Thingiverse
Generic car audio Tweeter mount 1" by David97
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
This STL is a generic tweeter mount. Which serves as a useful way to mount tweeters to interior panels of cars.
They will need a lot of fitting, sanding, painting to get them looking good. But with enough time and patience, the results can look quite good.
I designed and built this to hold the tweeters provided in a alpine Alpine S-S65C kit. The tweeters are 1" driver, 2" mounting hole, and 17.6mm deep from the front lip. Given that these are designed around this set of tweeters, I would highly recommend doing some test prints and measurements, as the fit is quite tight. And they may not work well for every vehicle and tweeter combination. The vehicle I fitted these to was a 2004 ford courier.
Print in a material that will withstand the hot temperatures that the vehicle interior can reach. I recommend PETG, since it is easy to print, and withstands up to 80C
Assembly.
To position and fit the part I used Blu-Tack, or poster putty to position the mounts while the trims are in the vehicle. Using a dremil and grinding stone to shave down the tweeter pod. Getting it to fit well to the trim panel.
Once I had the fit correct and was happy with the position, I scribed around the part to mark the final position.
Scuff the surfaced that are to be glued together for good adhesion.Use super glue to hold hold it in the correct place.
Use epoxy resin to create a fillet between the parts.
I used fiberglass epoxy, WetSystem Z105 resin, 205 hardner, and 403 microfiber filler. No particular reason for using this stuff, other than that's what I had in my garage left over from other projects.
After mixing the resin, I added enough filler to make the resin fairly thick, so I could form a good bead between the printed part and plastic trim. Wetting a finger with rubbing alcohol to smooth out the bead and avoid the epoxy sticking to my finger helped create a smooth even fillet between both parts.
Using a sanding wheel on a dremel, I was able to sand the fillet, leaving a even radius all the way around. I used the dremel to cut out the back of the trim panel,, so I could fit the speaker and locking ring through.
Finish with hand sanding, and degreasing before applying primer filler. You may need to apply several coats of primer filler, depending on how good your sanding was. I used arcrylic based primer fill. After the primer filler drys, use wet sanding to remove any small imperfections or marks, starting at 600 grit, and progressively working up to finer sandpapers.
Finish by thoroughly washing and de-greasing. Wait for the part to dry, before applying a top coat of paint.
For my trim panel, I decided to use a satin black acrylic based rattle can. Since the color and shine closely resembled the original plastic. I'm no expert in whats the best paints to use, so use, but acrylic based paints seems to bind well with the plastics.
Unfortunately, I could not find any photos of the epoxy filling process. However will upload if I find them.
They will need a lot of fitting, sanding, painting to get them looking good. But with enough time and patience, the results can look quite good.
I designed and built this to hold the tweeters provided in a alpine Alpine S-S65C kit. The tweeters are 1" driver, 2" mounting hole, and 17.6mm deep from the front lip. Given that these are designed around this set of tweeters, I would highly recommend doing some test prints and measurements, as the fit is quite tight. And they may not work well for every vehicle and tweeter combination. The vehicle I fitted these to was a 2004 ford courier.
Print in a material that will withstand the hot temperatures that the vehicle interior can reach. I recommend PETG, since it is easy to print, and withstands up to 80C
Assembly.
To position and fit the part I used Blu-Tack, or poster putty to position the mounts while the trims are in the vehicle. Using a dremil and grinding stone to shave down the tweeter pod. Getting it to fit well to the trim panel.
Once I had the fit correct and was happy with the position, I scribed around the part to mark the final position.
Scuff the surfaced that are to be glued together for good adhesion.Use super glue to hold hold it in the correct place.
Use epoxy resin to create a fillet between the parts.
I used fiberglass epoxy, WetSystem Z105 resin, 205 hardner, and 403 microfiber filler. No particular reason for using this stuff, other than that's what I had in my garage left over from other projects.
After mixing the resin, I added enough filler to make the resin fairly thick, so I could form a good bead between the printed part and plastic trim. Wetting a finger with rubbing alcohol to smooth out the bead and avoid the epoxy sticking to my finger helped create a smooth even fillet between both parts.
Using a sanding wheel on a dremel, I was able to sand the fillet, leaving a even radius all the way around. I used the dremel to cut out the back of the trim panel,, so I could fit the speaker and locking ring through.
Finish with hand sanding, and degreasing before applying primer filler. You may need to apply several coats of primer filler, depending on how good your sanding was. I used arcrylic based primer fill. After the primer filler drys, use wet sanding to remove any small imperfections or marks, starting at 600 grit, and progressively working up to finer sandpapers.
Finish by thoroughly washing and de-greasing. Wait for the part to dry, before applying a top coat of paint.
For my trim panel, I decided to use a satin black acrylic based rattle can. Since the color and shine closely resembled the original plastic. I'm no expert in whats the best paints to use, so use, but acrylic based paints seems to bind well with the plastics.
Unfortunately, I could not find any photos of the epoxy filling process. However will upload if I find them.
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