Thingiverse
Spirit Halloween Proton Pack Mod Parts by WindDrake
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Modification parts for the Spirit Halloween Proton Pack.
Filler plates are designed to be glued in behind the area in question (speaker grille, molded-in Clippard after it's cut off) and then the area should be filled with epoxy or spot putty and sanded/blended smooth.
The Powercell Lens prints great in translucent blue PLA. You must print it solid, with supports, and the small side against the build surface. The supports should easily pick off, and the lens should pop right into place from behind. Flame polish the surface if you want, just be careful doing it.
The V-Hook outer filler plate is actually asymmetrical. If it doesn't fit one way, rotate it 180* and try again. The inner plate however should just drop into place and index with the center pin. Remove the old center piece first (4 screws). These parts are designed to beef up the area when installing a regular V-Hook.
The loom clamps engage the 1/2 Polypropylene loom via the small teeth each one has. Note which is inserted from the rear (looking at the inside of the pack) and which is from the top (looking at the outside of the pack). Each will need to be curved slightly to lay into the pack body - do this by gently heating, then pressing against the cyclotron body so that they take up the proper curve.
Update - 10/2/2017:
Added the small and large long Dale resistors that go on the Ion Arm. These now have 1/8 holes in the middle to fit the 1/8 tubing used on the Spirit packs. Had to do a ton of remodeling to fix the original files, which had huge mesh issues.
Update - 10/3/2017:
Added a remodeled Brass Elbow, which mounts on an easier-to-redrill 1/4" hole, and accepts 1/8 tubing.
Update - 10/4/2017:
Added nut-capturing mount for mounting the pack shell to the motherboard. These use 5mm nuts. I recommend using nylocks and lightly gluing them in.
Update 10/6/2017:
Added the missing second booster tube connection. Make the actual booster-tube side out of a small chunk of 1/4" corrugated loom, connect with blue 1/8" tubing.
Update 10/18/2017:
Added a Spirit Wand to 1/2" (Stock) Loom Coupler
Update 10/25/2017:
Added a much-asked-for full Guntrack, V-Hook (Male and Female) and fully integrated V-Hook mount on the pack. The peg on the wand sticks through part of the guntrack, so be sure to use the WAND POST CUTTING JIG to trim it to length. Install on the peg and cut off anything that sticks out, then remove and install the guntrack. M3x8mm screws used in all places, must be flat head to clearance.
Second Update 10/25/2017:
Updated the Booster Tube Connection model to R2, made slightly larger and better matched the ribbing on the pack.
Update 10/31/2017:
Happy Halloween! Removed Clippard Insert files, as I designed a new one for my replacement full-size Clippard model. See my Things and check it out!
Update 11/11/2017:
Added totally remodeled Booster Tube. Simply print and glue in place - don't bother with the stock screws. Also added an HGA Replacement Cap. Glue into place and clear the screw hole paths with a 5mm drill bit, then install 4 M5 socket head cap screws.
Update 11/12/2017:
Added a Dale PH25 Resistor model. Remixed from MileyORiley's Proton Pack files, no .skp for this because it's a direct mesh manipulation done in Meshmixer. I resized the model to correctly size up against the real Dale PH25 on my full size proton pack.
Update 11/20/2020:|
Added "Spirit Pack STLs.zip" because Thingiverse is broken and "Download All" isn't working anymore. Grab this to get all the STL's in one go.
Filler plates are designed to be glued in behind the area in question (speaker grille, molded-in Clippard after it's cut off) and then the area should be filled with epoxy or spot putty and sanded/blended smooth.
The Powercell Lens prints great in translucent blue PLA. You must print it solid, with supports, and the small side against the build surface. The supports should easily pick off, and the lens should pop right into place from behind. Flame polish the surface if you want, just be careful doing it.
The V-Hook outer filler plate is actually asymmetrical. If it doesn't fit one way, rotate it 180* and try again. The inner plate however should just drop into place and index with the center pin. Remove the old center piece first (4 screws). These parts are designed to beef up the area when installing a regular V-Hook.
The loom clamps engage the 1/2 Polypropylene loom via the small teeth each one has. Note which is inserted from the rear (looking at the inside of the pack) and which is from the top (looking at the outside of the pack). Each will need to be curved slightly to lay into the pack body - do this by gently heating, then pressing against the cyclotron body so that they take up the proper curve.
Update - 10/2/2017:
Added the small and large long Dale resistors that go on the Ion Arm. These now have 1/8 holes in the middle to fit the 1/8 tubing used on the Spirit packs. Had to do a ton of remodeling to fix the original files, which had huge mesh issues.
Update - 10/3/2017:
Added a remodeled Brass Elbow, which mounts on an easier-to-redrill 1/4" hole, and accepts 1/8 tubing.
Update - 10/4/2017:
Added nut-capturing mount for mounting the pack shell to the motherboard. These use 5mm nuts. I recommend using nylocks and lightly gluing them in.
Update 10/6/2017:
Added the missing second booster tube connection. Make the actual booster-tube side out of a small chunk of 1/4" corrugated loom, connect with blue 1/8" tubing.
Update 10/18/2017:
Added a Spirit Wand to 1/2" (Stock) Loom Coupler
Update 10/25/2017:
Added a much-asked-for full Guntrack, V-Hook (Male and Female) and fully integrated V-Hook mount on the pack. The peg on the wand sticks through part of the guntrack, so be sure to use the WAND POST CUTTING JIG to trim it to length. Install on the peg and cut off anything that sticks out, then remove and install the guntrack. M3x8mm screws used in all places, must be flat head to clearance.
Second Update 10/25/2017:
Updated the Booster Tube Connection model to R2, made slightly larger and better matched the ribbing on the pack.
Update 10/31/2017:
Happy Halloween! Removed Clippard Insert files, as I designed a new one for my replacement full-size Clippard model. See my Things and check it out!
Update 11/11/2017:
Added totally remodeled Booster Tube. Simply print and glue in place - don't bother with the stock screws. Also added an HGA Replacement Cap. Glue into place and clear the screw hole paths with a 5mm drill bit, then install 4 M5 socket head cap screws.
Update 11/12/2017:
Added a Dale PH25 Resistor model. Remixed from MileyORiley's Proton Pack files, no .skp for this because it's a direct mesh manipulation done in Meshmixer. I resized the model to correctly size up against the real Dale PH25 on my full size proton pack.
Update 11/20/2020:|
Added "Spirit Pack STLs.zip" because Thingiverse is broken and "Download All" isn't working anymore. Grab this to get all the STL's in one go.
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