Thingiverse
Tronxy/3DCStar P802 Z-Axis Threaded-Rod Bearing Holder/Stabilizer by wypoon
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
This is a great, easy upgrade to stabilize the Z-Axis threaded rod. Simply press-fit a 8x22x7 bearing into the holder, glue (solvent is best if printed in ABS) on the nub, and fit the holder into the existing threaded-rod hole in the acrylic chassis.
The holder is designed to be a snug interference-fit, so simply heat the bearing to 70C (for PLA) and then press the bearing into the holder. Do not overheat or the holder will deform!
There is built-in compensation for FDM printing clearance of 0.8mm between the nub and the centering socket on the holder, to allow for +0.4mm of oversize on the nub, and +0.4mm undersize on the receiving socket.
Wrap one layer of Kapton tape around the threaded-rod to make it fit snugly into the bearing (i.e. you want to bearing inner race to rotate with the rod).
No drilling of the chassis or cutting of rods need to be done. The bearing holder is designed to have a low profile when installed, so simply loosen the set screws on the Z-coupler to accept the holder. Make sure to push up on the threaded rod to butt the holder up tight against the top acrylic frame plate before tightening the set screws.
UPDATE #1: A single-piece .STL and .GCODE have been added ... if you are comfortable with printing and removing supports. The .GCODE is pre-sliced with supports, and I recommend using this as it can be difficult to get the settings right for supports (that you can actually remove) -- just be sure to modify the three temperatures lines to suit your material.
UPDATE #2: The clearance for the bearing (as well as for the nub) has been reduced by 0.2mm to make it a more snug fit.
The holder is designed to be a snug interference-fit, so simply heat the bearing to 70C (for PLA) and then press the bearing into the holder. Do not overheat or the holder will deform!
There is built-in compensation for FDM printing clearance of 0.8mm between the nub and the centering socket on the holder, to allow for +0.4mm of oversize on the nub, and +0.4mm undersize on the receiving socket.
Wrap one layer of Kapton tape around the threaded-rod to make it fit snugly into the bearing (i.e. you want to bearing inner race to rotate with the rod).
No drilling of the chassis or cutting of rods need to be done. The bearing holder is designed to have a low profile when installed, so simply loosen the set screws on the Z-coupler to accept the holder. Make sure to push up on the threaded rod to butt the holder up tight against the top acrylic frame plate before tightening the set screws.
UPDATE #1: A single-piece .STL and .GCODE have been added ... if you are comfortable with printing and removing supports. The .GCODE is pre-sliced with supports, and I recommend using this as it can be difficult to get the settings right for supports (that you can actually remove) -- just be sure to modify the three temperatures lines to suit your material.
UPDATE #2: The clearance for the bearing (as well as for the nub) has been reduced by 0.2mm to make it a more snug fit.
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