Thingiverse
GUST - i3 print cooler (Plus, v2.1, maybe others?) by WaveSupportApparatus
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
GUST is retired. Use its successor, Whirligig, instead!
TL;DR
GUST is a high-efficiency part-cooling fan shroud for the i3 family of printers, designed based on the results of my print cooling experiments. It meets five design criteria:
Dump as much cold air as possible, at the highest pressure possible, as close to the nozzle as possible. This improves the quality of short layers.
Do not trap hot air in the plastic deposition area. Push it away so that warping is reduced.
Allow easy access to the nozzle for bed levelling.
Provide a clear line of sight to the nozzle and an unobstructed view of the print-in-progress for filming time lapses (I recommend my super-compact bed-mounted Raspi cam).
Allow easy removal of the entire shroud assembly for access to the hot-end.
GUST is a work-in-progress, but it's ready to use right now! I suggest you 'Watch' this thing to get notifications about new revisions.
Important compatibility info
Known to fit:
Wanhao i3 Plus or rebadged versions
Stock hot-end/extruder
Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end
Does not fit Flexion hot-end/extruder (apparently the Flexion nozzle is too short?)
Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (thanks, Roykinn7!)
This shroud is designed for a Wanhao i3 Plus, or a rebadged version of it. It fits onto an extruder bracket that has M3 holes shaped as slots spaced around 30 mm apart, on a tab that is 45 mm long.
There is a different kind of bracket that has holes (not slots) spaced 40 mm apart, on a tab that is 50 mm long. I have provided a slotted bracket to fit these measurements, but I can't guarantee that the other bracket dimensions are the same or that the shroud will fit your bracket's height.
I have also made the assumption that your nozzle is at least 6 mm tall from the heater block to the tip, which is the case for both the Plus' stock nozzle and also for the Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end's nozzle. GUST cannot fit into the space around a shorter nozzle, and cannot be made to fit there; it's already nearly too thin.
If you are able to use this shroud on a non-Plus model, could you please comment and let the community know? Info about your bracket and nozzle would be good.
Bill of Materials
Note: Always use the latest revision of each STL (e.g. use Rev 2 instead of Rev 1). The newest files are always listed first, and they are always compatible with each other; you can use the Rev 2 duct with the Rev 1 shroud, for example, as long as they are the latest revisions of those objects. The old files remain 'below the fold' in case you want to explore them.
1× Cooling duct.stl. There is also a version with Meshmixer supports included, for those who don't have a slicer that can do custom supports.
1× Bracket.stl. The slotted bracket can fit on brackets with both 30 and 40 mm screw hole distances, and allows you to adjust the shroud along the X axis.
(Optional) 1 mm shim.stl to raise the shroud above the tip of your nozzle. If you need a shim that is greater than 1 mm, use 10 mm shim.stl and tell the slicer to stop at the desired height. I use 3 mm of shim for my Micro Swiss hot end.
1× 50×50×15 mm blower fan. 24 V for Plus machines, 12 V for standard machines.
1× M4 screw (25 mm), washer, and nut.
2× M3 screw (12 mm), washers, and nuts. I bonded wingnuts to grub screws with Loctite, and I use thumb wheels to tighten them down. Tool-less shroud removal!
Installation
Level your bed.
Join the blower fan, Duct, and Bracket using the M4 screw. Leave it loose for now.
Attach Bracket to the fan mounting bracket of the extruder block using the M3 screws. Leave these loose for now.
Looking from the side, align the nozzle with the opening of the shroud by moving the Bracket forwards or backwards. Tighten the M3 bracket screws.
If needed, add Shims to raise the base of the shroud about 1 mm above the tip of the nozzle.
Zero the Z axis. Pivot the Duct so that it is parallel to the bed. Confirm that it does not collide with the bed.
Tighten the M4 screw.
Suggested cooling profile: 0–20 % speed for the first layer. 100 % for all subsequent layers.
Test spike slicer settings
Want to follow along? Here are the settings I used:
PLA, 0.40 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layer height.
2 perimeters with 2 bottom layers
No infill
75 mm/s base printing speed
Adjust printing speed for layers below 1 second, allow reduction down to 5 %
Frequently Asked Questions
Won't it melt from being so close to the nozzle?
Nope! My experience with shrouds like this is that so much cold air is passing through them that they barely deform, if at all. I have had this particular shroud printed in PLA and even touching the heater block's insulation and it isn't deformed.
If you are worried about the shroud melting while printing a large first layer without the fan running, there are four ways to deal with it:
Trust that PLA has bad thermal conductivity, and the design of the shroud means that only an island on the top surface of the shroud is being heated up, and the heat will find it difficult to spread to the rest of the shroud to cause a structural failure.
Increase the air gap between shroud and block.
