PawxSpec Whoop | microquad racing fpv drone frame by Pawx

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

*Hard to find the FC now. Such a shame because it was light, 2.2grams had OSD and could handle 8mm motors (I used 6mm)
ATTENTION:
comment about your favorite ultra light weight whoop FC! And if enough people comment, I’ll remodel this.... The FC I used was a “JHF3 V1.0” with USB port on side. See pictures for how it looked. 20mmX28.75mm and weighs 2.2g. Hard to beat but hard to find :(
(These are not "affiliate" links, just shortened)
FC: http://bit.ly/2LPpdwO
Motors: http://bit.ly/2S7v1mq
Props: http://bit.ly/2NEP48G
FPV Cam: http://bit.ly/2NCEWgM
VTX (I dont use included Camera): http://bit.ly/2MKdmSb
Rx (rssi on chanel 8): http://bit.ly/2Ca8GQO
Battery: http://bit.ly/2LNWswP
UV resin fastener: https://amzn.to/2XH2R2S
Rubber bands: https://amzn.to/2PVbunw
Ticky Tape: https://amzn.to/2PrsY9Y
Heat Shrink (for motor protection): https://amzn.to/2C8mds7
Polycarbonate FDM material (Orange): http://bit.ly/2NajMcJ
Update:
New Motors (OMFG, so good): http://bit.ly/2OmmpFS
TIPS to building/printing my quad at my specification:
->Fasten FC with UV resin in parts list above: rigidity of the quad comes from the fastened FC at the corners using the UV resin as shown in the picture. Out of the hundreds of crashes I've had, I have never damaged the FC because I used it to increase rigidity. ...It is easy to remove the FC too for when you need to swap frames.)
->Designed for 6MM brushed motors:
Newbeedrone GOLD motors are the best. Powerful and last a long time. Depending on your printer accuracy, you may need to file the holes in the frame for the motors to fit. Just don't file too much, the motors are meant to be pressed fit into those holes - no glue or UV resin needed. I have never had an issue with motors coming off, just make sure they are snugged. Also, I shorten and solder the motor wires to the FC to save every gram. You don't have to do the same but you are welcomed to do so if you want it exactly to my specification.
Yes, it's really slim... Want durability? Print it in Polycarbonate - I designed it around the use of PC :)
PLA may be too brittle for this frame.. try PETG or ABS. PC is the best though. and PETG is a bit brittle but not as much as PLA. I'm going to try PCTPE, i will let you guys know how that goes.
Follow me on Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/pawx_fpv/
->FPV Camera / VTX: I do not use the included fpv camera of the TX01s. i use the one in the link above (1000tvl). i desolder the mic of the camera and trim the wires so that i connect the + and - leads to the same pads as the Rx. I also trim the wires of the VTX and direct solder to the batterly pads. so the only 3 wires you will have coming out of the vtx is the thicker +,- leads to power the VTX and yellow video IN. there is just enough wire for any component to reach its pad. the VTX sits on top of the FC with just enought sticky foam tape in between holding it down. you can use rubber band over the vtx like shown in the pictures.
->RX: the frsky xm is able to provide rssi thorough channel 8 using betaflight. theres lots of youtube vids about this. the receiver also sits on top of the FC with just enought sticky foam tape in between to hold it down. you can also put ruber band so that it keeps the receiver snugged as shown in the pictures.
->the short lateral "T" struts that poke out of the FC housing are for the rubberbands. use two bands. one for the underslung battery, another for keeping the VTX and RX snugged (shown in pictures)
->SECRET to making the frame super light: I use Simplify3D. Message me if you would like the factory file. essentially, the middle layers are thinner than the rest by reducing the extrusion multiplier. coast at the end at .2mm distance. i print at .2mm height using a .4 mm nozzle (.48 mm width).
Extrusion mutilplier (separate Simplify3D processes)
Layer 1: 1 (100%)
Layers 2 to 10: .75 (75%)
Layers 11 to 17 .62 (62%)
Layers 18 to end .73 (73%)
->Polycarbonate is tricky to print with. i use glass bed with lots of ABS slury. Printer is covered and with bed at 90 degC. and fan off. i use the recommended extruder temp by material manufacturer and at 40mm/s.
->to add extra rigidity and durablility to the motor sturts or briding struts connecting the ducts at the perimiters, i sometimes use some of the UV resin at the connection points where stresses are high. when you break it, you'll know what i mean lol
again, you dont have to print it like this, you can print and build your own quad how ever you like. I'm just telling you how I like to print my frame so that its 2.3 grams and strong. :)
ENJOY!!
https://youtu.be/WAymjJQeIkQ