Thingiverse
Haenau - Update by ceri
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
A few minor changes, to the front motor mounts.
and a re-design for the back mounts.
Also a NEW E3D - easy swap print head dolly,
and an untested 'DIAMOND HEAD' mount,
still waiting for MK8 extruders from china, so cannot test it :(
Videos:
First print, Marvin - https://youtu.be/JAmZMetpKMQ
Some SERIOUS Z-Wobble: https://youtu.be/t6d9e5BzREk
Note: Z Wobble was because the threaded rod was not correctly fitted in the coupling !
Myself and my 10 year old daughter built this printer, so she can have her own printer.
with only a couple of screwdrivers, drill, small PCB (used as a spacer - so brackets were in same height) good ruler, I did use a set square, but it relay is not needed.
and a jig-saw, to cut out top sheet.
And the panels, were cupboard doors/shelves, so no need for table saw, because accuracy is already there.
I think there is going to be a lot of Mine-craft prints in the house soon.
If you can afford a REAL E3D Hotend, then I do recommend it,
Just look at the feed jam I had !!
Also as a point of interest, a simple fix to a poor print quality, and extruder jamming, (especially well into a print - just about when you go for coffee etc.)
If you are using an ATX-PSU, then drive the hotend cooling fan from 15.3 Volts, of even 17 Volts, by using the -12 Volt rail, and either +3.3 or + 5.0 Volt rail.
This gives an amazing improvement, and only a small increase in noise, nothing compared to the steppers :)
and a re-design for the back mounts.
Also a NEW E3D - easy swap print head dolly,
and an untested 'DIAMOND HEAD' mount,
still waiting for MK8 extruders from china, so cannot test it :(
Videos:
First print, Marvin - https://youtu.be/JAmZMetpKMQ
Some SERIOUS Z-Wobble: https://youtu.be/t6d9e5BzREk
Note: Z Wobble was because the threaded rod was not correctly fitted in the coupling !
Myself and my 10 year old daughter built this printer, so she can have her own printer.
with only a couple of screwdrivers, drill, small PCB (used as a spacer - so brackets were in same height) good ruler, I did use a set square, but it relay is not needed.
and a jig-saw, to cut out top sheet.
And the panels, were cupboard doors/shelves, so no need for table saw, because accuracy is already there.
I think there is going to be a lot of Mine-craft prints in the house soon.
If you can afford a REAL E3D Hotend, then I do recommend it,
Just look at the feed jam I had !!
Also as a point of interest, a simple fix to a poor print quality, and extruder jamming, (especially well into a print - just about when you go for coffee etc.)
If you are using an ATX-PSU, then drive the hotend cooling fan from 15.3 Volts, of even 17 Volts, by using the -12 Volt rail, and either +3.3 or + 5.0 Volt rail.
This gives an amazing improvement, and only a small increase in noise, nothing compared to the steppers :)
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