PERFORMANCE OPEN RC F1 CAR by Freerider4real

Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago

PERFORMANCE OPEN RC F1 BUILD GUIDE
Note: Building procedure similar to original open RC f1. Also check Daniel Noree´s Youtube videos.
I will leave some photos so that you can reference and make the build easier.
Hardware: We are using the same bearings, electronics and bolts, but you will have to buy a pinion gear from amazon in order to avoid gear slippage.
https://www.amazon.es/Crazepony-UK-3-175mm-Pinion-Brushed-Brushless/dp/B07CK5K25S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=pinion+gear+1.175+shaft&qid=1598955523&sr=8-1-fkmr0
First Step: (bottom plates)
Printer settings: 40-50 infill, 2-3 perimeters, 0.28 layer height for more speed.
Trimmed edges reduce weight while permitting a wide variety of tire dimensions.
Second step: (Rear axle assembly)
Printer settings: 100% infill, 3 perimeters, 0.2 layer height.
Rear axle now has hexagonal ends for the rims to fit better. You MUST SAND THE AXLES before inserting rims, otherwise the rim will become locked in the axle. Use lubricant.
Cut a m3x12 bolt so that it becomes roughly a 10 mm threaded rod. Use epoxy glue an insert it into the holes in the axle. I also recommend epoxy for fixing the bearing in position.
To insert the pinion gear coupler, heat the 15t pinion gear from amazon with a lighter. Then press fit the plastic part into the metal gear in a perpendicular fashion. The teeth should mesh with the plastic. Make sure the gear is aligned properly.
Third step: (Steering mechanism)
Printer settings: 100% infill , 3 perimeters, 0.2 layer height.
Now the axle spins freely, independent form the wheel. The upper and lower boms are bigger to fit wider hubs for the new mechanism. There´s no need for a second bolt in the steering push pin.
Use m3*10 bolts to assemble the hubs to the upper and lower piece, but leave a gap (don’t fully tighten for free spinning).
IMPORTANT, please print upper and lower bom pieces with the outside part of the A-arm touching the build plate, so it has a smooth finish. Use epoxy glue to secure the bearings to the hubs. Insert the axles an apply epoxy to the inner part of the bearings, so the axle gets fixed on position.
Also you will need to insert a 10 mm m3 threaded rod into the axle similar to the rear axle procedure.
Use M312 bolts to secure the hubs to the push pins, and another m312 for securing the push pin. Use a clip for connecting the servo to the push pin. The servo must be secured to the bottom plate with hot glue.
Ensure the horn is perpendicular to the ground, so that the leverage is similar when turning right or left.
Fourth step: (bodywork)
Printer settings: 30-40% infill , 2 perimeters, 0.28 layer height.
EXCEPT: cap, vane right, vane left – 100% infill and lid – 20% infill
Just make sure to put extra hairspray on the build plate so that the piece doesn’t move while printing. Use m3*8 bolts except for the nose attaching to the front wing.
Lower infill on lid because it doesn´t handle any stress.
Fifth step (wings):
Printer settings: 100 % infill , 2-3 perimeters, 0.28 layer height.
Attach the front wing flaps to the front wing with epoxy to the side emplates. Also do the same for the 2 rear wings.
Sixth step (wheels):
Printer settings: 100 % infill , 3 perimeters, 0.28 layer height.
TPU tires: 15% infill , 1 perimeter, 0.28 layer height.
Closed rims for maximizing aero performance. Attach m3 nuts to secure the wheels in the axles.
You may use an extra layer of bicycle inner camera for more grip over the TPU tire.
If you can´t print TPU, use some kind of foam to wrap the rim, creating a cushion effect.