MyRCCar 1/10 Truggy Build for FJ Cruiser Body by dlb5

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This is the set of MyRCCar parts needed to build something like a 1/10 Truggy to use 3D printed FJ Cruiser Body, so you could expect something similar to the rc car in the photos.
From now on, if you are interested in the files of this publication, please contact me through MyMiniFactory
The selected parts will make a 270 mm wheelbase car with a width of about 300 mm from outside of one wheel to the outside of the other wheel of the axle when using Truggy wheels. This wheels use to be about 110mm in diameter and 50mm width.
Also caster is important to fit the FJ Cruiser body with the pre-made body holders. You must build a front axle with 6º caster and a rear one with 0º caster. This way you can expect the same position of the body relative to the chassis, so you will have all the clearance needed for the truggy wheels.
The goal of this proyect is to build a hobby-level car, not a toy at all. You can expect a very good behavour from the car if you don't crash it continuously. Plastic is plastic. You can do thicker parts but never expect a similar resistance like the one of metal parts with the same size.
I tryed to size car parts so their resistance is good enough for "light-bashing" (not big jumps) or maybe racing if your skills are good enough to avoid certain class of impacts. Anyway, if you would like to race against similar not 3d printed rc cars i'm sure you won't need the extra weight of the FJ Cruiser Body or the higher gravity center.
With a sensored brushless motor and esc you can use it in a similar way to a crawler, really slow motion and good torque but also run at 50-60 Km/h with a 4000kv brushless motor and the right pinion.
In the end... you will have to buy some parts, maybe more than you initially expect. Anyway MyRCCar has been designed to use as less as possible sourced parts, but knowing the most important ones must be bought to have a hobby-level RC car.
MyRCCar offers on its own a good quantity of customization possibilities, as choosing wheelbase, width, caster, camber, "toe-ing", centered or "sided" central diff, but most important of all is that it's designed to fit good but cheap and easy to find sourced parts.
Update: Find The parts related to suspension system like lower and upper arms, c-hubs, steering blocks and rear fixed blocks in the Suspension System Publication. You can choose there the proper ones for your CVDs, they have been recently updated.
But market changes, good cheap sourced parts will be others in the future probably, so... expected lifetime for your MyRCCar?¿? As plastic is weaker than metal, you will probably break plastic parts you can print again. Anyway, if this "good-cheap" sourced parts change in the future, MyRCCar can change as well.
If there is enough interest in the project i'll be delighted to do part of this future work, but I hope the community also contributes through new and better designs and remixes. This would be the key of the question, the way you can do MyRCCar yours.
WHAT IS NEEDED?¿?
Are you decided to enter hobby-level?¿? Remember you can buy a complete car and forget about all this. This is about making your RC car YOURS and unique if you want.
Why i say this of hobby-level?¿? Because the electric components you have to buy are hobby-level, so expect to spend some bucks.
List of mechanical sourced parts
2x HSP 02024 (FR Differentials)
4x HSP 166015 (CVDs). You can use alternatively HSP 106015 changing Steering Block Type
12x 5x10x4 bearings (for wheels, F/R Diff. pinions and steering system)
8x 10x15x4 bearings (for wheels and for F/R diffs if they come without them)
1x Center Differential (You must choose one of the next):
HSP 02024 (you will need the converter to use this one and 2 extra 10x15x4 bearings)
SST09304 (i think this 1/8 Mod1 T46 diff is the best of the three, but mine came without the needed 12x18x5mm bearings)
Trooper Diff from Hobbyking (in plastic or metal version Mod1 44T)

4x Truggy wheels
4x 80 to 100 mm shocks (they can be big bore ones)
4x Wheel Hex (they should come with the 2x10mm pin)
2x HSP adecuated dogbone (for central transmission if you don't want to make them yourself)
6x Ball Joint 5mm head with M3 screw if you don't want to buy Adjustable Steering Pins and for servo arm. I plan to make an adjustable "link" to use in uplinks of suspension and also in steering pins and i think they would use this ball joints.
It would be ideal that you could buy all this things in the same store. I think i have seen some sellers in alixpress wich would send to spain in 18 days. Maybe some other seller is quick to deliver to your country.
An alternative way to get this parts is what i did. I bought a car kit wich included many of them. It was a quanum vandal, but i think now is discontinued, so you should look for another cheap kit wich would include al less the 02024 or similar F/R diffs, the bearings, the shocks, and maybe some wheels if you choose a truggy o monster. I got Buggy wheels with my vandal. I paid about 60€ for the kit and including the electronics in hobbyking i paid about 170€ i think. Also this way i had the opportunity to test the vandal so i could judge MyRCCar in comparison with it.
List of electrical sourced parts
1x 2 Channel Radio and reciever
1x Aprox. 10Kg standard size servo
1x Brushed or brushless motor (big price difference)
1x Electronic Speed Controller (ESC), must match the motor
1x 2S LiPo Battery (Max. Size 150x50x28)
1x LiPo Battery Charger
1x Battery connector adaptor (maybe you need one, think it twice)
1x Led light kit (optional)
1x Double sided tape (recommended)
If you are not sure if "hobby-level" is for you but you want to give it a try, buy a cheap brushed motor and a brushed ESC. With this components, a cheap servo,a 2200mAh battery and a cheap radio and charger you can expect to pay around 42€ in hobbyking.
If, in the other side, you feel confortable about spending some extra bucks in a good electronic kit (it will also be usefull for a not 3D printed rc car), then you can also buy a decent brushless motor (sensored or not) and a matching ESC, a 5000mah, a stronger servo an better charger and radio for about 100€ in Hobbyking too...
The max speed of the car will be related to the tyres you choose, the center differencial and pinion you select but also to the motor max revolutions. This is known as the KV parameter in brushless motors. As a start point for calculations i recommend a motor from 3000 to 4000 KV if you want to run a little fast, and less if you plan to "crawl". Also just changing the pinion you change the gear reduction general ratio. If you are interested in the max speed calculations you can visit RC-Calculations or we can discuse it in the related MyRCCar Group
Other Hardware needed
5 mm Piano Wire to make diff pinion shafts (2x 27mm) and to make central transmission dogbones (2x __mm, depends of your center diff)
3 mm Piano Wire for the pins of the lower arms (4x 54mm and 4x 33mm) and pins of dogbones (4x 12mm)
Multi-rotary tool as a dremel (to cut, sand and drill piano wires and maybe your hand)
Soldering iron if you have to make some magic with electronics
Good little allen tools for M3 screws (1.5, 2 and 2.5 mm allen) if you plan to use hex screws or maybe a good philips screwdriver
SCREWS:
Countersunk:
2x M3 8mm
8x M3 10mm
12x M3 12mm
56x M3 16mm
5x M3 30mm

Better if Hex Socket Head:
2x M3 8mm
4x M3 12mm
20x M3 16mm
4x M3 20mm

Nuts:
10x M3
4x M4


I plan to publish soon "FJ Cruiser body for MyRCCar" including the new adaptors to make it fit this car (done) and i'll try to be as exact with the "needs" so maybe you want to wait a little to "make your bussiness"...
I really hope you enjoy this "thing" :)
Added 11/02/2018
Now you can also print the sides of the chassis into two pieces instead of six (the 2 front, 2 rear and 2 links). I did it this way because i could print it in my 200x200 hotbed for this chassis size and with the hope of doing chassis stronger. Look for the parts at the end of the list.