E3D V6 Bowden mount for Wanhao/Monoprice Duplicator i3 or any 45mm rail to rail printer by light_seeker

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

Summary:
I printed most of the parts with supports to keep the surfaces off the bed. The cooler will need to be printed in something with High heat deflection. The mounting point is close to the heater block and will lose shape if the cooler is not printed in a material that can withstand the heat.
The main body of this design is a remix of CarstenD's bowden mount. The main body of the cooler was drawn from scratch by a friend and was inspired by the Diii. A lot of work was put into the designs that made it possible for me to make this. Hats off to those designers!
Screw lengths:
E3D v6 mount front to E3D v6 main body(.63"). The thin Nyloc is used to hold these together.
Bearing block to E3D v6 main body (.97"). If using my TL Smoother and Board mount(1.2")
Belt attachment screws (.96")
The stock Wanhao screws(M4 x 10mm)work for mounting the plastic bearing block and the lower corner screw to the aluminum block.
The inserts are for the Bearing block and the thumb screw. You will need a total of three.
Assembly:
The bearing block needs the upper holes drilled out for a 6/32 clearance. I used a 9/64 drill. The block drills out very easy. To save on cost I purchased 1 1/4", 6/32 screws and used the screw cutter on wire strippers to cut them down to size and then file the ends.
The nuts and screws for the belts need to be tight. The screws will need to be put through the belt support first and threaded on till they strip the part out. I made this intentionally tight to ensure no play. Then two of the Narrow hex nuts will need to be threaded on the screws. The two screws will need to be inserted into the holes for the belt attachment at the same time. These holes may need to be opened up a bit to allow the screws to spin freely. The screws will need to hit the wall, spin until the nut is forced backward against the support. then the nuts that were threaded onto the screws can be tightened against the support, sandwiching it. I put a dab of superglue on the nuts closes to the belt to ensure they don't move. Red thread locker will work also.
The front cover will need to be put on first before the cover wrap is put on. The cover wrap will need to be at a slight angle to allow it to slip on. There are two small tabs that have mating holes on the main body. These should snap in. If the cover doesn't fit it can be scaled up by 1 or 2%. It should fit without scaling as long as E-steps are correct.
Parts:
18-8 Stainless Steel Narrow Hex Nuthttps://www.mcmaster.com/#92362a120/=1crtv7w
Black-Phosphate Steel Thread-Locking Inserthttps://www.mcmaster.com/#90248a017/=1crtr2b
Button Head Hex Drive Screwhttps://www.mcmaster.com/#91255a155/=1crtvlj
Low-Strength Steel Thin Nylon-Insert Locknuthttps://www.mcmaster.com/#91581a315/=1crtsal
Plastic-Head Thumb Screw with Hex Drivehttps://www.mcmaster.com/#98704a205/=1crtsjj
Rounded Head Blunt Screws for Sheet Metalhttps://www.mcmaster.com/#92525a201/=1cru3qg
Happy printing! Any questions, feel free to ask.