Put extra insulation between the shroud and heating block.
Run the fan at a very low speed for the first layer (10-20 %) to keep air moving through it. Make sure to actually check that the fan turns at the speed you've selected; my fan won't turn for anything less than 20 % speed.
This was the best way to design the shroud as far as I could see, in order to meet the design requirement of getting right up against the nozzle. The nozzle is only 6 mm tall, so space is limited:
| Heater block |
----------------
1 mm | | Insulating air gap
2 mm | | ===========
3 mm | | Air passage
4 mm | | Air passage
5 mm | | ===========
6 mm \_____/ Clearance from print
There's no room, in short, and reducing the air passage just makes the fan louder and makes backflow worse.
What kind of blower fan should I use?
The strongest one you can find with the highest static pressure rating. You can always turn it down if it's too powerful. I've had good times with Shenzhen Gdstime Technology Co. Ltd fans. I've also heard good things about YYQ fans, although I have never used one. But caveat emptor: CFM specs from random sellers are probably untrue.
Can I use a 12 V fan in a 24 V system?
Yes, but you shouldn't. Aside from the possibility of the fans sparking because they're over-volted, they will eventually fail and start making these horrible grinding/rattling sounds.
TL;DR
GUST is a high-efficiency part-cooling fan shroud for the i3 family of printers, designed based on the results of my print cooling experiments. It meets five design criteria:
Dump as much cold air as possible, at the highest pressure possible, as close to the nozzle as possible. This improves the quality of short layers.
Do not trap hot air in the plastic deposition area. Push it away so that warping is reduced.
Allow easy access to the nozzle for bed levelling.
Provide a clear line of sight to the nozzle and an unobstructed view of the print-in-progress for filming time lapses (I recommend my super-compact bed-mounted Raspi cam).
Allow easy removal of the entire shroud assembly for access to the hot-end.
GUST is a work-in-progress, but it's ready to use right now! I suggest you 'Watch' this thing to get notifications about new revisions.
Important compatibility info
Known to fit:
Wanhao i3 Plus or rebadged versions
Stock hot-end/extruder
Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end
Does not fit Flexion hot-end/extruder (apparently the Flexion nozzle is too short?)
Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (thanks, Roykinn7!)
This shroud is designed for a Wanhao i3 Plus, or a rebadged version of it. It fits onto an extruder bracket that has M3 holes shaped as slots spaced around 30 mm apart, on a tab that is 45 mm long.
There is a different kind of bracket that has holes (not slots) spaced 40 mm apart, on a tab that is 50 mm long. I have provided a slotted bracket to fit these measurements, but I can't guarantee that the other bracket dimensions are the same or that the shroud will fit your bracket's height.
I have also made the assumption that your nozzle is at least 6 mm tall from the heater block to the tip, which is the case for both the Plus' stock nozzle and also for the Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end's nozzle. GUST cannot fit into the space around a shorter nozzle, and cannot be made to fit there; it's already nearly too thin.
If you are able to use this shroud on a non-Plus model, could you please comment and let the community know? Info about your bracket and nozzle would be good.
Bill of Materials
Note: Always use the latest revision of each STL (e.g. use Rev 2 instead of Rev 1). The newest files are always listed first, and they are always compatible with each other; you can use the Rev 2 duct with the Rev 1 shroud, for example, as long as they are the latest revisions of those objects. The old files remain 'below the fold' in case you want to explore them.
1× Cooling duct.stl. There is also a version with Meshmixer supports included, for those who don't have a slicer that can do custom supports.
1× Bracket.stl. The slotted bracket can fit on brackets with both 30 and 40 mm screw hole distances, and allows you to adjust the shroud along the X axis.
(Optional) 1 mm shim.stl to raise the shroud above the tip of your nozzle. If you need a shim that is greater than 1 mm, use 10 mm shim.stl and tell the slicer to stop at the desired height. I use 3 mm of shim for my Micro Swiss hot end.
1× 50×50×15 mm blower fan. 24 V for Plus machines, 12 V for standard machines.
1× M4 screw (25 mm), washer, and nut.
2× M3 screw (12 mm), washers, and nuts. I bonded wingnuts to grub screws with Loctite, and I use thumb wheels to tighten them down. Tool-less shroud removal!
Installation
Level your bed.
Join the blower fan, Duct, and Bracket using the M4 screw. Leave it loose for now.
Attach Bracket to the fan mounting bracket of the extruder block using the M3 screws. Leave these loose for now.
Looking from the side, align the nozzle with the opening of the shroud by moving the Bracket forwards or backwards. Tighten the M3 bracket screws.
If needed, add Shims to raise the base of the shroud about 1 mm above the tip of the nozzle.
Zero the Z axis. Pivot the Duct so that it is parallel to the bed. Confirm that it does not collide with the bed.
