Thingiverse
Cyclops flippy bot by GeoDave
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
I could not leave well enough alone as looking at this design was just hollering for a cyclops eye on the front. I have quite a few of these eyes left over from the hungry bot project. I made the body as one piece to cover up the electrical wires more & used plastic 3d printed screws & 2 - 4" wire ties, so there the only hardware needed is the motor, battery case & batteries. I could cut down the weight on the body some by adding big holes in the side, bottom & back & putting tape over the holes. The threading idea I took from gzumwalt's hummingbird design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859291).
The threaded parts I used are M6 threading and a mating gap of 0.4mm. I print the threaded portions of the parts at .1mm. To modify any of the openscad files that use the threading, you will need to download the threads.scad file from http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ . I put the settings for the threads in the ThreadSettings.scad file, so if you want to adjust the threading it only needs to be done in one place. I used the variable layer height with the Slic3r Prusa edition so I could print the threaded portion at .1mm & the rest of the part at .2mm.
I made 2 versions of the M6 screws, one with Hex heads & one with rounded heads. The hex heads will only work with the connections at the legs. A 3.5mm allen wrench should fit both screws. Thought I might need to put a wrench on the ones attached to the legs, but I really did not need them.
You will need 6 screws for the legs & 2 for the Idler arms and no gluing necessary except for the Cyclops eye. To make sure the screws will fit well, I use an M6 screw & nut to thread on the plastic screws, Idler arms & Drive arm. If you have esun plastic filament, you should have some M6 screws & nuts on there.
This design weighs 5 oz. on my scale with the motor & batteries which is 1.2oz more than my previous remix, so it will run the batteries out quicker. with this extra weight, it probably should be redesigned to use a lipo battery or I might try 2 AAA battery cases wired in series to see if that makes it last longer. Adding another AAA battery case would also add another 1oz to it.
This is motor I ordered, https://www.ebay.com/itm/222940708131 & battery case. https://www.ebay.com/itm/182738715576 .
The 1st prints I would do would be the screws & an idler arm to see if your plastic screws will print well on your printer. I print at least 2 of the screws & idler arms at a time to increase the cooling time between print layers of the threading. If you have a print cooler fan that may not be a problem for you.
I printed all the threaded portions of the screws, idler arms & drive arms at .1mm & 20% infill.
Use the Flippy_Assembly_Rev106.scad or Flippy_Assembly_Rev106.stl to see how the parts go together or the included image maybe enough for you to tell how it all goes together.
Print:
1 - FlippyBody_Mod_Rev119.stl
1 - FlippyLeg_Mod_2x_Rev101.stl
1 - IdleArmShortRound_2x_Rev114.stl
1 - IdleArmLongRound_2x_Rev114.stl
1 - DriveArm_Mod_2x_Rev115.stl
2 - RndBolts_6x_Rev102.stl (You really only need 8 screws)
1 - M6_Washer_6x_Rev1.stl
1 - FlippyBody_Mod_EndCap_Rev119.stl
I use esun Pla+ which has a little bit of give to it. If you use regular PLA, you could break the EndCap putting it in place.
If I missed some parts, let me know.
The threaded parts I used are M6 threading and a mating gap of 0.4mm. I print the threaded portions of the parts at .1mm. To modify any of the openscad files that use the threading, you will need to download the threads.scad file from http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ . I put the settings for the threads in the ThreadSettings.scad file, so if you want to adjust the threading it only needs to be done in one place. I used the variable layer height with the Slic3r Prusa edition so I could print the threaded portion at .1mm & the rest of the part at .2mm.
I made 2 versions of the M6 screws, one with Hex heads & one with rounded heads. The hex heads will only work with the connections at the legs. A 3.5mm allen wrench should fit both screws. Thought I might need to put a wrench on the ones attached to the legs, but I really did not need them.
You will need 6 screws for the legs & 2 for the Idler arms and no gluing necessary except for the Cyclops eye. To make sure the screws will fit well, I use an M6 screw & nut to thread on the plastic screws, Idler arms & Drive arm. If you have esun plastic filament, you should have some M6 screws & nuts on there.
This design weighs 5 oz. on my scale with the motor & batteries which is 1.2oz more than my previous remix, so it will run the batteries out quicker. with this extra weight, it probably should be redesigned to use a lipo battery or I might try 2 AAA battery cases wired in series to see if that makes it last longer. Adding another AAA battery case would also add another 1oz to it.
This is motor I ordered, https://www.ebay.com/itm/222940708131 & battery case. https://www.ebay.com/itm/182738715576 .
The 1st prints I would do would be the screws & an idler arm to see if your plastic screws will print well on your printer. I print at least 2 of the screws & idler arms at a time to increase the cooling time between print layers of the threading. If you have a print cooler fan that may not be a problem for you.
I printed all the threaded portions of the screws, idler arms & drive arms at .1mm & 20% infill.
Use the Flippy_Assembly_Rev106.scad or Flippy_Assembly_Rev106.stl to see how the parts go together or the included image maybe enough for you to tell how it all goes together.
Print:
1 - FlippyBody_Mod_Rev119.stl
1 - FlippyLeg_Mod_2x_Rev101.stl
1 - IdleArmShortRound_2x_Rev114.stl
1 - IdleArmLongRound_2x_Rev114.stl
1 - DriveArm_Mod_2x_Rev115.stl
2 - RndBolts_6x_Rev102.stl (You really only need 8 screws)
1 - M6_Washer_6x_Rev1.stl
1 - FlippyBody_Mod_EndCap_Rev119.stl
I use esun Pla+ which has a little bit of give to it. If you use regular PLA, you could break the EndCap putting it in place.
If I missed some parts, let me know.
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