X-129R "Monster Whoop" - Micro Brushless 3D Printed FPV Quadcopter Drone Frame Kit by Karamvir_Bhagat

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

X-129R
Frame Specifications:
Frame: True X
Motor to motor: 129 mm
Motor mount configuration: 9 mm – 12 mm in M2 hardware
Recommended Motors: 11xx – 14xx
Propeller: Clearance for 3" propellers
Stack mounting:
X-129 & X-129 both accept 16 mm x 16 mm in M2
X-129 is for 20 x 20 up to M3. Adapters can be used for M2.5
X-129R is specifically for M2 in particular the Emax Magnum Mini F3 stack
Camera Mounting:
19 x 19 cameras and Tiny Whoop Cameras up to 13.8 mm lens diameter with use of adapter piece.
File Designation & Selection - IMPORTANT:

Please kindly familiarize yourself with the build guide below for a full understanding.


For M2 hardware use only files labelled X-129R.


For hardware up to M3 use files labelled X-129

DO NOT MIX FILES FOR YOUR BUILDS. THEY ARE LABELLED SO THAT THEY WILL SELF ORDER IN YOUR FILE BROWSER FOR EASE OF SELECTION.
Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/254825821981391/
Build & Parts Guide:
This quad like all other Monster Whoops is designed to be flexible and accommodating to allow you to utilize the maximum number of components with ease and to build in various configurations.
There is no “strict” build instruction. It is a case of understanding how the parts function together to allow you to build a quad.
This frame was intended to allow people to transfer their parts directly across a Babyhawk R. Therefore, all the hardware is in M2, save for the camera mount slot which is in M3.
I wanted the designed to be versatile so I created two versions. The X-129 and the X-129R. The X-129 is for M3 hardware and with adapters can utilizes M2 AND M2.5 hardware also. The X-129R is specifically for use with the BabyHawk R parts and is therefore only takes hardware in M2.
DO NOT MIX FILES IN YOUR BUILD THEY ARE LABELLED CLEARLY.
To build, mount 4 arms to the body plate by use of the adequate hardware. You will need to secure this via two points to lock in place. If you choose to keep your stack straight you will need to mount through into the bottom of the stack. If you wish to separate your stack for additional protection you can rotate it corner forward like a Tiny Whoop.
You can use a second body plate as a top plate and then mount arms off this to modify your configuration. Otherwise you can utilize the provided Top Plate to keep AUW to a minimum.
You will note that body, top plates and arm plates come in variety of thicknesses.
These are 2.8 mm, 1.7 mm and 1.1 mm.
This is to allow you to stack plates together to make up a single piece. This adds flexibility and shock resistance and also allows you to experiment with different colours and materials.
Recommend combinations are listed below:
Structural pieces:
You should use thicknesses of 2.8 mm or that equate to at least this. You should not exceed a maximum of 3.3 mm
Open Sandwich: For example, one 1.7 mm piece + one 1.1 mm piece.
Classic Sandwich: 1.1 x 3.
A TPU core flanked by PLA or PETG has been quite durable and makes a good combination and prevents tearing off of electronic components in hard impacts.
Hybrid:
There are three kinds of hybrids that you can make.
The first involves placing a 1.1 mm plate on top of 2.8 mm core structural piece or on top of a three-dimensional piece such as arm. In different colours and different piece combinations this can appear quite attractive.
The second is for added protection and vibration reduction. You can do the same as above and print in TPU. This will prevent parts from getting ripped off during very hard impacts and will additionally provide inherent dampening and “soft mounting” to motors and the flight stack.
The third is for anyone who wishes to utilize the plate files and have them cut in carbon. They can then utilize the printed parts as the wish to add decoration or strength.
Arms:
The arms come in “Plate” form in the same designation as above and also in a three-dimensional form. Of the latter there are 4 types.
Arm: This is the standard arm and is the heaviest but strongest of all the pieces. It is recommended for more powerful setups and 13xx + motors.
Arm Lite: This is the same as the standard arm but is slightly shorter in height and therefore also lighter. This is recommended for 11xx motors.
Arm Vertical: This is the same in dimension as the regular arm with the plate section cut away. This is to allow greater airflow and to reduce weight. This is recommended for use with 13xx + motors.
Arm Vertical Lite: This is the same as the Arm Vertical but is slightly shorter in height and therefore also lighter. This is recommended for 11xx motors.
Camera Mounting:
X-129 & X-129 will require M3 hardware to secure the camera mount to frame in the slot. The slot is to allow you to adjust your camera position to suit your liking.
The camera mounts have been given extra clearance at 20 mm so that 19 x 19 cameras can fit with ease. You will need M2 hardware to mount your camera.
There 5 main camera mount pieces you can use.
The first is the main camera mount and it can be it is the tallest with holes on either side to mount the camera.
The second camera mount is the same as the first but has a slot to allow you to adjust your vertical camera position.
The “Drop Head” mount allows you to mount down off the Top Plate and again the same as the main mount in appearance but is a shorter mount with holes in M2.
The Universal Camera Mount Adapter will accommodate lenses up to 13.8 mm in diameter. This is meant for Tiny Whoop style, de-cased or separated camera units. To mount your camera, begin by getting a small elastic/rubber band, looping it over the lens and putting one twist in it to look like an 8. Take the other loop, pull it up and over the back of your camera and hook it over the lens to secure. Be careful of your wires and your lens when installing to avoid any damage.
Soft Mounts & Shims:
Depending on the material that you use to print these, these can be either shims or soft mounts (or both). There are different thicknesses for you to choose from so that you can get the best fit for your motors.
Motor Mounting:
YOU MUST USE AT LEAST 3 BOLTS FOR YOUR MOTORS! USING 2 BOLTS WILL CAUSE A MID AIR MOTOR DETACHMENT IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL!
Important Notes:
I have not been able to source parts from any companies to help me develop my frames.
I ensure to use the listed measurements and to check for fitment where I can with parts I have to hand. I try very hard to ensure that fitment is the best that I can achieve without physically having the parts to verify this. I have used my friend's Babyhawk R to test for fitment and it appears that there are no issues.
I must therefore state that since I have not personally tested this frame in flight, that it is a "beta" version. Once someone can kindly confirm by way of a flight DVR I will remove this label. I wanted to inform you the user so that at least you are aware of this before you invest any of your time or money.
Using and creating third party parts:
This frame was made like the other Monster Whoops frames to be easily customized and to accept additional parts easily. The standard hole mounts have been included in X and + configurations to allow for maximum versatility. These can be used for accessory mounting or allow antennas, wires or zip ties to pass through.
Since the holes are using the standard patterns it should be easy for you to make add on parts that fit easily to customise your build.
Tuning:
One concept I am exploring is how the proportions of the frame and its dimensions relative to each other can be used to naturally cancel out and inhibit/dampen inherent vibration.
I call this concept active geometry. It is based on the principles that form can tune vibration, for example in a pitch fork and that opposing kinetic vectors (vibrations) can cancel each other.
Every part of this frame is in perfect proportion and the dimensions are governed by a formula that I created. This is why the frames have their unique appearance.
I have noted that I have less inherent vibration in my frames, less “jello” and a minimal need to tune, if any, to get good performance.
The most prominent thing that I notice is that my frames seem to have a unique tone.
I normally just transfer my parts from frame to frame as I design. I didn’t notice this at first, but one day I was watching some line of sight footage of the same parts on a carbon frame and noticed a surprising difference. Since then I have tried to pay close attention and do indeed feel that there is a noticeable silencing/muffling effect.
It’s hard to describe, but I think once you notice it, it of stands out.
In the mid to high throttle range there seems to be less inherent jumpiness where you should normally expect to see it. It is in this throttle range where you also normally hear your quadcopter start to “scream”.
Somehow in my printed frame, the tone remains tight? I also note less twitchy response in general.
I would appreciate if anyone else could kindly pay attention to this and see if they too note can note this difference or anything in general when using this frame. I had made modifications to my frame mapping equation and want to see if this has any effect.
Flying advice:

