Thingiverse
YALE (Yet Another Lack-Table Enclosure) by TOLP2
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
The idea
Depending on the brand of the printer you bought, the noise can be quiet irritating. As a tinkerer the sound of a 3D-printer is a charm, but lets face it: does everybody in the house thinks the same. Same goes also with the smell, when one starts to print other stuff then PLA.
Therefore I would like to have a enclosure for my 3D-printer:
Based on a Ikea Lack table (costs around €5.00 here);
Plexiglass all around, supported thickness 3 mm to 8 mm (as I didn't know on beforehand what material I could get my hands on);
Sleek design: no visible mounting on the outside of the enclosure, all wires for ventilation and LED-lightning inside the legs of the table;
But there are already tons of enclosures on Thingiverse
Why re-invent the wheel. First of all, I would like to get myself familiarized with designing parts with Fusion 360. Secondly, I'm really fond of the color red. The only better thing than the color red is the combination of the color red with black.
Because the printer is taller than the height of the Lack table, the legs have to be extended. Instead of extending the legs only on one side, I would like to have the legs extended on both side equally. And also add some way to fix the plexiglass sheets as well.
Leg extenders
The leg extenders are placed on both top and bottom of the legs. There are three leg extenders:
leg extenders with two fixed walls (you'll need 4 of these);
leg extenders with one fixed wall and door stop on the other side (you'll need 2 of these). In the door stop there is a recess for a small Neodium magnet with a diameter of 5 mm and a thickness of 2 mm;
leg extenders with one fixed wall and mounting for the hinges of the door (you'll need 2 of these). TODO: this part is still to be designed
The leg extenders are mounted on the table with 3 screws and a 7 mm hexagon head wood screw. The 2 screws on the outside should be 4x12 mm. The one inside the leg should be 3.5x35 mm.
Hidden leg mounts
The leg extenders are mounted on the legs with 2 3.5x35mm screws and a 7 mm hexagon head wood screw. On one side of the leg there is already a mounting hole for the hexagon head wood screw, on the other side a hole should be pre-drilled in the leg.
The legs of the Ikea Lack table are everything but square and 50x50 mm. The accuracyof the leg is enough for an average piece of furniture, but for a sleek enclosure this will make nasty visible lines. Therefore, to mount the hidden leg mount a fixture is included. The notch on the corner will be the outside corner of the leg later on: using the fixture ensures the leg extender on being flush with the outside of the leg.
There are four holes for screws in the mount. This is a little overkill to mount the leg, as the screws only prevent rotation of the mount. I have used some of the holes to put through electricity wires (the legs are hollow). I bored through the top and bottom wood with a 5 mm drill. With a solid rod one can pull the electricity wire through.
Depending on the brand of the printer you bought, the noise can be quiet irritating. As a tinkerer the sound of a 3D-printer is a charm, but lets face it: does everybody in the house thinks the same. Same goes also with the smell, when one starts to print other stuff then PLA.
Therefore I would like to have a enclosure for my 3D-printer:
Based on a Ikea Lack table (costs around €5.00 here);
Plexiglass all around, supported thickness 3 mm to 8 mm (as I didn't know on beforehand what material I could get my hands on);
Sleek design: no visible mounting on the outside of the enclosure, all wires for ventilation and LED-lightning inside the legs of the table;
But there are already tons of enclosures on Thingiverse
Why re-invent the wheel. First of all, I would like to get myself familiarized with designing parts with Fusion 360. Secondly, I'm really fond of the color red. The only better thing than the color red is the combination of the color red with black.
Because the printer is taller than the height of the Lack table, the legs have to be extended. Instead of extending the legs only on one side, I would like to have the legs extended on both side equally. And also add some way to fix the plexiglass sheets as well.
Leg extenders
The leg extenders are placed on both top and bottom of the legs. There are three leg extenders:
leg extenders with two fixed walls (you'll need 4 of these);
leg extenders with one fixed wall and door stop on the other side (you'll need 2 of these). In the door stop there is a recess for a small Neodium magnet with a diameter of 5 mm and a thickness of 2 mm;
leg extenders with one fixed wall and mounting for the hinges of the door (you'll need 2 of these). TODO: this part is still to be designed
The leg extenders are mounted on the table with 3 screws and a 7 mm hexagon head wood screw. The 2 screws on the outside should be 4x12 mm. The one inside the leg should be 3.5x35 mm.
Hidden leg mounts
The leg extenders are mounted on the legs with 2 3.5x35mm screws and a 7 mm hexagon head wood screw. On one side of the leg there is already a mounting hole for the hexagon head wood screw, on the other side a hole should be pre-drilled in the leg.
The legs of the Ikea Lack table are everything but square and 50x50 mm. The accuracyof the leg is enough for an average piece of furniture, but for a sleek enclosure this will make nasty visible lines. Therefore, to mount the hidden leg mount a fixture is included. The notch on the corner will be the outside corner of the leg later on: using the fixture ensures the leg extender on being flush with the outside of the leg.
There are four holes for screws in the mount. This is a little overkill to mount the leg, as the screws only prevent rotation of the mount. I have used some of the holes to put through electricity wires (the legs are hollow). I bored through the top and bottom wood with a 5 mm drill. With a solid rod one can pull the electricity wire through.
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