Rostock Max V3 slim enclosure by Noircogi

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

Slim enclosure for Rostock Max V3.
Requires my part fan shroud mod: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867 which moves the fans up and in to clear the sides of the enclosure.
To complete this you will need:
20 x 1/4-20x3/4" bolts
20 x 1/4-20 Nyloc nuts
12 #8x3/8" sheet metal screws
16 3mm x10mm socket head machine screws
16 3mm nyloc nuts
3 3mm x 36mm machine screws for the hinge pivots
You can use 0.093 (or thicker) sheet acrylic for the sides. I recommend 1/8" or thicker for the door.
I cut my own using a router, but Tap Plastics will cut parts to order for a very reasonable price. If doing it over, I would probably just have had them cut all of the pieces.
The small pieces are 6.5 x 27.5 inches. You need three of them. Each needs 4 holes 5/16" in diameter (slightly over-sized to give some margin). The centers of the holes are 1/2" from the top/bottom and 1 1/4" from the edges.
The larger pieces are 12x27.5 inches. Two of them need 5/16" mounting holes. The centers of the holes are 1/2" from the top/bottom and 1" from the edges. The door doesn't need the 5/16" holes but you will need to have holes to mount the hinges and latch.
Print 3 top brackets, 3 bottom brackets, 3 hinge sets, one latch front and one latch side.
The brackets are attached to the top and bottom plates using the #8 sheet metal screws. Make sure the ends of the brackets are about 1/8" in from the outer edge of the Max's top/bottom plate when you screw them down. Just enough room so the acrylic will be flush with the outer edge of the base plate on the printer. You will need to drill pilot holes to get the screws started.
The Acrylic is attached to the brackets using the 1/4x20 bolts and nuts.
The hinges and latch are attached to the acrylic using the 3mm bolts and locknuts.
If you're not an expert at drilling acrylic, I recommend you use a fine soldering iron tip to make those holes. Tape the door into place, and hold everything snug together when marking the holes for the hinges and latch. Bolt the hinges on one side and snug things up before marking the other holes for the other half of that hinge.
The 30 degree angle on the latch side piece should line up perfectly with the edge of the side plexiglass. The front latch piece should be mounted such that it both holds the door closed, and the side piece snug.
The brackets were re-mixed to move the plexiglass right to the edge of the base-plate on the printer. That required extending the arms. They will still print easily on a max or even (just) on a 6x9" printer. The top bracket is notched to allow the carriages to make it to the home position.
The hinges were made twice as wide, and fixed to have clearance for the pivot.
The latch pieces were derived from the hinge pieces to maintain a common look.
The latch works really well if you have it properly positioned. It will hold the door closed and the right side tight against it, yet it's still easy to open and close.
I used gaffer's tape to block all of the openings between the build area and the top and bottom sections of the printer.
For airflow in the bottom section, I made a hole in the front plate, right in front of where I added an SSR and heatsink to drive the bed heater with my 24V power supply upgrade. It can be seen in the photo if you look closely.
In the top section, I just moved the rambo fan up above the rambo with and made an opening for it to pull in outside air.
After 30 minutes of ABS printing with the bed at 90C, the inside is at around 40C and will go up some from there.
Also included is a mount for this thermometer which I use to monitor the temperature inside the enclosure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D79YU9I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1