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![Matcha59 | An angled handwired Planck/Preonic type ortholinear keyboard by rykb](/previews/9228305.jpg)
Matcha59 | An angled handwired Planck/Preonic type ortholinear keyboard by rykb
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
This is a hand-wired Planck/Preonic alternative with rotary encoder in the center and a 4 degree incline! Info on wiring and firmware is included in the Github repository below.
[the repo will be linked here soon when it is ready]
The board in the photos is shown with Gateron yellow switches, a Vintage Forged nickel guitar knob, and either NP Crayon or YMDK ZDA Matcha keycaps. Sound deadening foam is highly recommended though it stiffens typing feel considerably. The board is handwired meaning that it does not use a pcb and thus is NOT compatible with the Preonic or Planck. Intermediate soldering skills are required.
Typing feel is bouncy toward the center of the board though it gets stiff toward the edges. Switch fit came out loose enough in my print that I have to hold them in place with a spudger while I pull the caps so as not to damage the wiring. Microcontroller reset button location varies by model so I drilled a hole where it would fit the unit I used. I highly recommend modelling in a hole for your MCU (you can do this in your browser on Tinkercad.com) or drilling it in manually. I also HIGHLY recommend including one in your keymap.
[the repo will be linked here soon when it is ready]
The board in the photos is shown with Gateron yellow switches, a Vintage Forged nickel guitar knob, and either NP Crayon or YMDK ZDA Matcha keycaps. Sound deadening foam is highly recommended though it stiffens typing feel considerably. The board is handwired meaning that it does not use a pcb and thus is NOT compatible with the Preonic or Planck. Intermediate soldering skills are required.
Typing feel is bouncy toward the center of the board though it gets stiff toward the edges. Switch fit came out loose enough in my print that I have to hold them in place with a spudger while I pull the caps so as not to damage the wiring. Microcontroller reset button location varies by model so I drilled a hole where it would fit the unit I used. I highly recommend modelling in a hole for your MCU (you can do this in your browser on Tinkercad.com) or drilling it in manually. I also HIGHLY recommend including one in your keymap.
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