Reprap - Funbot i1 by RepRapOsterlen

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Added 2016-05-13
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If you ask in comments or message me be patient as i started a new nightshift work that makes me pretty tired.
Only so you know.....
Added 2016-03-23
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I recommend for any new builders to use mad mikes lmu8 remix to avoid any problems with printed bushings.
Its hard and tricky to get them working well with modern pla with all softeners added.
Use cheap hard glossy pla for bushings if you can find it.
Also recommended to use the Bowden remixes instead of the original mk8 version to make it simple.
Cheers cliff mellangård.
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The longer spol top is to remove the pla from snapping of when you don't use the funbot and the extruder is homed.
Something I noticed whas that the angle for the pla where to sharp so it snapped of after 1-2 days above the extruder.
Its supposed to be placed in the rear.
The project is more or less now finished and will only be cleaned up for now on.
If you find any issues let me know so will I fix them.
The y upgrade is up for the ones that want it and removes the nead for the m5 threaded rod,1 bearing and the coupler.
The brand new mk8 combined print cooler and hotend cooler is also up that you see in my latest subscriber movie on my channel.
Cheers.
Update 7 is here now..https://youtu.be/JtbPYe5sG-w
Added the brand new small spol roller wheels and you nead to print 4 of them.
they are supposed to be like wheels on the pipes used for a spol holder so the filament roll rotates softly and should work just as fine on both eu 10 mm as us 3/8 pipes.
They are to compensate for some rolls that have plastic rolls that seam to rotate with resistance towards the chromed pipes.
also the brand new official funbot bushings that slides with very little resistance and flex on uneven surfaces.
they have only bin tested so far on y and x axis with great results.
no nead for multiple sizes anymore to fit all types of printers output.
My inspiration for them is a mashup of igus and traditional lm10uu bearings where the long housing is for stability while the actual contact surface is minimal with good wear.
All latest updates will be explained in a coming video on my channel so be patient ;)
Only bad thing for me is that I seam to have to do a more updated build guide again soon ;)
Added a new pulley wheel caps for the 2 624zz bearings on x and y
axis that will make it a lot easier for the motors to work.
also the new pulley wheel holder that works with the new caps for y axis.
Small update with a new wider x carriage this will decrease the print
size but increase stability and allowe wider bushing spacing.
also have a hole to attach a m3 screw to adjust the endstop hit zone without adjusting the endstop it self.
use a wide head m3 screw.
Updated with 2 new files where one of them are a new taller z base t
hat also have supports to work better on softer base plates.
Also uploaded a new z carriage that have a small attachment so you can finetune the endstop with a m3 screw now instead of moving the endstop itself.
I leaved the 2 old versions for the ones that want to use them instead.
The new z base takes ages to print but is worth it ;) ( 6 hours on slow print on my prusa i3 )
The first beta release of the funbot firmware is now up.
I still have a few things to do on it as the fans on the mk 8 behaves like a print cooler and speeds up at some stages during prints.
this is now based on the latest release of marlin and they made so many changes compared to the old one I used so will take some time to go thru it all.
But it works and iam using it now on my 2 funbots.
Be carful and see that the fan is cooling your mk 8 as if not will it get clogged very fast.
You can control the fan in slic3r with the fan settings this way so not bad at all actually :)

This explains the drill guide for the base.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQHVo17kaQA

Keep in mind that build guide and boom are not up to date until I have uploaded everything and had the time to change it.
The boom should be up to date now only some screw dimensions I might miss ??
Bowden recommended setup for funbot.

You will only have to move the endstop for the y carriage.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706

Sell this design???

I got the question from a reprap manufacturer if I mind if they produce and sell my design.
The simple answer is that I don't mind but I would love if anyone share wath they do with my little design as its cool to see wath others do with it.
I used my own money and skipped the suggested kickstarter solution as I want to share in a true reprap sense.

When you print do it with 3 perimeters like I do to get it as accurate as possible to wath I do.
I use a 0.4 nozzle so some people may nead to correct some settings in slicer to adjust to this.
Also remember to not go above 0.3 in infill density when printing parts that will carry weight or be under force when printer is working.
This is specially the z base and z base top part that holds a lot of weight.
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Work in progress created so I have a space to upload everything as soon as they are done.
If you follow my bom and video build instructions so will you get this print area.
New build guide in the works.(2015-01-15)
Print size is x = 165 y = 170 z = 120

Hellboy print scaled up by 650%http://youtu.be/Bzg8LdMwHmQ

Build guide part 1.( 2015 )

http://youtu.be/tJCb8C3XPSY

Build guide part 2.

http://youtu.be/Ju_Pu2KTsOE

Build guide part 3.

http://youtu.be/GOH9yER8a5I

Build guide part 4.

http://youtu.be/vI6VEQjI7E8

This is going to replace my old tinkerbot design.


Keep in mind that the y base is redesigned from wath you see in the videos and picture to simplify assembly.
This design uses cheap chromed copper pipes and printed lm10uu for rods and sliding bearings.
Makes it very light and silent during prints.
Have bin tested for a while that it actually prints well and are up to the task to be called a printer.
Why I design my wacky builds?
The goal of the printer like all my designs is a lightweight easy to ship and assemble, and the most important goal is that it must be extremely cheap to build and easy to get most parts nearby where you live.
If we achive this so will we have soon have a repraper in every corner in the world independent on wealth and other things that can stop you :)
24-11-14
added various stl fixes and replacements because I noticed I uploaded the wrong files on some stl files..
Added a reprap logo as a alternative cable bracket.
25-11-14
Added a better bearing housing for the y carriage bearing on the drive shaft.
Removed obsolete y carriage base.
Be patient with the updates because there will be many and often during the initial prototyping stage of the printer.
The first parts are more or less placeholders that work and have bin tested and many will be updated during time.
01-12-14
started on the wiki page.http://reprap.org/wiki/Funbot_i1
013-12-14
Uploaded the print cooler and large ramps cover.
Latest upgrades are uploaded.