Pergo VER 2 Robo3D R1 (and plus) true 370 mm Y rails upgrade by Pergo

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

You got a bed that is 15" long but can't print more than 9" !!! Not anymore!!!
With my mod, you can truly print on every square mm of the 15" x 10" glass.
But you say wait you can really do that because PLA and ABS will peal off the bed once you get past the heater. Right you are but with my 600 Watt bed heater upgrade,http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1300095
I can truly print a 360 mm long object that won't warp off the glass.
Some extras about this version:
This part is more accurate, durable, and a much better fit than the Version 1. This says a lot because I printed with my version 1's for about 2 years. This is a quality part with a lot of experience behind it. I really feel a difference with the smoothness of the glide down the full length of the Y axis. With the below print settings these ends are even lighter than the version 1's. This is due to the ribs I used on each of the glass supports. Another benefit is that the glass is now centered between the housing of the white case. I shifted the entire bed 6 mm to the right to accomplish this.
Print settings
Use 6 shells and a 12% infill and print at .31 mm layer height if you can.
Print the model as is for the Front piece and MIRROR the part Z axis for the back part.
Position part on it's back with the legs sicking up, then rotate to 45 degrees to make it fit on your bed.
Print the Front (part)...
Then to Print the Back (part)......
Cura:
Select Part, Mirror, Y, Print it
Matter Control Users:
Select EDIT, then Click Mirror Y, Print it
Simplify3D:
Menu item [Mesh][Mirror Mesh][Mirror Z] , Print it
Others:
Buy Simplify3D! :P really, its awesome!
Install:
Now you have the part and a mirrored version of the part printed.
Get a drill that is the closest you have to 8 mm but a tad less and drill out the spots where the 8 mm rods go. leave at least 4-5mm. Don't drill all the way through!
Lay your glass and the ends on the floor facing the floor and measure the rod length you need based on how far you drilled your 8mm into the ends holes. (I made them 7.9mm, a bit tight so you could get a tight fit when you install it) measure the length of rod you need based on how far you drilled. For me it was 20" long.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJFRIIQ
Cut 2 of the 8mm bars to a length of about 20 inches based on what you found above, It's better to be a bit long than short. you can cut again. I used a Dremel Sawmax with he metal cutter grinding wheel and wow cut like butter!
DON'T JAM THE 8MM RODS INTO THE ENDS YET!!! You might not get them out with the tight fit and then you will break the ends getting the rods out!
Put the rods in the Pillow blocks (the rectangles that hold the 8 mm bars on the printer)
do a test fit with the length of your rods.
Happy with test fit??
Now you can put the rods into the Mirrored BACK end you printed. you may have to use a hammer get them the seat all the way.
Then with the rods on still in the pillow blocks, put the printed FRONT end on the 8mm rods too. Make sure it glides easy.
1x 525mm (approx.) GT2 Belts : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FM5SC2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (comes with 1150mm of belt and 2 pulleys.)
If all is good, Now install the new GT2 belt, test fit in making sure your belt teeth are to the left as you look at the front of the printer. Put the belt ends into the retainer blocks from your old bed. make sure that your belt has a bit of slack. Best to be long and cut it down when you see how much you need. Tighten the front and back screws taking up the slack until you have good tension on the belt. Rock your bed back and forth making sure you have a good "glide". At this point your ready to see if your printer likes the new bed. Keep in mind that we did NOT flash the printer firmware yet still giving you a way back if something is not right.
Tell your printer to Auto-Home. If you like everything you see. Go ahead and flash the printer with either the firmware I provided that will specify 0-370mm Y max length. I also already have the Graphic Controller in this firmware. Here are the values I have in this version for max limits. Note there is a (pound) sign if from of each "define" line but the editor here hides it.
// Travel limits after homing
define X_MAX_POS 214
define X_MIN_POS 0
define Y_MAX_POS 370 <------ Max Y limit
define Y_MIN_POS 0
define Z_MAX_POS 201
define Z_MIN_POS 0
Comment here or Private message me if you need help.
-Pergo !
ps..
YES that is a piece of everyday, standard, window glass, from the Home Depot 1/16" glass (16 x 20") that I cut to 15" x 10" to use as a build surface on top of my Neoceram. I chipped my NeoCeram a few times not waiting for a part to cool down after a print. I've got no less than 100+ prints off this regular glass with no problems. The yellow print I did around the extreme outer perimeter was ABS and didn't stick too good but that's a 370 mm print. My heat only extends to the 355 mm mark. but I can stretch it to 360 with short objects.