Thingiverse
QU-BD OneUp/TwoUp Full Redesign by Jeepguy42
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
I will be working on a direct drive version of this in the coming weeks, as I know the cross over belts setup can be touchy.
I am working on fully redesigning the TwoUp as a Utilimaker like design. Greatly increasing the build volume from 175x175x125mm (100x100x125mm for OneUp) to Y250 x X220 x Z200-230mm (if using the longer X and Y rods). The Z is a range only because it can depend on the extruder being used. The 230 would be for the E3D V6 hot end.
Note: This update can be done for the OneUp if your OneUp is reaching the 100x100x125 build area. the largest printed part should now fit in the build area.The design will utilize these Existing Components:
(4) LM8LUU Bearings
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing
(3) R6-2RS Ball Bearings
(4) Stepper Motors
(1) AnUbis Hot End assembly w/ Thermistor
(1) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nut
(1) Printrboard
(1) 12V x 40mm Fan
(1) Power supply
(1) Brass Feeder Nut
(1) Extruder Tension SpringPurchase Parts (these quantities include the reused parts):
(1) HAUHA8-4040E-W400-D400-H400 Aluminum Extrusion Kit MISUMI
(4) 8mm x 350mm Linear Rods
(2) 1602ZZ Bearing
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(6) R6-2RS Bearings
(2) GT2 Belt @ 2000mm - Open
(6) #10-24 - 1 1/4" Flat Head Machine Screw
(12) #10-24 Hex Nut
(1) 1/4-20 x 1/2 Machine Screw - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(12) 1/4-20 x 3/4" Machine Screw/Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 1" Counter Sunk Screw
(12) 1/4-20 Jam Nuts
(2) 1/4-20 Hex Nut
(3) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nuts
(29) M3x16 Machine Screws
(1) M3x25 Machine Screw
(4) M3x30 Cap Screws
(2) M3x50 Machine Screws
(2) M3x60 Machine Screws
(21) M3 Hex Nuts
(8) M4x16 Counter Sunk Machine Screws
(4) M4x30 Machine Screws
(4) M4 Hex Nuts
(8) GT2 Pulley 20Teeth 5mm Bore
(3) 3/8"-12 ACME threaded Rod @ 13" to 13 1/2" long
(1) 1/4" x 16" x 20" Aluminum/Plexiglass/Glass Sheet
(1) .090" to 1/8" x 12" x 12" Aluminum Sheet
(10-12) .36 x .042 x .69 free length Compression Springs
(1) Extruder Tension Spring (the spring from a standard Retractable Gel Pen may work)
Optional - (2) SCS8UU - Pillow Block Linear Bearing (May be used for the Gantry slide Blocks to replace two of the LM8LUU bearings I noted as reused from the OneUp/TwoUp. Note if the Pillow blocks are used you will need (8) additional M4x16 Machine Screws to attach the pillow block to the Gantry Blocks.
.
Uploaded the Bowden I'm going to possibly use.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310239
.
Uploaded the Direct Drive Versionhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:529455
.
Note they are a remix of StephanBuger's from his gantry redesign. Its uses all his part except the back cover which has been modified
.
Uploaded an Azteeg X3 Controler Box as wellhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:521187
.11/12/15
Found a minor issue on the Appendix in my instructions. One of the dimensions showed to the wrong point after printing. I had to select it and move it to get it to render properly. It should now be correct.
