Thingiverse
Rostock Max Tower Braces by tajd3
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 2 years, 11 months ago
Designed these braces for my SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v2 after the melamine fittings started to get a little loose.
Installation:
Holes have to be drilled in the melamine and the drop-in t-slot nuts can be quite frustrating, especially in the top. I used the largest hex wrench that would fit in the track to lift the t-slot nut into place for the top brackets. If you like to have a beer while you work, wait till you get the top bracket t-nuts in place. You'll need all your dexterity and by the time you finish you'll really need some suds. :lol:
The top bracket has a void for the uppermost 1/4"-20 machine screw so don't remove that one. The lower one will need to be replaced with one 1/4" longer. I used M3 for everything else cuz that's what I already have. If you want a stouter screw you'll have to drill out the screw holes in the braces accordingly. Also, I used fender washers where they would fit. Because the upper brackets require removing existing hardware I only did one bracket at a time to reduce the chance of messing up the frame geometry.
In the pics I posted you can see wires poking out the corner of the lower braces. I had wires for LEDs running up through the extrusion track so I added a hole in the braces for that. Use it if you like or just ignore it.
There is just one file for top and one for bottom. Just print 3 as is and three more mirrored. I didn't slice the braces as they drop onto the slicer build surface, I laid them on the triangular side (the side facing toward the center of the bed in the pictures) for best strength.
Installation:
Holes have to be drilled in the melamine and the drop-in t-slot nuts can be quite frustrating, especially in the top. I used the largest hex wrench that would fit in the track to lift the t-slot nut into place for the top brackets. If you like to have a beer while you work, wait till you get the top bracket t-nuts in place. You'll need all your dexterity and by the time you finish you'll really need some suds. :lol:
The top bracket has a void for the uppermost 1/4"-20 machine screw so don't remove that one. The lower one will need to be replaced with one 1/4" longer. I used M3 for everything else cuz that's what I already have. If you want a stouter screw you'll have to drill out the screw holes in the braces accordingly. Also, I used fender washers where they would fit. Because the upper brackets require removing existing hardware I only did one bracket at a time to reduce the chance of messing up the frame geometry.
In the pics I posted you can see wires poking out the corner of the lower braces. I had wires for LEDs running up through the extrusion track so I added a hole in the braces for that. Use it if you like or just ignore it.
There is just one file for top and one for bottom. Just print 3 as is and three more mirrored. I didn't slice the braces as they drop onto the slicer build surface, I laid them on the triangular side (the side facing toward the center of the bed in the pictures) for best strength.
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