Bolt-On Bowden Mount For a Stock Monoprice Maker Select V2.1, Wanhao Duplicator i3 by ModifiedDesigns3D

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Update 1-11-17 - Push fittings are adding slop. Use compression style fittings, but don't over compress as it will tighten the tubing around the filament.
Update 3-12-17 - I originally designed the extruder mount as an open design. Its been pretty cool for me to watch the filament feed, and easy to clean stringies and such without dismantling the whole thing. And to load filament I was using a pair of mini needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight. After I changed the rolls 10x in a day, I found this too impractical. So good news!! I added in sort of guide rails for quicker filament changes!
Your 3d printer does so much for you! So do it a favor and take a little weight off its shoulders!
I introduce to you, a bolt-on Bowden system I built for my completely (as of now) stock Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (and this will inherently work for the Wanhao Duplicator I3).
Get rid of that moving mass, lessen your vibration, increase your quality, print faster!
Parts and Instructions
Parts List (pretty simple)
Bolts -
M3-0.5x8mm (x2 to attach the motor mount to the Z-frame)
M3-0.5x10mm (x2 to mount the motor to the motor mount)
The original motor mount bolts M3-0.5x(mine were 37mm) can be used. I bought 40mm is what i used. If you want to be safe you can use a 45mm length which will allow room for a nyloc.
I got all the nuts and bolts by walking into Home Depot, in their small bolts bin.
Tubing-
You can use pretty much whatever tubing you want, Seems the 3d community uses 1/8" PTFE, but I didn't have any laying around or wanted to wait for shipping. At work I did have access to 5/32" O.D. Synflex tubing which works great!!
The mount holes are designed to accept 1/8" NPT fittings.
So whatever tubing you decide to use, make sure they have 1/8" pipe threads.
I'm currently using 24" of tubing, 28 might be ideal?
You might have done some Googling by now and asking yourself.
How do I get my hands on some Synflex without buying a 500' roll?
Call or walk into any number of your local heavy duty diesel repair dealerships/ repair shops (Freightliner/Kenworth/Volvo/Peterbuilt). You can buy it by the foot and some shops have multiple colors. They should have both tubing and fittings! make sure you get push fittings. Maybe if you're lucky you will come across some freebee scrap trimmings or clean used pieces! Some parts departments are open 24h, so don't be afraid to call in the middle of the night!
Assembly (a little more complicated but simple)
Print your parts!! lol there is a left and right motor mount for either side of the gantry (note: the left side print will orientate the extruder lever to the back).
The Extruder mount will swap your fan to the right side. Makes everything nice and centered (but you can mirror this piece if you require a different view). Clean your printed pieces, insert the fitting into the motor mount. Wait to install the extruder mount fitting
Install the motor mount on the 2 existing upper bolt holes. Use two 8mm bolts(any longer and the Z-carriage will contact).
Unclip your extruder motor connector. (take some pics so you know where each wire is connected!!!!!).
Using the eye-side of a needle, insert into the top wire side of the connector to free the lock tab, and pull the wire and needle out at once.
Take a small piece of scotch tape and wrap the wire connectors. Align the wires together and flat keeping the shape of the ribbon, using a small piece of scotch or packing tape (smooth tape) not bulky. This prevent the edges of the connectors catching as you pull them through the cable chain.
Gently pull the extruder motor wire/s back through the chain. Keep the chain straight wherever the taped connectors are as they don't like to bend. Also you only need to pull the wire ribbon it out of the X-axis chain.
Un mount your extruder motor and install to your motor mount with two 10mm bolts.
Select your bolt sizes you plan to use and attach the extruder mount. Place your push fitting over the hole and start to screw it in by hand while looking thru the center of the fitting. Align it so the filament port is at the furthest bottom of the fitting opening or barely visible.
Tubing - Use the corner of a razor blade and taper the inside of one side (like a funnel) and insert that side into the motor mount and the other side into the extruder mount.
Calibrate! Raise your extruder slowly to the top, verify your clearance and you can print the full 180mm. If your bed is leveled on the high end of the z-stop, you will loose clearance.
Viola!!

Pictures explaining the install are found here
https://www.facebook.com/ModifiedDesigns3D/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1878180105751362
For the most part, this is a finished model. Ill see if I can squeeze in the last few mm for those that have their bed calibrated on the high end. Comment or send a message so I know how much as my printer clears the whole 180mm.