Thingiverse
Navigation Aid
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 3 months ago
Inogon leading mark
This project was inspired by this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=d99_h30swtM&feature=emb_logo
Video demonstration of this model: https://youtu.be/mjXCrSyovAk
I designed this to allow me to back into my garage and repeatable get my car in the same position. I suppose I could have used a tennis ball hanging on a string, but it was more fun to make this.
To make this, you will need a light table. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBA8ZX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you use a different one, you will have to adjust the dimensions in the spreadsheet of the FreeCAD design. There is a drawback to the light table I selected, it does not turn on when power is applied, you must apply power and then hit the power switch. I was unable to find any light table that would automatically light up when power is applied.
Be aware that if you adjust ANYTHING in the FreeCAD design, many of the chamfers will jump to random edges, and you will have to move them back to the correct edges. The chamfers are there to deal with the elephant foot distortion that my printer produces.
You will need an M3 tap to thread the holes.
You will need a printer (inkjet or laser) and transparency paper. I have an inkjet and used this paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07422PH4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This paper is translucent rather than clear, but as far as I can tell, there is no clear paper for inkjets.
The patterns for the pages are in the .svg file. This file should be opened with InkScape. There are two layers in this drawing Each should be enabled and printed on separate sheets of transparency. (one has slightly more lines per unit of measure than the other).
One sheet needs to be folded in the long dimension and fits in the angled grove of the side pieces.
I made the lines slightly larger than the gaps between them to make the width of the dark bars to appear closer to the width of the light bars in the interference pattern.
You will need two copies of each part except the HangerBar and the Back_Lower_Strut. For these two, you will only need one of each.
Assemble the frame for the transparencies leaving off one of the complicated edges Slide the transparencies into their respective slots then screw on the remaining complicated edge. There is a hole near the fold in the complicated edges. This is to allow a small diameter string to be used to keep the peaks of the complicated edges together to keep the folded transparency in its groove.
Assemble the mount onto the light table. Once this is done, the hooks can be pulled away from the light table to allow the transparency frame to be slipped under them and hold it to the light table.
This project was inspired by this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=d99_h30swtM&feature=emb_logo
Video demonstration of this model: https://youtu.be/mjXCrSyovAk
I designed this to allow me to back into my garage and repeatable get my car in the same position. I suppose I could have used a tennis ball hanging on a string, but it was more fun to make this.
To make this, you will need a light table. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBA8ZX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you use a different one, you will have to adjust the dimensions in the spreadsheet of the FreeCAD design. There is a drawback to the light table I selected, it does not turn on when power is applied, you must apply power and then hit the power switch. I was unable to find any light table that would automatically light up when power is applied.
Be aware that if you adjust ANYTHING in the FreeCAD design, many of the chamfers will jump to random edges, and you will have to move them back to the correct edges. The chamfers are there to deal with the elephant foot distortion that my printer produces.
You will need an M3 tap to thread the holes.
You will need a printer (inkjet or laser) and transparency paper. I have an inkjet and used this paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07422PH4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This paper is translucent rather than clear, but as far as I can tell, there is no clear paper for inkjets.
The patterns for the pages are in the .svg file. This file should be opened with InkScape. There are two layers in this drawing Each should be enabled and printed on separate sheets of transparency. (one has slightly more lines per unit of measure than the other).
One sheet needs to be folded in the long dimension and fits in the angled grove of the side pieces.
I made the lines slightly larger than the gaps between them to make the width of the dark bars to appear closer to the width of the light bars in the interference pattern.
You will need two copies of each part except the HangerBar and the Back_Lower_Strut. For these two, you will only need one of each.
Assemble the frame for the transparencies leaving off one of the complicated edges Slide the transparencies into their respective slots then screw on the remaining complicated edge. There is a hole near the fold in the complicated edges. This is to allow a small diameter string to be used to keep the peaks of the complicated edges together to keep the folded transparency in its groove.
Assemble the mount onto the light table. Once this is done, the hooks can be pulled away from the light table to allow the transparency frame to be slipped under them and hold it to the light table.
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