Thingiverse
GoPed Bigfoot Electric Scooter Conversion Parts by iPeel
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
I thought I would upload all the parts I use to convert so far a couple of old petrol GoPed Bigfoot scooters to electric. As well as these parts you clearly need a bunch of other stuff including metal brackets to mount the drive train and a bunch of electronics, which includes but is not limited to:
A 80-ish tooth and 11-12 tooth chain drive set plus chain, typically used for Mini-Moto and other scooters. I bought mine from Petrolscooter.co.uk.
A couple of Multistar 16ah 4S batteries which are arranged in series to product 8S of Lipo voltage (33-ish volts).
A Turnigy SK3 6374 192kv motor, this with the sprocket setup above is good for about 28mph. and will cover 20km range easily.
A VESC speed controller, the bracket here is for the 4.12 from Scramboards which has a heatsink. Other ESCs like the D-Luc from Turnigy work, but the VESC can operate the throttle in a current mode which is more like a traditional scooter throttle whereas a regular ESC is a bit wild.
Two hall effect thumb throttles, and an Arduino Nano to control it, contact me if you want the firmware for this.
A bunch of 10mm outer, 8mm inner LEDs for the rear light cluster and status LEDs etc. The N79AX from Maplin was what I used.
Loads of M5, M4, M8 and M10 bolts.
I may do a blog post on putting it all together if I have the time to do so, but the whole thing is pretty straightforward if you have some decent metalworking and electrics knowledge.
In terms of the parts provided here, this is a brief description of each:
4S 16ah Multistar Bracket Inner and Outer - These hold the two Turnigy batteries firmly against the bottom of the wooden deck and the inner bracket fits around the main chassis tube, you need one inner and two outers for a dual battery setup.
VESC Mount - This holds the VESC tightly and provides cooling to the heatsink as well as having a space in the back to accept a Bluetooth LE module for onboard telemetry to an iPhone or Android device.
SK3 Fan Cover - This has been published here before but is added here for completeness, it snaps onto the back of the SK3 motor to provide cooling across the windings as the motor is mounted sideways to the air flow.
Tailpipe Light Cluster - This holds three red LEDS and provides a nice neat solution to covering the tailpipe which used to be the exhaust and serves as a pathetic attempt to legalise the scooter.
Arduino Nano Cover - Provides a case for the Arduino and a backing for the status LED that is mounted into the top of the board for showing battery level etc, see here: https://youtu.be/mKAX4GPSQek .
XT90 Fob Cover / XT90 Switch Holder - I turn the GoPed on and off using an XT90 which switches the voltage of the batteries through to the rest of the gear, this provides a mechanism to hold the XT90 and provides a nice neat fob for the XT90 plug.
8S XT60 Charge Point - This terminates an 8S balance socket which I used to mate the two 4S balance plugs to a single 8S balance socket as well as an XT60 connector for the main charge point. On mine this is always energised (not controlled by the XT90) so the scooter can be charged whilst switched off.
I appreciate that all this stuff may not be the most useful without a step by step guide but hopefully come people will be able to use some of it to make their own widowmakers. :-)
A 80-ish tooth and 11-12 tooth chain drive set plus chain, typically used for Mini-Moto and other scooters. I bought mine from Petrolscooter.co.uk.
A couple of Multistar 16ah 4S batteries which are arranged in series to product 8S of Lipo voltage (33-ish volts).
A Turnigy SK3 6374 192kv motor, this with the sprocket setup above is good for about 28mph. and will cover 20km range easily.
A VESC speed controller, the bracket here is for the 4.12 from Scramboards which has a heatsink. Other ESCs like the D-Luc from Turnigy work, but the VESC can operate the throttle in a current mode which is more like a traditional scooter throttle whereas a regular ESC is a bit wild.
Two hall effect thumb throttles, and an Arduino Nano to control it, contact me if you want the firmware for this.
A bunch of 10mm outer, 8mm inner LEDs for the rear light cluster and status LEDs etc. The N79AX from Maplin was what I used.
Loads of M5, M4, M8 and M10 bolts.
I may do a blog post on putting it all together if I have the time to do so, but the whole thing is pretty straightforward if you have some decent metalworking and electrics knowledge.
In terms of the parts provided here, this is a brief description of each:
4S 16ah Multistar Bracket Inner and Outer - These hold the two Turnigy batteries firmly against the bottom of the wooden deck and the inner bracket fits around the main chassis tube, you need one inner and two outers for a dual battery setup.
VESC Mount - This holds the VESC tightly and provides cooling to the heatsink as well as having a space in the back to accept a Bluetooth LE module for onboard telemetry to an iPhone or Android device.
SK3 Fan Cover - This has been published here before but is added here for completeness, it snaps onto the back of the SK3 motor to provide cooling across the windings as the motor is mounted sideways to the air flow.
Tailpipe Light Cluster - This holds three red LEDS and provides a nice neat solution to covering the tailpipe which used to be the exhaust and serves as a pathetic attempt to legalise the scooter.
Arduino Nano Cover - Provides a case for the Arduino and a backing for the status LED that is mounted into the top of the board for showing battery level etc, see here: https://youtu.be/mKAX4GPSQek .
XT90 Fob Cover / XT90 Switch Holder - I turn the GoPed on and off using an XT90 which switches the voltage of the batteries through to the rest of the gear, this provides a mechanism to hold the XT90 and provides a nice neat fob for the XT90 plug.
8S XT60 Charge Point - This terminates an 8S balance socket which I used to mate the two 4S balance plugs to a single 8S balance socket as well as an XT60 connector for the main charge point. On mine this is always energised (not controlled by the XT90) so the scooter can be charged whilst switched off.
I appreciate that all this stuff may not be the most useful without a step by step guide but hopefully come people will be able to use some of it to make their own widowmakers. :-)
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