Thingiverse
Rigidbot Big Acrylic Enclosure by noen
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
Update: 6.29.2016
After using this for a while, there's a couple of improvements I would recommend. I inserted a webcam and digital thermometer inside. Routing the cables through the z-stop cutout is possible, but you may want to create a notch/hole elsewhere to route the cables out.
Temperatures for ABS have been fantastic. Throwing a blanket over the entire unit, I sustain a 54C internal temperature for ABS, resulting in zero warping and extremely predictable prints. By just covering the top of the unit, temps of 45C are consistent. Note: for PLA, you'll likely want to remove the entire front door panel to prevent heat buildup.
This is a project for a fully enclosed build chamber for the Rigidbot Big 3D Printer. It is designed to add the absolute minimal amount to the footprint of the printer without compromising the build volume. There is a slight loss in the Z-height at the left edge because of my conservative spacing for material spools. You can regain this by enlarging the relief box, or moving it entirely edge to edge if you don't use the spool rack.
It is optimized to be used with 18x24" 5mm (.220") Acrylic that is available in the USA at Lowe's (http://www.lowes.com/pd_239981-1638-1AG2123A_0__?productId=3502292) and Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-220-in-x-18-in-x-24-in-Clear-Acrylic-Sheet-1AG2123A/100260547).
You will also need 8 M4 Screws between 12mm and 16mm in length. I used 12mm stainless steel socket cap screws. The M4 screws that come with the printer are not long enough to work.
The dimensions for the cut files have been measured and have enough tolerance to account for slight deviations in your printer, but you may still need to do some light clean up work.
To glue the joints and the door hinges, you will need Acrylic Cement (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130) and an Applicator (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/plastic_tools_supplies/hypo_type_solvent_cement_applicator/409)
I used one self-closing hinge (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acrylic_hinge_self_closing/609) and two clear acrylic hinges (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_hinge_2/122) and an acrylic pull handle (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_pull_acrylic_handles/120) all from TAP Plastics to assemble the front door.
The single springed hinge keeps the door closed, but allows it to stay in a set open position when swung wide open.
A normal Rigidbot will need to have the plans altered quite a bit, but should use significantly less material, because it won't require splitting pieces (the RigidbotBig has pieces that are over 24" in length).
After using this for a while, there's a couple of improvements I would recommend. I inserted a webcam and digital thermometer inside. Routing the cables through the z-stop cutout is possible, but you may want to create a notch/hole elsewhere to route the cables out.
Temperatures for ABS have been fantastic. Throwing a blanket over the entire unit, I sustain a 54C internal temperature for ABS, resulting in zero warping and extremely predictable prints. By just covering the top of the unit, temps of 45C are consistent. Note: for PLA, you'll likely want to remove the entire front door panel to prevent heat buildup.
This is a project for a fully enclosed build chamber for the Rigidbot Big 3D Printer. It is designed to add the absolute minimal amount to the footprint of the printer without compromising the build volume. There is a slight loss in the Z-height at the left edge because of my conservative spacing for material spools. You can regain this by enlarging the relief box, or moving it entirely edge to edge if you don't use the spool rack.
It is optimized to be used with 18x24" 5mm (.220") Acrylic that is available in the USA at Lowe's (http://www.lowes.com/pd_239981-1638-1AG2123A_0__?productId=3502292) and Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-220-in-x-18-in-x-24-in-Clear-Acrylic-Sheet-1AG2123A/100260547).
You will also need 8 M4 Screws between 12mm and 16mm in length. I used 12mm stainless steel socket cap screws. The M4 screws that come with the printer are not long enough to work.
The dimensions for the cut files have been measured and have enough tolerance to account for slight deviations in your printer, but you may still need to do some light clean up work.
To glue the joints and the door hinges, you will need Acrylic Cement (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130) and an Applicator (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/plastic_tools_supplies/hypo_type_solvent_cement_applicator/409)
I used one self-closing hinge (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acrylic_hinge_self_closing/609) and two clear acrylic hinges (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_hinge_2/122) and an acrylic pull handle (http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/acryl_pull_acrylic_handles/120) all from TAP Plastics to assemble the front door.
The single springed hinge keeps the door closed, but allows it to stay in a set open position when swung wide open.
A normal Rigidbot will need to have the plans altered quite a bit, but should use significantly less material, because it won't require splitting pieces (the RigidbotBig has pieces that are over 24" in length).
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