.11/9/15
So I've been trying to print a few calibration cubes but I'm currently running into an issue with the belt slipping on one of the pulleys for the X and Y axis causing an occasional shift diagonally across the bed. I'm going to reprint the gear plates as the version I'm using isn't the most current version on here so it doesn't have the counter boar for the nuts to sit in. This should stop the screws from slanting which I believe is causing the slipping I'm experiencing. other than that all movements are working well. I did see what looked like the bed wobbling while raising from all the way down to building position. I may need to put a guide or something at the motor as I believe the flexible coupler (since it only has two screws in it at 90 deg's) isn't sitting centered which is almost forcing the threaded rod to wobble as it turns (If someone knows of a way to correct wobble from a flexible coupler please comment in the comments so I can attempt a quick fix instead of adding/modifying parts). Once I get the slipping issue corrected I'll try printing a tall print and see what it does. I have an idea on how to correct the wobble but it will mean that 2-4 rods and linear bearings would be needed to counteract. I may be able to reuse the LM8LUU bearings but the rods from the OneUp may not work. The TwoUp has four 8mm x 290mm rods that aren't being used currently in this deisgn that could be reused while the OneUp only has two 8mm x 290mm rods that I may be able to reuse. I fear I may need four rods to correct and the remaining OnUp rods are only 200mm which if I add them will reduce the new build height of this printer. No matter a second pair of LM8LUU bearings would be needed for this fix but I may reduce them to just LM8UU bearings as these are smaller and you can order them from amazon (12 for $13.00).
.11/2/15
I updated the parts list as well as added the PDF for the assembly instructions. I've gotten everything to move and work (mostly). I have not made any prints worth showing. Will tighten down the settings and possibly upload the firmware here. There is always room for improvement so feel free to note any changes you've done that might improve on the design.
.4/25/16
Been playing with the Bowden setup and found that without the direct drive plate with the small piece of ptfe tubing for the E3D V6 hot end, the hot end itself tended to wiggle back and forth causing some error in the prints. I designed a plate that will need to be attached through the holes the direct drive would have attached through that has two M3x40 screws and 2 M3 Hex nuts that press down on the top of the hot end enough to secure it from wiggleing. I recommend finding some aluminum screws if you use the E3D hot ends (or E3D clones) to prevent from damaging the Aluminum they are made from. I have updated the instructions with this change. Added to the Part list pages and to Page 10 showing the Bowden Plate. I also added the Anubis filament guide to the downloadable files. I noticed it never attached. Be aware I haven't tested this Anubis guide so it may have issues that I'm not aware of. Use at your own risk
I am working on fully redesigning the TwoUp as a Utilimaker like design. Greatly increasing the build volume from 175x175x125mm (100x100x125mm for OneUp) to Y250 x X220 x Z200-230mm (if using the longer X and Y rods). The Z is a range only because it can depend on the extruder being used. The 230 would be for the E3D V6 hot end.
Note: This update can be done for the OneUp if your OneUp is reaching the 100x100x125 build area. the largest printed part should now fit in the build area.The design will utilize these Existing Components:
(4) LM8LUU Bearings
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing
(3) R6-2RS Ball Bearings
(4) Stepper Motors
(1) AnUbis Hot End assembly w/ Thermistor
(1) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nut
(1) Printrboard
(1) 12V x 40mm Fan
(1) Power supply
(1) Brass Feeder Nut
(1) Extruder Tension SpringPurchase Parts (these quantities include the reused parts):
(1) HAUHA8-4040E-W400-D400-H400 Aluminum Extrusion Kit MISUMI
(4) 8mm x 350mm Linear Rods
(2) 1602ZZ Bearing
(1) R1038-2RS Ball Bearing - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(6) R6-2RS Bearings
(2) GT2 Belt @ 2000mm - Open
(6) #10-24 - 1 1/4" Flat Head Machine Screw
(12) #10-24 Hex Nut
(1) 1/4-20 x 1/2 Machine Screw - Required for only one of the Extruder Options
(12) 1/4-20 x 3/4" Machine Screw/Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 1" Counter Sunk Screw
(12) 1/4-20 Jam Nuts
(2) 1/4-20 Hex Nut
(3) 3/8"-12 Acme Lead Screw Nuts
(29) M3x16 Machine Screws
(1) M3x25 Machine Screw
(4) M3x30 Cap Screws
(2) M3x50 Machine Screws
(2) M3x60 Machine Screws
(21) M3 Hex Nuts
(8) M4x16 Counter Sunk Machine Screws
(4) M4x30 Machine Screws
(4) M4 Hex Nuts
(8) GT2 Pulley 20Teeth 5mm Bore
(3) 3/8"-12 ACME threaded Rod @ 13" to 13 1/2" long
(1) 1/4" x 16" x 20" Aluminum/Plexiglass/Glass Sheet
(1) .090" to 1/8" x 12" x 12" Aluminum Sheet
(10-12) .36 x .042 x .69 free length Compression Springs
(1) Extruder Tension Spring (the spring from a standard Retractable Gel Pen may work)
Optional - (2) SCS8UU - Pillow Block Linear Bearing (May be used for the Gantry slide Blocks to replace two of the LM8LUU bearings I noted as reused from the OneUp/TwoUp. Note if the Pillow blocks are used you will need (8) additional M4x16 Machine Screws to attach the pillow block to the Gantry Blocks.
