Thingiverse
Oculus Quest 2 MegaPro Headband (totally not an Elite Strap knockoff!) by Anarasha
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago
Obviously this is an Elite Strap knockoff :p
This uses one part from the original strap, but it will not be damaged so you can revert relatively easily if you dislike it. You can also add your own velcro instead if you prefer, but I wanted this to be possible to make with as few extra pieces of hardware as possible
V4 does exist and can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671658
It is more difficult to make but VASTLY superior.
I only suggest printing the one you're on now if you are inexperienced 3D printing advanced materials or are unable to print higher temp materials.
Edit 3
Added spring "platforms" to the backbrace so you can add springs that will press against the skull cap to help reduce wiggling. Optional but suggested.
Rounded the edges of the skull cup that face inwards. This should prevent sharp edges so there is no need to post sand for comfort
Added 3 5x1mm holes at the bottom of the skull cup to fit pretty much any size ziptie. This lets you ziptie a counterweight, a power bank or both to the bottom of your skull cup. Counterweights are optional but HIGHLY suggested. If you have to pick between the default strap with a counterweight or this design without one, the default with counterweight will win. That's how much a counterweight matters. Of course, this design with a counterweight will win against the default.
Affected parts now marked V2. If you already printed the old parts, you don't need to reprint as all of these changes are just quality of life. The first version works just fine
Hint: You can pad the inside skull cup with something that's easy to clean(like leather or, if you're vegan/against leather, high quality fake leather).
Edit 2
Not actually a change to the design. But no matter how well this cups the head and how well the straps are adjusted, I strongly suggest adding a counterweight. It keeps the headset from sliding out of place and unloads some of the weight put on your face.
Acceptable counter weights include battery packs, steel chunks, a couple of fishing weights and pretty much anything dry you can ziptie or duct tape on here. I have no immediate plans of adding a mount for a counterweight because everyone will find differently shaped ones
Edit:
Added an adjustable version of the speaker caps and a locking buckle
I wasn't quite satisfied with the existing Elite Strap DIY models on here as I wasn't able to find one with a turnable knob to adjust elastic band tension, so I went and made one myself :D
Obviously the real Elite Strap is better than this as it's made out of tough plastic by actual engineers, but on the flipside, this only costs about 3.20€ plus whatever you pay for the elastic bands you glue onto the speaker caps and if you decide to add the optional stabilising bolts.
Material list:
Roughly 160 grams of filament
The original top strop(the one with the velcro that goes over the top of your head). This is led through the slot in the skull cup and then closed with a safety pin or similar. You can sew it if you want a more permanent close but obviously that is invasive
Some strong superglue or similar(to glue the elastic bands on the speaker caps)
30mm thick elastic band(any sewing store should carry this, 1m should be more than enough)
An Oculus Quest 2 to mount this on
OPTIONAL but almost esssential: A counterweight to put on the bottom of the skull cup. The counterweight helps balance out the headset, reducing the amount of pressure added to your face. It's like in blademaking. If you have seen the first Pirates of the Caribbean, remember the swords that Will Turner forges, how he can balance them on his finger right by the handle - that's the same concept you do with the headset. It should distribute some of the weight pressure to push down on your head due to balance instead of pushing down on your face, giving you a headache. The counterweight may not be 500g or above as that is the weight of the headset. I am using a counterweight at around 300g currently, but try different weights until you find what works for you.
OPTIONAL but highly recommended: 2x M5 bolts to stabilise the back brace so it doesn't wobble
OPTIONAL but highly recommended: 2x springs with an ID of 5mm or more to put betweeen the back brace and skull cup to further help wobbling
Assembly instructions:
Print all the parts, remove supports and make sure the screw tuns perfectly in all the threads(this takes a bit of work)
Glue elastic bands on the printed speaker caps(do this now to give the glue time to dry while you work, glue a piece that's too long and adjust later) OR pull the strap through anchor 1, buckle, then anchor 2 if you printed the adjustable version
Remove the regular strap by gently lifting the speaker caps off the speakers(look up mounting videos for the Elite Strap if you're in doubt, it works the same way)
Take the topmost strop with the velcro off the stock strap(take it out of the headset to make it easier, gently pull the closed loop at the end over the plastic adjusters, then pull it over the speaker cap)
Put the topmost strap in the skull cup, put a safety needle or similar on it to keep it on the skull cup
Pull the elastic bands on the speaker caps through the slits on the back brace
Put the screw base into the slot in the skull cup, screw the large bolt through the back brace thread and then screw it into the screw base. Make sure the back brace is all the way released so the skull cup and back brace rest against each other as much as they can
OPTIONAL: Put in the stabilising bolts through the back brace into the skull cup
OPTIONAL: Put a spring in along with the stabilising bolt
Put the speaker caps on the speakers so the whole strap is attached
Open the top strap velcro, rest the VR headset on your face and close the velcro in the right position
Pull the elastic bands through the slits until they're firmly tight-ish and the skull cup is centered where it needs to be
OPTIONAL but almost essential for a good comfort fit: Add a counterweight to the bottom part of the skull cup. Less than 500g
Make a mark on the elastic bands to note where you need to close it, take the headset off, take the speaker caps to dismount the strap, then either sew or do whatever you are gonna do to close the elastic bands to hold them in place
Put the strap back on and test the fit. If it fits, you're done!
