Pergo Robo3D/R1/+ PVC Heat Chamber or Ver 3 by Pergo

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

I love the summer because everything prints easy!
But in winter, everything is tough to print. I keep my house the same temp all year round but just a little draft is enough to make a print job a failure.
This is version 3 (See my things for the other 2 versions)
This design is my favorite because it is a game changer for a cheap heat chamber.
It goes on and off the printer very easy. (If you have the filament spool uploaded).
It stores flat against a wall. (unlike my earlier versions, they were a pain to store)
It's sturdier an you can lift it up out of the way if needed.
Simpler to print, build, and repair if needed.
You can use any plastic that does not have holes in it. OR modify to use glass or whatever you dream up... The real heat of this is that it allows you to mount something to the sides of the printer.
Because my modded printer can print 372 mm on the Y axis,https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2216671
my bed is longer, so my 1/2" PVC sides were 920 mm long. this design allows it to work on EVERY Robo3D printer regardless of your bed length! Just pull your glass bed to it's max in the forward and the back positions and measure. This will be the length for the side PVC pipes. I recommend that you place a tic mark at the middle. This tic is really handy when putting the plastic on. To measure out the plastic to cut, I placed the assembled frame on the floor. Place the plastic over it and use a letter sheet of paper as a guide to leave about 15" all around the outside of the frame. (See pictures). Next cut ONE slit down the middle where the top of the printer will poke out.
Cut 8 pieces of tape (I used black electrical so you could see it). I made 4 "saddles" that connect the plastic together where the slit was cut. NOTE: I have the gum sides of the tape sticking to each other. there is NO tape connecting to the printer. this allows you to take the hood off for storage.
Get it all positioned and then drill pilot holes with a drill in the indented locations on the elbows. put the plastic on and screw the screws into the drilled out holes. (I didn't cut holes so you could choose your choice of screw size.
Once all the screws are in, cut a slit on each side of front of the printer so you can flip the front plastic open to access the printer.
All is printed solid except the Elbows can be 6 shells/layers and a 12-15% in-fill.
I used PLA for all parts. Nothing ever gets that warm enough even when printing ABS to be an issue.
After printing the parts and screwing them together, we need to make the side supports bow downward a bit (see the pictures) this makes the tips fit into the top slot of the Robo3D much better. To do this, you want to heat your bed up to 90c and place the assembled side on the bed as pictured. in about a min, the PLA will heat up and allow you to bow or bed it. See how I'm pushing the "U" (or horse shoe looking item) in to the 8 mm bar in the picture. this making the U lift up and bow heated PLA.
There are no top slot covers because they are already present in my thing #2155476.
If you are not using my spool holder you can take one EndCovers.STL from 2155476 and resize it like 240 mm (a guess on length) and drill a hole in it to allow filament to pass through. or print 2 EndCovers.STL each like 115 mm ?
If you use my version 2 spool holder shown herehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2155476
Print 2 each EndCovers.STL from 2155476 with the length resized to 48.5 mm and they will meet nicely with the Side Support.STL's printed for this heat chamber.
Enjoy. Let's see those Make pictures!!!