.
Uploaded the Bowden I'm going to possibly use.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310239
.
Uploaded the Direct Drive Versionhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:529455
.
Note they are a remix of StephanBuger's from his gantry redesign. Its uses all his part except the back cover which has been modified
.
Uploaded an Azteeg X3 Controler Box as wellhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:521187
.11/12/15
Found a minor issue on the Appendix in my instructions. One of the dimensions showed to the wrong point after printing. I had to select it and move it to get it to render properly. It should now be correct.
.11/9/15
So I've been trying to print a few calibration cubes but I'm currently running into an issue with the belt slipping on one of the pulleys for the X and Y axis causing an occasional shift diagonally across the bed. I'm going to reprint the gear plates as the version I'm using isn't the most current version on here so it doesn't have the counter boar for the nuts to sit in. This should stop the screws from slanting which I believe is causing the slipping I'm experiencing. other than that all movements are working well. I did see what looked like the bed wobbling while raising from all the way down to building position. I may need to put a guide or something at the motor as I believe the flexible coupler (since it only has two screws in it at 90 deg's) isn't sitting centered which is almost forcing the threaded rod to wobble as it turns (If someone knows of a way to correct wobble from a flexible coupler please comment in the comments so I can attempt a quick fix instead of adding/modifying parts). Once I get the slipping issue corrected I'll try printing a tall print and see what it does. I have an idea on how to correct the wobble but it will mean that 2-4 rods and linear bearings would be needed to counteract. I may be able to reuse the LM8LUU bearings but the rods from the OneUp may not work. The TwoUp has four 8mm x 290mm rods that aren't being used currently in this deisgn that could be reused while the OneUp only has two 8mm x 290mm rods that I may be able to reuse. I fear I may need four rods to correct and the remaining OnUp rods are only 200mm which if I add them will reduce the new build height of this printer. No matter a second pair of LM8LUU bearings would be needed for this fix but I may reduce them to just LM8UU bearings as these are smaller and you can order them from amazon (12 for $13.00).
.11/2/15
I updated the parts list as well as added the PDF for the assembly instructions. I've gotten everything to move and work (mostly). I have not made any prints worth showing. Will tighten down the settings and possibly upload the firmware here. There is always room for improvement so feel free to note any changes you've done that might improve on the design.
.4/25/16
Been playing with the Bowden setup and found that without the direct drive plate with the small piece of ptfe tubing for the E3D V6 hot end, the hot end itself tended to wiggle back and forth causing some error in the prints. I designed a plate that will need to be attached through the holes the direct drive would have attached through that has two M3x40 screws and 2 M3 Hex nuts that press down on the top of the hot end enough to secure it from wiggleing. I recommend finding some aluminum screws if you use the E3D hot ends (or E3D clones) to prevent from damaging the Aluminum they are made from. I have updated the instructions with this change. Added to the Part list pages and to Page 10 showing the Bowden Plate. I also added the Anubis filament guide to the downloadable files. I noticed it never attached. Be aware I haven't tested this Anubis guide so it may have issues that I'm not aware of. Use at your own risk
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