Ribber for CSM: Circular Sock Knitting Machine by MrRoboto19

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

This is an experimental ribber I designed for my CSM circular sock knitting machine (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695746).
DISCLAIMER: I haven't made or tested this. Unfortunately, I am having problems with my 3D printer and it will be a while before I can make it. But, I thought there might be a few adventurous souls out there that are willing to be a guinea p.. err, Official Tester. Be warned that it may not work and you will probably have to remake some parts. My only request is that if you make it, please post comments here when you are done (good or bad).
Version History:
v3: Release 3/7/21
Parts List:
Ribber needles (style #1, 12 ga, for Auto Knitter / Legare, regular size hook): https://angoravalley.com/sockmachines/accessories.html
(2X) Skateboard bearings: 8mm ID x 22mm OD x 7mm thick
O1 drill rod (unhardened / tight tolerance): 1/8" and 8mm diameters
Misc. lengths of M3 cap screws, nuts, and washers
30 min epoxy
3D Printing:
PETG or ABS. Not sure how PLA would work (may be too brittle).
0.2mm layer height. 4 layers top / bottom. 4 perimeters. 20% infill.
I tried to design everything without supports, but you may need them on a few parts.
Assembly:
You will need the cams from V2 to work with the new Cam Shell.
Cut 2 pieces of 8mm drill rod to 4-1/8" long. Slightly chamfer ends and push into holes in the Cam Shell until they touch the bottom. Don't glue. This should be a easy fit, but not sloppy.
Cut 1 piece of 8mm drill rod to 2-1/8" long. Slightly chamfer ends. If you will be switching ribber dials often, make sure the rod will slide easily into the bearings. If not, polish entire OD with very fine sandpaper or steel wool.
Sand 3/8" of one end and glue into the Dial Adjuster. It should be flush with the "non flat" side. Wait for glue to set.
Push Dial onto the 2-1/8" drill rod. It should be able to turn easy, but not be sloppy.
Add screw thru hole on top edge of Dial, thru the slot in the Dial Adjuster, and into the plastic Nut.
Cut 1 piece of 1/8" drill rod to 3/8" long. Slightly chamfer ends. Sand 0.15" of one end (thickness of the cam) and glue into the In Out Cam. It should be flush with the side that has the hex hole for the nut. Push into Tappet plate. Sand sides of Cam as needed so it twists easily. Add screw / washer / nut.
Do the same with the Tension Cam, but cut the drill rod to 1/2". Add pointer to top of Tappet.
Add 2 nuts to under side of Tappet plate. Push a bearing into the Tappet plate and push assembly onto the 2-1/8" drill rod.
Push a bearing into the Arm and push onto 2-1/8" drill rod. Add 2 screws with washers.
Push Shaft Collar onto 2-1/8" drill rod. The small end should point toward the bearing. Add screw / nut. Make sure all pieces are touching on the 2-1/8" drill rod and tighten Shaft Collar (there should be a small gap between the Dial and Tappet so the Dial can turn freely.
Push assembly onto the (2) 4-1/8" rods in the Cam Shell. Position as needed and tighten with screws / nuts.
Note how Cylinder Stop sits inside the Cylinder (see picture). Sand both pieces where they will touch and epoxy together. I thought it might be easier than making an entire new cylinder. It can be positioned anywhere in the Cylinder, but I would place it opposite from where you do your heels (so forks won't get in the way).
Say a small prayer to the "Cranky" gods and good luck! I realize the Dial adjuster is unconventional, but hopefully it will work OK.
Have fun! Steve