Thingiverse
Prusa i3 MK2 LED Lighting Mount by 3DExtruded
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
Stop!
There is a new and improved version -- print that instead :)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2667553
Update:
I uploaded this before finishing the installation. In hindsight, I might have done things differently with this. The tabs at the top of each arm are there for wire management -- they don't really do much for this purpose. I might have tried to make a path inside the model for this if I had given this more thought. Other wire management is also not awesome, currently, I'm using black tape on the back of the frame for most of it. But I am looking for a better option.
Additionally, the strip lighting is a poor choice for this. I would recommend getting a small LED panel instead. I was able to fit 10 3 light segments on each side (which only draws about 300ma of power by the way, for both sides combined). But soldering all of the connections was a real pain (maybe someone more adept with a soldering iron wouldn't see it as such). Additionally, there isn't a lot of room for the wires so you can kind of see them.
That said I am keeping mine setup this way. It does provide a nice amount of light and I am happy with my installation. But if anyone wants to remix this into something a little more polished that would be great.
I have included the Fusion 360 file for the left arm and the switch holder, the right arm was flipped using Tinkercad.
In any case, I hope this is helpful to some folks.
Parts Needed
LED Strip -- Here is what I used:https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1
Switch -- Here is one like I used:https://amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ38S6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1499352050&sr=8-13&keywords=12v+switch+red+led
Notes, etc...
I was using a LED holder, thing 2120195, but I recently added a cable chain to my MK2S and mostly from thing 2224025, and the light bar wasn't working right. So I decided to look for a replacement. I couldn't find anything that quite matched what I wanted, so I designed this.
I designed the left one in Fusion 360 and used Tinkercad to flip it for the right one.
I have noticed the left side does interfere -- very slightly -- with Z calibration. I'm not sure I could redesign it to prevent that -- it seems to just touch the bearing on X carriage. In my case, I am still able to complete the calibration but sometimes it pushes the LED bracket up slightly. I probably won't change anything for this at this point.
I have designed the switch mount to fit loosely above the power supply (i.e it will move up and down) but it may take a bit of pressure (it did with my PETG parts) to get it to mount on the frame. If it is too loose for your liking, being able to move it up or down, you can do as I did, which is to take a small zip tie and cut off about 20 mm or so off the end. You can slip this between the frame and the side of the switch bracket to act as a shim (see image). You could skip the switch -- but for me, the switch was nice because there are times I want to be printing but not have the lights on.
There is a new and improved version -- print that instead :)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2667553
Update:
I uploaded this before finishing the installation. In hindsight, I might have done things differently with this. The tabs at the top of each arm are there for wire management -- they don't really do much for this purpose. I might have tried to make a path inside the model for this if I had given this more thought. Other wire management is also not awesome, currently, I'm using black tape on the back of the frame for most of it. But I am looking for a better option.
Additionally, the strip lighting is a poor choice for this. I would recommend getting a small LED panel instead. I was able to fit 10 3 light segments on each side (which only draws about 300ma of power by the way, for both sides combined). But soldering all of the connections was a real pain (maybe someone more adept with a soldering iron wouldn't see it as such). Additionally, there isn't a lot of room for the wires so you can kind of see them.
That said I am keeping mine setup this way. It does provide a nice amount of light and I am happy with my installation. But if anyone wants to remix this into something a little more polished that would be great.
I have included the Fusion 360 file for the left arm and the switch holder, the right arm was flipped using Tinkercad.
In any case, I hope this is helpful to some folks.
Parts Needed
LED Strip -- Here is what I used:https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1
Switch -- Here is one like I used:https://amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ38S6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1499352050&sr=8-13&keywords=12v+switch+red+led
Notes, etc...
I was using a LED holder, thing 2120195, but I recently added a cable chain to my MK2S and mostly from thing 2224025, and the light bar wasn't working right. So I decided to look for a replacement. I couldn't find anything that quite matched what I wanted, so I designed this.
I designed the left one in Fusion 360 and used Tinkercad to flip it for the right one.
I have noticed the left side does interfere -- very slightly -- with Z calibration. I'm not sure I could redesign it to prevent that -- it seems to just touch the bearing on X carriage. In my case, I am still able to complete the calibration but sometimes it pushes the LED bracket up slightly. I probably won't change anything for this at this point.
I have designed the switch mount to fit loosely above the power supply (i.e it will move up and down) but it may take a bit of pressure (it did with my PETG parts) to get it to mount on the frame. If it is too loose for your liking, being able to move it up or down, you can do as I did, which is to take a small zip tie and cut off about 20 mm or so off the end. You can slip this between the frame and the side of the switch bracket to act as a shim (see image). You could skip the switch -- but for me, the switch was nice because there are times I want to be printing but not have the lights on.
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