This uses one part from the original strap, but it will not be damaged so you can revert relatively easily if you dislike it. You can also add your own velcro instead if you prefer, but I wanted this to be possible to make with as few extra pieces of hardware as possible
V4 does exist and can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671658
It is more difficult to make but VASTLY superior.
I only suggest printing the one you're on now if you are inexperienced 3D printing advanced materials or are unable to print higher temp materials.
Edit 3
Added spring "platforms" to the backbrace so you can add springs that will press against the skull cap to help reduce wiggling. Optional but suggested.
Rounded the edges of the skull cup that face inwards. This should prevent sharp edges so there is no need to post sand for comfort
Added 3 5x1mm holes at the bottom of the skull cup to fit pretty much any size ziptie. This lets you ziptie a counterweight, a power bank or both to the bottom of your skull cup. Counterweights are optional but HIGHLY suggested. If you have to pick between the default strap with a counterweight or this design without one, the default with counterweight will win. That's how much a counterweight matters. Of course, this design with a counterweight will win against the default.
Affected parts now marked V2. If you already printed the old parts, you don't need to reprint as all of these changes are just quality of life. The first version works just fine
Hint: You can pad the inside skull cup with something that's easy to clean(like leather or, if you're vegan/against leather, high quality fake leather).
Edit 2
Not actually a change to the design. But no matter how well this cups the head and how well the straps are adjusted, I strongly suggest adding a counterweight. It keeps the headset from sliding out of place and unloads some of the weight put on your face.
Acceptable counter weights include battery packs, steel chunks, a couple of fishing weights and pretty much anything dry you can ziptie or duct tape on here. I have no immediate plans of adding a mount for a counterweight because everyone will find differently shaped ones
Edit:
Added an adjustable version of the speaker caps and a locking buckle
I wasn't quite satisfied with the existing Elite Strap DIY models on here as I wasn't able to find one with a turnable knob to adjust elastic band tension, so I went and made one myself :D
Obviously the real Elite Strap is better than this as it's made out of tough plastic by actual engineers, but on the flipside, this only costs about 3.20€ plus whatever you pay for the elastic bands you glue onto the speaker caps and if you decide to add the optional stabilising bolts.
Material list:
Roughly 160 grams of filament
The original top strop(the one with the velcro that goes over the top of your head). This is led through the slot in the skull cup and then closed with a safety pin or similar. You can sew it if you want a more permanent close but obviously that is invasive
Some strong superglue or similar(to glue the elastic bands on the speaker caps)
30mm thick elastic band(any sewing store should carry this, 1m should be more than enough)
An Oculus Quest 2 to mount this on
OPTIONAL but almost esssential: A counterweight to put on the bottom of the skull cup. The counterweight helps balance out the headset, reducing the amount of pressure added to your face. It's like in blademaking. If you have seen the first Pirates of the Caribbean, remember the swords that Will Turner forges, how he can balance them on his finger right by the handle - that's the same concept you do with the headset. It should distribute some of the weight pressure to push down on your head due to balance instead of pushing down on your face, giving you a headache. The counterweight may not be 500g or above as that is the weight of the headset. I am using a counterweight at around 300g currently, but try different weights until you find what works for you.
OPTIONAL but highly recommended: 2x M5 bolts to stabilise the back brace so it doesn't wobble
OPTIONAL but highly recommended: 2x springs with an ID of 5mm or more to put betweeen the back brace and skull cup to further help wobbling
Assembly instructions:
Print all the parts, remove supports and make sure the screw tuns perfectly in all the threads(this takes a bit of work)
Glue elastic bands on the printed speaker caps(do this now to give the glue time to dry while you work, glue a piece that's too long and adjust later) OR pull the strap through anchor 1, buckle, then anchor 2 if you printed the adjustable version
Remove the regular strap by gently lifting the speaker caps off the speakers(look up mounting videos for the Elite Strap if you're in doubt, it works the same way)
Take the topmost strop with the velcro off the stock strap(take it out of the headset to make it easier, gently pull the closed loop at the end over the plastic adjusters, then pull it over the speaker cap)
Put the topmost strap in the skull cup, put a safety needle or similar on it to keep it on the skull cup
Pull the elastic bands on the speaker caps through the slits on the back brace
Put the screw base into the slot in the skull cup, screw the large bolt through the back brace thread and then screw it into the screw base. Make sure the back brace is all the way released so the skull cup and back brace rest against each other as much as they can
OPTIONAL: Put in the stabilising bolts through the back brace into the skull cup
OPTIONAL: Put a spring in along with the stabilising bolt
Put the speaker caps on the speakers so the whole strap is attached
Open the top strap velcro, rest the VR headset on your face and close the velcro in the right position
Pull the elastic bands through the slits until they're firmly tight-ish and the skull cup is centered where it needs to be
OPTIONAL but almost essential for a good comfort fit: Add a counterweight to the bottom part of the skull cup. Less than 500g
Make a mark on the elastic bands to note where you need to close it, take the headset off, take the speaker caps to dismount the strap, then either sew or do whatever you are gonna do to close the elastic bands to hold them in place
Put the strap back on and test the fit. If it fits, you're done!
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turbosquid
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Smilodon 2 Pose 2
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
$20
Barrel Barricade 2-2
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
$6
Wall Trophy (2) (2)
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
free
Tire label 2 of 2
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
3ddd
$1
Кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
...кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
3ddd
кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
нормальное качество
формат 3ds max
без текстур
3ddd
free
Кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
...кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
3ddd
кровать, 2 тумбочки, 2 светильника
нормальное качество
формат 3ds max
без текстур