VertexEvo (Rev.1) - Vertex K8400 Evolution by Bo_Ris

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This is the initial version of VertexEvo. Newer and improved version is published here.
Please check also my Vertex-H MOD, which is the next step after VertexEvo.
Before you start making such a major modification to your Vertex printer please be aware about Cons:
Properly assembled and tuned K8400 can produce rather good printouts and it is unlikely that this upgrade will further improve print quality
VertexEvo works in CoreXY printing mode that requires firmware upgrade to the latest Marlin version 1.1.5. As the result you will loose K8400-specific menu items like filament loading/unloading, LED light control, etc. Entire menu structure will be different and it may take you some time to get used to it.
Front and side panels of K8400 are not strong enough to hold the amount of load produced in CoreXY mode. As the result the panels wobble and this in some cases may slightly degrade print quality. To address this you will need to attach 25mm x 3mm aluminium bars along the top of front and side panels.
Having polyurethane GT2 belts with steal threads is the must, however the threads eventually break, belts stretch and will need to be replaces 2-3 times a year.
You may need to adjust (lower) the speed and acceleration to retain original quality, i.e. overall printing time will increase. At certain speeds side panels start to resonate, which causes additional noise.
This mod requires soldering. You will need to relocate X-stop sensor from back panel to the print-head, extend and re-route X-stop wires.
You will need to drill a hole in aluminium plate supporting the print-bed to move it forward and down as described here.
and Pros:
Printer has much simpler mechanics, only linear bearings and is easier to tune and maintain.
There are only 2 belts instead of 6 in the original design.
The carriage outer shape is very simple, which makes it easy to change the print-head. You can even design and attach your own print-head, for example single e3D with proximity sensor, etc.
When using dual e3D, there is no need to cut heat sinks as in my other designs published here and here.
Dual e3D mount can be tilted along Y-axis that makes it very easy to level nozzles.
Overall print volume increases from the original 6840 cm³ to over 7414 cm³.
This design is completely revertible, i.e. you can always roll back to the old configuration.
Other considerations:
STL files posted here were designed for 0.35mm nozzles (wall thickness 0.7, 1.05 and 1.4mm). They were printed with e3D hotend on K8400 that has all my mods posted earlier on Thingiverse. Unfortunately I have no way of testing how well the things posted here will print with the original hotend from Velleman.
You will need to use the latest Arduino version to compile and install the latest firmware.
Having 2 Carbon-fiber 8mm rods for X-axis is highly recommended. Each weights about 14 grams versus 200 grams of steel equivalent.
The print volume with dual e3D print-head and MK3 heated bed is X=182mm, Y=210mm and Z=194mm.
Bill of Materials

Left Motor and rear-left Y-rod mount
4 x M3 x 8mm screws for motor mount
2 x M3 x 12mm screws for Y-rod
4 x M5 x 16mm socket-cup screws
4 x M5 self locking nuts
1 x GT20 pulley with 5mm bore


Right Motor and rear-right Y-rod mount
4 x M3 x 8mm screws for motor mount
1 x M3 x 12mm screw for Y-rod
4 x M5 x 16mm socket-cup screws
4 x M5 self locking nuts
1 x GT20 pulley with 5mm bore


Left Front Corner with front-left Y-rod mount
1 x M5 x 50mm socket-cup screw
5 x M5 x 16mm socket-cup screws
6 x M5 self locking nuts
2 x GT2 idler pulleys with teeth and 5mm bore
2 x M3 x 12mm screws for Y-rod


Right Front Corner with front-right Y-rod mount
1 x M5 x 50mm socket-cup screw
5 x M5 x 16mm socket-cup screws
6 x M5 self locking nuts
2 x GT2 idler pulleys with teeth and 5mm bore
2 x M3 x 12mm screws for Y-rod


Left XY Clamp
2 x M3 x 16mm screws for Y-rods
6 x M3 x 12mm screws for X-rods
2 x M5 x 25mm socket head button screws
1 x GT2 idler pulley with teeth and 5mm bore
1 x GT2 idler toothless pulley with 5mm bore
1 x 8mm tube bearing


Right XY Clamp
2 x M3 x 16mm screws for Y-rods
6 x M3 x 12mm screws for X-rods
2 x M5 x 25mm socket head button screws
1 x GT2 idler pulley with teeth and 5mm bore
1 x GT2 idler toothless pulley with 5mm bore
1 x 8mm tube bearing


Rods
2 x 8mm x 315mm steel rods for Y-axis
2 x 8mm x 320mm carbon-fiber rods for X-axis


Print head
4 x 8mm IGLIDUR linear bearings
2 x e3d v6 original hotends (clones will not fit)
5 x M4 x 20mm socket cup screws for dual e3d holder and filament fan
8 x M3 x 15mm screws for dual e3d fan mount and for carriage corners
5 x M3 x 12mm screws mounting dual e3d holder and pcb with cable holder
2 x M3 washers (optional but recommended)
14 x M3 self locking nuts
9 x M3 x 8mm screws for X-stop sensor, filament fan mount, pcb mount
4 x M3 x 30mm socket cup screws for belt ends
1 x filament fan


Belts
2 x 1.5 meters of polyurethane belt with steel enforcement

Other
1 paper clip to hold belt ends
All bearings, filament fan and many screws and nuts can be reused from the original printer.