Thingiverse
Full Width Light Bar by Dzinr
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 2 years, 11 months ago
This is a simple modification of version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849418 (an LED fixture I created for my own needs), at the request of Allan47. I believe the intent is to be used on a CR10S which is laid out differently than my Sidewinder X1. The housings are designed to fit on a 300x 300 bed. This is an untested modification in this configuration. This fixture situates the LED lights near the outside perimeter of the build plate so the parts aren't in the shadows of the gantry and extruder.
I simply cut ends off the earlier version, extended slightly and mirrored the bodies. This configuration is apt to require a couple of screws mid section due to extra length.
Bottom housing was designed for a single t-nut on each end to hold in the t slot rails. The original fixture had 4 snap tabs to hold top housing to bottom, but due to layer direction, they didn't hold up so well. The intent to hold the top housing to the bottom is by sticking a piece of 1.75mm filament thru the holes in the 4 side locations (extra screws may be needed as mentioned above). This feature I haven't tested as I am still utilizing the original housings I made with no need for this configuration, but its a simple concept and doesn't require digging for screws.
This unit will require a 1M 5V USB Cool White LED Strip. I purchased https://www.ebay.com/itm/323187912842?var=512269096246 Cut the strip in designated areas between the copper dots and de-solder the USB cable. Hold the 2 housings together and mark the square hole openings on the inside of top housing for proper LED positioning. Peel the adhesive backing off the LED's and stick to inside of top housing. Run the USB cable up into one of the outer holes alongside the t-nut connection on the bottom housing. Solder the LED's to USB cable per wiring sketch on one end. Polarity is important with LED's. A slide switch can be added at your discretion. I am using an energy saving power strip that turns on and shuts off power to designated plugs when printer is switched on or off; therefore not requiring a switch.
Take a look at my other sidewinder X1 upgrades:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784042 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Extruder Cover V4 w/ Strain Reliefhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4783250 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Left X Cover with Cable Strain Reliefhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774786 Bed Heater Strain Relief Artillery Sidewinder X1https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4592828 V Slot Frame Spool Holderhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4563465 ASX1 Runout Sensor Lead Inhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839858 Artillery Sidewinder X1 TFT Plug Guidehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849418 Light Bar (ASWX1 or other 2020 3D Printer Frame)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863723 Sidewinder X1 Easy Firmware Flash TFT Switch Mount
I simply cut ends off the earlier version, extended slightly and mirrored the bodies. This configuration is apt to require a couple of screws mid section due to extra length.
Bottom housing was designed for a single t-nut on each end to hold in the t slot rails. The original fixture had 4 snap tabs to hold top housing to bottom, but due to layer direction, they didn't hold up so well. The intent to hold the top housing to the bottom is by sticking a piece of 1.75mm filament thru the holes in the 4 side locations (extra screws may be needed as mentioned above). This feature I haven't tested as I am still utilizing the original housings I made with no need for this configuration, but its a simple concept and doesn't require digging for screws.
This unit will require a 1M 5V USB Cool White LED Strip. I purchased https://www.ebay.com/itm/323187912842?var=512269096246 Cut the strip in designated areas between the copper dots and de-solder the USB cable. Hold the 2 housings together and mark the square hole openings on the inside of top housing for proper LED positioning. Peel the adhesive backing off the LED's and stick to inside of top housing. Run the USB cable up into one of the outer holes alongside the t-nut connection on the bottom housing. Solder the LED's to USB cable per wiring sketch on one end. Polarity is important with LED's. A slide switch can be added at your discretion. I am using an energy saving power strip that turns on and shuts off power to designated plugs when printer is switched on or off; therefore not requiring a switch.
Take a look at my other sidewinder X1 upgrades:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784042 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Extruder Cover V4 w/ Strain Reliefhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4783250 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Left X Cover with Cable Strain Reliefhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774786 Bed Heater Strain Relief Artillery Sidewinder X1https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4592828 V Slot Frame Spool Holderhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4563465 ASX1 Runout Sensor Lead Inhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839858 Artillery Sidewinder X1 TFT Plug Guidehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849418 Light Bar (ASWX1 or other 2020 3D Printer Frame)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863723 Sidewinder X1 Easy Firmware Flash TFT Switch Mount
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