Thingiverse
Makergear M2 Drawing Attachment (The Scribbler) by sthone
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
This is a drawing attachment for the Makergear M2 Printer.
First the Disclaimer........
This is a work in progress (I am uploading this per request.)
This attachment is NOT for the average user. It requires advanced knowledge of the M2 printer such as moving and calibrating your Z-stop. It also requires advanced g-code editing and slicer setting to make work...
If you are not an advanced printer user and don't know what your doing please do not try to use this... I make no guarantees or warranties as to the accuracy or completeness of, or results to be obtained from accessing and using the Information herein.
With all that being said........
Videos are speed up 4X-6Xhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9RF_GtY0rEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-wAcamFsb4
Hardware Required = Five M3x8 screws
The Filament mount is removed and swapped with the scribbler attachment.
I don't have time to write up full instructions but some tidbits for now....
Line drawing were taking from google and converted to an SVG and then imported into tinkercad to convert to a STL (see http://3dprinting.com.au/converting-images-into-3d-models/)
There are two mount inserts one fits a standard sharpie and one for a fine tip sharpie. (Sanding might be required to fit the markers.) To use the markers I move (slide up) my entire z-stop bracket and switch to keep the hotend away from the bed.
To set the marker height I start the drawing and then hit stop (in program) while holding the z-stop knob from moving to keep the bed at the right height. I then insert the marker in the mount until it hits the paper and lock the insert in place with the front M3 screw.
(I use Simplify3d) To get the printer to start you need to add the M302 command to the starting scrip. I remove a lot of the commands in the starting scrip (whip commands, purge, ect) I also add around 5mm of Retraction Vertical Lift (extruder tab) so it picks up the drawing tool when moving.
The pen insert uses a cartridge and spring from a G2 gel pen. The spring is inserted in first then the pen cartridge. (opposite of how it is in the pen) This makes it spring loaded so it will draw on the paper better. (the 5mm of Retraction Vertical Lift is important to have if your printer starts off the build plate or the pen will hit the build surface on the first move.)
I set the layer height .1 and then the stop printing height the same (advance tab) so it only draws one layer, the top and bottom layers are set to 0 and outline shell to 1. I play around with the extrusion multiplier and preview window until a get a single line for everything (depends on the file used) I use 100% infill if I want to color in between the lines. (the skull pictures shows with and with out infill.)
That's all I have time/motivation for right now......
First the Disclaimer........
This is a work in progress (I am uploading this per request.)
This attachment is NOT for the average user. It requires advanced knowledge of the M2 printer such as moving and calibrating your Z-stop. It also requires advanced g-code editing and slicer setting to make work...
If you are not an advanced printer user and don't know what your doing please do not try to use this... I make no guarantees or warranties as to the accuracy or completeness of, or results to be obtained from accessing and using the Information herein.
With all that being said........
Videos are speed up 4X-6Xhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9RF_GtY0rEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-wAcamFsb4
Hardware Required = Five M3x8 screws
The Filament mount is removed and swapped with the scribbler attachment.
I don't have time to write up full instructions but some tidbits for now....
Line drawing were taking from google and converted to an SVG and then imported into tinkercad to convert to a STL (see http://3dprinting.com.au/converting-images-into-3d-models/)
There are two mount inserts one fits a standard sharpie and one for a fine tip sharpie. (Sanding might be required to fit the markers.) To use the markers I move (slide up) my entire z-stop bracket and switch to keep the hotend away from the bed.
To set the marker height I start the drawing and then hit stop (in program) while holding the z-stop knob from moving to keep the bed at the right height. I then insert the marker in the mount until it hits the paper and lock the insert in place with the front M3 screw.
(I use Simplify3d) To get the printer to start you need to add the M302 command to the starting scrip. I remove a lot of the commands in the starting scrip (whip commands, purge, ect) I also add around 5mm of Retraction Vertical Lift (extruder tab) so it picks up the drawing tool when moving.
The pen insert uses a cartridge and spring from a G2 gel pen. The spring is inserted in first then the pen cartridge. (opposite of how it is in the pen) This makes it spring loaded so it will draw on the paper better. (the 5mm of Retraction Vertical Lift is important to have if your printer starts off the build plate or the pen will hit the build surface on the first move.)
I set the layer height .1 and then the stop printing height the same (advance tab) so it only draws one layer, the top and bottom layers are set to 0 and outline shell to 1. I play around with the extrusion multiplier and preview window until a get a single line for everything (depends on the file used) I use 100% infill if I want to color in between the lines. (the skull pictures shows with and with out infill.)
That's all I have time/motivation for right now......
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