FCR-22 Taipan Assault Rifle FTW+Regular high performance foam blaster

Last crawled date: 4 years, 3 months ago

The Taipan is a printed Nerf assault rifle intended for large (300x300) build plates. No more billion little pieces to assemble or annoying flex on your blaster - this rifle is intended for those who want to get the most out of their large printers. It also offers plenty of battery and electronics space as well as an easily accessible battery compartment via a simple button press. The dual FTW+regular sized cage offers top notch performance while integrating inside the blaster seamlessly.
This project requires some commitment and I expect the builder to know how to wire up such a blaster. I've added .STEP files for reference and for making modded parts. When uploading those, keep the license in mind.
I should also note that selling the blaster without permission is illegal. If you are a seller interested in selling and manufacturing Taipans, please contact me directly.
Tips are highly appreciated and would help me a lot on future Nerf projects.
Feedback is very much welcome and though I might not be able to respond to everyone, I read everything. If you run into issues, I'll do my best to help.
Hardware list:
-x2 Standard Omron sized microswitch;
-4Motors of choice;
-FTW, Nightowl or Cabanossi flywheels;
-Regular sized flywheels. I used Worker ABS, not sure if anything else will fit.
-Wiring and a battery plug of choice;
-Some M2.5x10 screws or their imperial equivalent. Preferably countersunk. There are areas where longer screws could give it more strength;
-Some M2 Motor screws. You#ll need extra for some of the accessories.
-4x0.4mm compression springs or spring material;
-4x0.4mm extension springs or spring material;
-FTW solenoid;
-Some M5 screws for Picatinny attachments
-3mm pin material and a means to cut it
OPTIONAL:
-Nerfduino or an Arduino. I don't have any experience of wiring those up but I've left room for them inside the grip so it should cover your full auto needs.
Print settings:
Parts are NOT oriented for printing
Best results with Cura slicer, otherwise I can't guarantee good tolerances.
Layer height: 0.24 or lower
Perimeters: 3 or more (no reason for more than 5)
Supports: Preferably use tree supports and if not, don't forget to place the supports everywhere, not only directly above build plate
Print speed: 60mm/s works best but that will depend on your setup as well
5 or more top/bottom layers but I feel you could use less
15% infill should be good but you might be able to get away with lower percentage
Make sure moving parts fit together without friction before proceeding to the next step
Assembly instructions:
I've only done this once a month ago so this might be a bit harder for me to write and for you to follow
1) Start with the cage. Attach and wireup the motors, carefully add the flywheels.
2) Grab the receiver and start wiring up the microswitches to the cage, Solenoid and optionally a Nerfduino or an Arduino. Don't forget the battery plug. Make it longer so it will reach the end of the stock. when that's on. While doing this keep in mind the place they will be in. The microswitches will be screwed on the grip later.
3) Grab the grip and the trigger and assemble them together with a cut-to-length 3mm pin. Make sure there is very little friction.
4) Attach the grip with two screws on its back to the receiver. Make sure your control board falls inside nicely and be careful not to hit the wiring in general. Screw on the microswitches. Add the extension spring between the trigger and a dedicated screw hole right behind the rear microswitch. Test the trigger. It should first depress the rev microswitch and then press the fire microswitch.
5) Carefully drop in the solenoid. Again, be careful not to pinch the wiring or it won't fall inside all the way. After that, screw in the cage.
6) Cut a 3mm pin to the distance between the slots on the lower receiver. Attach and hold the mag release with a 4mm compression spring in its place. Optionally also add the flared magwell. All these components should have their holes lined up. Run the pin through it. Test the mag release by inserting a magazine. Screw in two motor screws on the flared magwell.
7) Screw on the stock, run the battery plug inside. Screw on the stock cap rail on it.
8) Assemble the stock cap and stock cap lock with a 4mm compression spring and a cut-to-length pin. Test fit and remove it off the stock. If it works properly, proceed.
9) At this point you should be able to test fire the blaster.
10) OPTIONAL: Attach the cheek rest on the stock with two motor screws.
11) Build the jam door assembly. The jam door lock goes into its slot with a 4mm compression spring. You should pre-compress it a bit. Put the jam door in.
12) Grab the handle and attach the angled picatinny. It's screwed on from the inside.
13) Screw on the handle on top of the receiver. You will need quite a few screws.
14) Screw on the barrel shroud.
15) Put the barrel halves together. Screw on the tip.
16) Insert the assembly inside the barrel shroud. Use the two rearmost holes on the barrel shroud to fix them in.
17) OPTIONAL: add the foregrip or iron sights. They use M5 screws to attach to the picatinny rails.
18) Enjoy!