FT5 CoreXY Conversion by Rajaa

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Important update: Don't use steel-core belts, they'll cause wrong print dimensions after a while.
-Replaced the files with the new V2 files. 27/07/2017
-New little adjustments made toady 1/08/2017
-Lowered (1.5mm) the high idler of the left carriage (because the toothless idler height is 10mm, not 9mm like the toothed one), changed Y endstop holes, and corrected a small error in Extruder mount tensioner holes. 2/08/2017
-Corrected the holes position in the parts "Right idlers mount 2" and "Left idlers mount 2" (they were off by like 0.5mm). 3/8/2017
-Uploaded Fan Mount v2. 6/08/2017
-Changed stepper mounts. 19/9/2017
-Updated belt tensioner. 30/11/2017
-Added letters (L&R) to the parts to indicate left and right. Updated the left and right carriages to use M5 nuts instead of using the carriage itself as a nut for the idlers screws (easier to work with) and slightly adjusted their design. check the last rendering picture. Changed all the idlers to F695zz Flanged Bearing 5x13x4mm and updated almost all the parts to fit the new idlers. 26/01.2018
-Added the files in STEP format. 3/04/2018
-Edited Extruder Mount so you can use regular nozzle/heat block or Volcano setup (but if you will not use Volcano, you have to modify the part cooling fan design so it becomes shorter otherwise it'll hit the bed). 2018/06/23.
Now you can 3D view or download the raw design in multiple formats to edit it easily (if you want to).http://a360.co/2Bv5o4T
Video about all the changes I made to my FT-5:https://youtu.be/JWi-ZnHx8co
FT5 Accurate Adjustable Z Endstop:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tF2z4EKhI4I
13X M5*10mm screws and T-nuts (to hold mounts on 2020 profiles).
1X M3*8mm screw (for X Endstop).
X16 Idlers F695zz Flanged Bearing 5x13x4mm.
Carriages screws: 8X M310mm for Y and 4X M38mm for X. 2X M3*20mm screws and nylon lock nuts (to hold the X rail).
4X M3*30mm screws and nuts (for belts tensioners).
6X M5*45mm and 8X M5 nuts (for idlers).
For the back M5 idler screw holes, I drilled them with 4.5mm drilling bit, so I can use the screws without nuts (so the plastic will be the nut) but you can drill them with 5mm bit and use M5 nuts.
The extruder mount got 4 holes in case you want to make adapters for something like BLtouch or cables box etc..
The motors side is the front side! Use support for the part "belt tensioner/mount" but don't use support for its belt teeth. When inserting the belts into the tensioners, be gentle with the little lever, open it very slightly to insert the belt or you might break it. This design requires a long nozzle or Volcano setup (see updates section). Use high quality idlers!! I tried the cheap ones, and they are not spinning 100% in center, and that leads to print quality issues! No need to extend any wires for the motors or X endstop, the stock wires are long enough. I used 3X M360mm screws with nuts to hold the extruder assembly all the way from the back of the short stepper to the Aero heatsink (I removed 3 screws from the stepper). Make sure to orient the parts to the proper orientation before printing (depends on how the part is stressed). I'll change the orientations later for you. I used 4 walls, 4 top, 4 bottom, 50% infill. Don't forget to remove the "//" before "#define COREXY" to enable CoreXY kinematics. Make sure all idlers/belts are in their correct height, the belts should always be horizontal at any point! If you are going to use high bed temps, don't use PLA for the part "bed spacer", you can also ignore this part and use m360mm screw as a bed spacer as shown in the picture (I used 80mm screws temporarily).
** Use a stiff material, preferably heat resistance like CF-PETG, CF-nylon CF-ABS. Anything could work tho even PLA.
Idlers F695zz Flanged Bearing 5x13x4mm X16 :https://goo.gl/Wfv45t
Recommended pulleys: https://goo.gl/XntrST
Let me know if I forgot something. Good luck! :)