Thingiverse
Vertex K8400 Power Inlet by jimconner
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
There were already fourteen different IEC power inlet designs on Thingiverse when I created this, but none of them quite matched the inlet block I had kicking around. (Well.. one of them had a hole the correct size, but it left the live terminals exposed on the back). I decided to design the fifteenth IEC inlet on thingiverse for the K8400 so that I could get something which perfectly suits my requirements.
The IEC inlet block fits flush with the front, and clips into place correctly using it's little built-in springy plastic lugs as it was designed to do, and all of the live electrics are safely hidden away at the back under a clip-on lid. No screws, glue or any extra bits needed. Just print, screw into the printer and then snap the IEC block into place.
Because of the internal lip on the part which holds the IEC block in place, I designed-in a break-away support which prints in-place, but can then be eased out with the help of a sharp knife and a pair of needle-nosed pliers. All the parts should print cleanly without any supports. I used a 5mm brim for bed adhesion, but not sure it was necessary - it's just my default setting for using PETG.
The tolernaces on this design are pretty tight - I tweaked the design to print cleanly on my particular printer (which has and E3Dv6 hot-end and 0.4mm nozzle rather than the stock Vertex hot-end). For me it prints cleanly and works well. For other hot-end setups you might need to do a little finishing work to enlarge the hole where the inlet block sits.
Here's an ebay link for the exact IEC Inlet block I used - This is the one which fits this design. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-5-10-Male-Power-Socket-Fused-Rocker-Switch-IEC320-C14-Inlet-Colours/222505789920
The IEC inlet block fits flush with the front, and clips into place correctly using it's little built-in springy plastic lugs as it was designed to do, and all of the live electrics are safely hidden away at the back under a clip-on lid. No screws, glue or any extra bits needed. Just print, screw into the printer and then snap the IEC block into place.
Because of the internal lip on the part which holds the IEC block in place, I designed-in a break-away support which prints in-place, but can then be eased out with the help of a sharp knife and a pair of needle-nosed pliers. All the parts should print cleanly without any supports. I used a 5mm brim for bed adhesion, but not sure it was necessary - it's just my default setting for using PETG.
The tolernaces on this design are pretty tight - I tweaked the design to print cleanly on my particular printer (which has and E3Dv6 hot-end and 0.4mm nozzle rather than the stock Vertex hot-end). For me it prints cleanly and works well. For other hot-end setups you might need to do a little finishing work to enlarge the hole where the inlet block sits.
Here's an ebay link for the exact IEC Inlet block I used - This is the one which fits this design. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-5-10-Male-Power-Socket-Fused-Rocker-Switch-IEC320-C14-Inlet-Colours/222505789920
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