Naked Insta360 Go project by Athe

Last crawled date: 3 years, 5 months ago

Update 2: Shorted the board in an experiment to power it from the lipo pad on the top right of the board. Now it's dead so no more updates. Feel free to pick it up and continue. DM me if you have any questions.
Update: I have added the next iteration where the camera is held in the correct orientation. Also the top is slimmer so you have to get rid of the vibration motor. It's also lighter
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I'm not taking responsibility if you ruin your go or fc.
This is a naked insta360 go project. It makes the 18.3g Go weigh only 11g (10.5 without the motor). This is a work in progress. I'll keep making it lighter without sacrificing too much protection.
Hardware you'll need:
3D printer (duh)
Heat gun
Prying tool
small phillips screwdriver (the one you use for whoops)
4x1.2mm phillips screws (the ones you use for whoops)
2 and 3 pin connector (anything you have, the lighter the better)
Steps
Print the model.
Decase your Go as shown in this video (use plenty of heat):https://youtu.be/rVk-Yn_sViA?t=387
Take the top off the docking station:https://youtu.be/rVk-Yn_sViA?t=32
Solder the 2 and 3 pin connectors on the pins on both the docking station and the go using the pictures and diagram above. (Power and ground on the side pins, data on the middle 3) Be sure not to reverse polarity and everything goes where it should.
(Alternatively you can feed 5v into the pad to the top right of the lipo connector and use a ground from the motor. Note that when I attempted this, my board shorted and died and the by the time I disconnected the battery, the connector got so hot it burned my finger. It did work for others, I probably messed up the soldering)
Check if data transfer works. If it doesn't, try downgrading the firmware. If it still doesn't work reattach the original battery for file transfer (recording works without it)
(Note: the ribbon cable connector wears out after a little while. I suggest you carefully take the ribbon cable and its base off the lipo terminals and solder your own connector to it. Use it to power the Go during flight if you wish)
If it still doesn't work, check your soldering and pins.
Remove the vibration motor from the board and move it to the center of the board (or remove it completely)
Put the original plastic button in the bottom of my case.
Put in the board of the Go and fix it with the original screws
Test the button. If you hear it click it's fine, if you don't, move the board so it's aligned better. Retest until the button works.
Put the camera/lens assembly in the hole in the top of the case. (it should be a tight fit, you might need to file a bit just make sure its held in tight)
Put the top of the case on the bottom (arrange the antenna and the ribbon cable, motor and led component so it all fits inside)
Screw the four 1.2mm whoop screws in the corners.
Solder a 2 pin connector on the fc's 5v pad and the battery ground
Now everything should work, you have a lighter Go that will never run out of power while in the air.
Special thanks to the Naked Cinewhoop Community (https://www.facebook.com/groups/NAKEDCINEWHOOP)
including Jerome Detmers, Richard Papp and Nathan Burrows
I'm sure we will be seeing great stuff from them too!