Printed frames are not carbon frames, it’s easy to forget that when you are flying. It is advised to treat a printed frame like that of a Tiny Whoop and to avoid landing on the motor bottoms or corners of the arms.


When you first get it into the air, treat it gently until you get used to it. Since there frames are designed to balance perfectly and are actually “true X” this may feel a little strange at first. You may note that your sticks will be more even across all the axis of movement.


It is recommended to bottom mount the battery for the longevity of the frame and arms. Of course, once you are proficient and comfortable flying with the frame mount as you wish.


Plastic frames will protect your components very well, particularly from current and voltage spikes that normally kill components during crashes. Secondarily the frame breaking during an impact absorbs a great deal energy which would otherwise damage your components. The frames are designed to fully enclose the key components as much as possible of the drone so you should hopefully enjoy parts that last for a long time.

ALWAYS CHECK FLYING REGULATIONS AND RESTRICTIONS LOCAL TO YOU BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO FLY YOUR CRAFT.
Originality of Design
Of key importance to me is that my designs are original works. I always make my designs from scratch and try and make them as distinct as possible.
I have taken great care make sure that my design does not take directly from anyone else’s work or infringes on any copyrights or patents.
The unique geometry of this design alongside its unique design features identifies it as an original design and also builds in copy protection. If there is any duplication of any part of this design, a measurement can be taken of any two points and by simple calculation it can be proved.
I am a British citizen and this design was produced in the United Kingdom. The natural design rights reside with me as accorded by European Union law.
Just as a polite warning to anyone, I am legally trained.
Legal Disclaimer:
In no event shall I the designer be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special consequential damages, to property or life, whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of any of my designs.
In using my work you acknowledge that any and all liability is with you the user.
You use this design at your own risk and are responsible for any consequences as such.