Thingiverse
LCD + Hyperpixel 4" touchscreen cover for Prusa MK3/S/+ by puckpuck
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago
LCD cover that works with the awesome Hyperpixel 4" touchscreen.
No fitment issues from other similar covers.
This is for: MK3/MK3S/MK3S+
Letters stl is also included if you want to make this a multi color print.
The RPi + Hyperpixel screen will slide it properly, not too snug. The cover itself is centered properly for an MK3S. The angle of the cover maximizes gets as close to the original as possible, keeping clearance with the surface blow, and still allows the default knob (and custom ones) to have proper clearance with the print bed.
This cover does require you to solder power onto your RPi. Honestly if you are going to power the Hyperpixel 4" screen + a camera + cpu fan + Octoprint, you are risking it by going in with a USB connector, even one with 18 gauge wires. As such I recommend you solder 18 gauge wires onto the solder pads on your RPi, and wire those into a reliable 5V power source with at least 3 amps. See included picture for which solder pads to use. VCC=PP1/PP2. Ground=PP3/4/5/6
The main LCD mounts using the same screws and method as the original. I started with Prusa .step files for the LCD cover. You can hack away with the included Fusion 360 design if you like.
Though it will still work if you don't do this, I highly recommend you also trim the headphone jack on your RPi, since it sticks out more than anything else, and that 2mm matters. You won't be connecting headphones to this, so it shouldn't be an issue. Using a knife, score around the headphone jack, then snip it off with some wire cutters. I included pictures to show this.
For anyone asking, yes you can run a FanShim with a Hyperpixel 4". The key to doing this is to disable the fan's LED and button by specifying the --noled --nobutton command line options as part of the install-service script for the fan. I ran with just a heat sink and would get an occasional heat warning. Since installing the fan I've had no issues, even inside my enclosure.
Printing both the Letters and LCD cover multi-color using PrusaSlicer
Add the LCD Cover.stl
Add the Letters.stl
Select just Letters, and change the Position: x=175.85, y=76.75
Select both the Letters and LCD cover, make sure you have them both selected, and do the following moves in this order: rotate-Z=325, translate-X=4, translate-y=6. The values will reset to 0 after you do each one. Once done the part should now show as green and "printable" in PrusaSlicer
Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set offset the infill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10
Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)
Set extruders for each part
Slice and check the first 1-2 layers to make sure the letters are lined up perfectly. You may need to go back to step 2, and change y= by .25mm.
Printing just the cover
After adding the cover, rotate-Z=325
Offset X by 4 and Y by 6 and the part should show green on the bed for printing.
Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set offset the infill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10
Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)
Slice and print
Layer Height = 0.2mm
No fitment issues from other similar covers.
This is for: MK3/MK3S/MK3S+
Letters stl is also included if you want to make this a multi color print.
The RPi + Hyperpixel screen will slide it properly, not too snug. The cover itself is centered properly for an MK3S. The angle of the cover maximizes gets as close to the original as possible, keeping clearance with the surface blow, and still allows the default knob (and custom ones) to have proper clearance with the print bed.
This cover does require you to solder power onto your RPi. Honestly if you are going to power the Hyperpixel 4" screen + a camera + cpu fan + Octoprint, you are risking it by going in with a USB connector, even one with 18 gauge wires. As such I recommend you solder 18 gauge wires onto the solder pads on your RPi, and wire those into a reliable 5V power source with at least 3 amps. See included picture for which solder pads to use. VCC=PP1/PP2. Ground=PP3/4/5/6
The main LCD mounts using the same screws and method as the original. I started with Prusa .step files for the LCD cover. You can hack away with the included Fusion 360 design if you like.
Though it will still work if you don't do this, I highly recommend you also trim the headphone jack on your RPi, since it sticks out more than anything else, and that 2mm matters. You won't be connecting headphones to this, so it shouldn't be an issue. Using a knife, score around the headphone jack, then snip it off with some wire cutters. I included pictures to show this.
For anyone asking, yes you can run a FanShim with a Hyperpixel 4". The key to doing this is to disable the fan's LED and button by specifying the --noled --nobutton command line options as part of the install-service script for the fan. I ran with just a heat sink and would get an occasional heat warning. Since installing the fan I've had no issues, even inside my enclosure.
Printing both the Letters and LCD cover multi-color using PrusaSlicer
Add the LCD Cover.stl
Add the Letters.stl
Select just Letters, and change the Position: x=175.85, y=76.75
Select both the Letters and LCD cover, make sure you have them both selected, and do the following moves in this order: rotate-Z=325, translate-X=4, translate-y=6. The values will reset to 0 after you do each one. Once done the part should now show as green and "printable" in PrusaSlicer
Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set offset the infill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10
Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)
Set extruders for each part
Slice and check the first 1-2 layers to make sure the letters are lined up perfectly. You may need to go back to step 2, and change y= by .25mm.
Printing just the cover
After adding the cover, rotate-Z=325
Offset X by 4 and Y by 6 and the part should show green on the bed for printing.
Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set offset the infill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10
Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)
Slice and print
Layer Height = 0.2mm
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