RGB Cupholder V2 by Laptopgeek

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Uomq6r47SU
If you do print one, please upload a photo so I can see how it turned out!
Based on the RGB cupholder razer made a few months ago. The original (Very crappy) video I did for V1 is here: https://www.youtube.com/#watch?v=WHaPzKidslQ (Remove the hash between .com/ and watch)
V2 will require NO SUPERGLUE (Hopefully, anyway) And will be a lot simpler to assemble
There will be an instruction video soon, but I've made this massive block of text for the moment
Materials
RGB LED Strip:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-5M-SMD-5050-3528-RGB-300-600-LED-Strip-Adapter-IR-Remote-Waterproof-Kit-Xmas-/272710166331?var=&hash=item3f7ecae73b:m:mVUISZ0yyiZYo1kxUqGn0wQ
Whatever colour filament you want for the body/base (Mine was white but I recommend black)
Some translucent filament: https://rigid.ink/products/abs-1-75mm-3d-filament-0-03mm-tolerance-1kg-roll?variant=7692922305
Print Settings
Print in whatever orientation uses the least support. Bear in mind that inner ring top has a little bump on the top that will cause supports if printed face down.
I used 0.3mm resolution
Print everything except the translucent disk and the inner ring top at any density (20% is what I used)
The translucent disk should be at a low density, unless you want it to block more light. Mine was printed at 10%
The inner ring top should be a low density too, as it needs to flex slightly to hit the switch (Mine was 5%)
LED Soldering
Take the board out of your LED box, then desolder the power connector. Solder a momentary switch between one pin of the power connector and the board, making sure that it has enough wire to reach the inner ring bottom part.
Part assembly
There is a picture above that has the order of the parts
Superglue the translucent disk to the bottom plate, making sure it's aligned.
Put your LED strips between the 8 little pins surrounding the bottom plate (You can also add a bit of glue to stop them from moving)
Push inner ring bottom from the top of the base down.
Poke the momentary switch through the bottom of the center hole of inner ring bottom, then glue it in place, making sure that it still can click. (If you can't get the momentary switch through, just snap one of the little pins off, it's an issue I'm fixing for the next version)
Glue the power connector and infrared receiver through the gap in the base.
Make sure the wires aren't in the way, then put the base on top of the bottom plate, so that the pins go into the holes.