mount to clear the enclosure when printing towards the extents of the build plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1700221
I used this 40mm mount to cool the extruder stepper: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1705843
I wired the 40mm fan to a rocker switch next to the one I use for my lights and used the X-axis extrusion to run a pair of 20ga wires down for the fan.
If you want to illuminate your cabinet, here is the rocker switch box I modeled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1421639 and here are the extrusion mounts for the LED strips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1702064
Locate the brackets on the extrusions and bolt the brackets to the rostock's top and base using 6-32x.75" bolts with nuts (M3 x20mm bolts will work too). You will need to drill holes in your printer. I used one sheet of 36" x 48" x .093" acrylic http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-36-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-09/202038045
and one piece of 1/8" x 12" x 36" acrylic for the door. Cut all sheets to 29" in length with a plastic scraping cutter or saw and cut the .093" sheet into 3-6" widths and 2-12" widths for the enclosure sides. All hardware is 1/4-20 nyloc nuts and 1/4-20 x 7/8" SHCS, but I would recommend 1" length bolts since mine didn't reach the nylon in the nuts, but it was what I already had in my garage. I sealed the case with silicone and foam tape on the seams to try and eliminate all gaps for the best insulation. For the door I just bought door hinges at the depot and I used a soldering iron for all holes in the acrylic because it cracks very easily with a standard drill.
You will need this layer fan mount to clear the enclosure when printing towards the extents of the build plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1700221
I used this 40mm mount to cool the extruder stepper: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1705843
I wired the 40mm fan to a rocker switch next to the one I use for my lights and used the X-axis extrusion to run a pair of 20ga wires down for the fan.
If you want to illuminate your cabinet, here is the rocker switch box I modeled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1421639 and here are the extrusion mounts for the LED strips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1702064
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