Tighten the M4 screw.
Suggested cooling profile: 0–20 % speed for the first layer. 100 % for all subsequent layers.
Test spike slicer settings
Want to follow along? Here are the settings I used:
PLA, 0.40 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layer height.
2 perimeters with 2 bottom layers
No infill
75 mm/s base printing speed
Adjust printing speed for layers below 1 second, allow reduction down to 5 %
Frequently Asked Questions
Won't it melt from being so close to the nozzle?
Nope! My experience with shrouds like this is that so much cold air is passing through them that they barely deform, if at all. I have had this particular shroud printed in PLA and even touching the heater block's insulation and it isn't deformed.
If you are worried about the shroud melting while printing a large first layer without the fan running, there are four ways to deal with it:
Trust that PLA has bad thermal conductivity, and the design of the shroud means that only an island on the top surface of the shroud is being heated up, and the heat will find it difficult to spread to the rest of the shroud to cause a structural failure.
Increase the air gap between shroud and block.
Put extra insulation between the shroud and heating block.
Run the fan at a very low speed for the first layer (10-20 %) to keep air moving through it. Make sure to actually check that the fan turns at the speed you've selected; my fan won't turn for anything less than 20 % speed.
This was the best way to design the shroud as far as I could see, in order to meet the design requirement of getting right up against the nozzle. The nozzle is only 6 mm tall, so space is limited:
| Heater block |
----------------
1 mm | | Insulating air gap
2 mm | | ===========
3 mm | | Air passage
4 mm | | Air passage
5 mm | | ===========
6 mm \_____/ Clearance from print
There's no room, in short, and reducing the air passage just makes the fan louder and makes backflow worse.
What kind of blower fan should I use?
The strongest one you can find with the highest static pressure rating. You can always turn it down if it's too powerful. I've had good times with Shenzhen Gdstime Technology Co. Ltd fans. I've also heard good things about YYQ fans, although I have never used one. But caveat emptor: CFM specs from random sellers are probably untrue.
Can I use a 12 V fan in a 24 V system?
Yes, but you shouldn't. Aside from the possibility of the fans sparking because they're over-volted, they will eventually fail and start making these horrible grinding/rattling sounds.
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ST12 Other
...signconnected
photo-realistic 3d models of the st12 other stool from e15 for 3d architectural and interior design presentations.
turbosquid
$26
Oar and Other
...quid
royalty free 3d model oar and other for download as fbx on turbosquid: 3d models for games, architecture, videos. (1473409)
turbosquid
$5
chair with other
...id
royalty free 3d model chair with other for download as ma on turbosquid: 3d models for games, architecture, videos. (1171468)
3ddd
$1
parfume and other
...parfume and other
3ddd
тумбочка
create by sametyuzer
turbosquid
$79
The Others Collection
...others collection for download as 3ds, max, obj, fbx, and dae on turbosquid: 3d models for games, architecture, videos. (1480228)
turbosquid
$25
Other Man
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
$15
other car.max
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
$2
Other Mothers Hand
... 3d model other mothers hand for download as ma, fbx, and obj on turbosquid: 3d models for games, architecture, videos. (1663825)
turbosquid
$8
other sport wheel
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
turbosquid
$2
pool and other elements
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
design_connected
$27
...print
designconnected
moroso print computer generated 3d model. designed by wanders, marcel.
3ddd
free
Eichholtz Prints
...- eichholtz print central station i
13 - eichholtz print central station ii
14 - eichholtz print marisa
15 - eichholtz print tish
3ddd
$1
Eichholtz Prints
...print abstract - set of 2
10 - eichholtz print orange abstract
11 - eichholtz print buddha right
12 - eichholtz print buddha left
turbosquid
$1
... available on turbo squid, the world's leading provider of digital 3d models for visualization, films, television, and games.
3ddd
free
Eichholtz Prints
...of 4
2 - print dunbar 2 set of 4
3 - print guadeloupe 1 set of 4
4 - print guadeloupe 2 set of 4
5 - print giles
6 - print trett
3ddd
$1
Eichholtz Prints
...nt tutti frutti
3 - eichholtz prints watson - set of 2
4 - eichholtz prints antique nautilus - set of 2
5 - eichholtz print tiara
3d_export
$5
Monster for printing
...monster for printing
3dexport
monster 3d model printing
3ddd
free
printed rug
...printed rug
3ddd
ковер
very creative printed rug
3ddd
free
Eichholtz Prints
...иал: бумага
габариты (вхш): 72 x 62 см
описание: print sweetmeat - постер в деревянной раме.
3 - prints varsity set of 2
арти
3ddd
free
Art Print Posters
...art print posters
3ddd
прованс
art print posters by patrician prints