Creative3D Elf Upgrade Parts

Last crawled date: 4 years, 3 months ago

I've been modding my Creative3D Elf and here are two pieces I've made.
The Direct Drive mount is for a Pancake Stepper and BMG. It brings the BMG output in line with the hot end instead of in front of it. It will not fit a full sized stepper, use their model if you have the original stepper motor.
I suggest printing with the end that hooks over the carriage on the bed with supports on bed only. There are minimal supports this way and the hook keeps the mount from bouncing.
Adapter:
Hardware needed per adapter, so double for a printer
4xM3x6/8 (short 8s)
2xM5x12 socket heads (button won't fit)
Brass Anti-backlash nut
The adapter plate was to allow trying normal brass anti-backlash nuts with the spring instead of the original POM nuts. This won't be necessary for customers in 2020 or later as they have gone to a new design, but for those with the cutout in their bed mounting plates, this fills the cutout and gives a mounting point for the nut. I print this vertically, with the flat end on the bed. Technically you should add supports to the holes, but the few strings I get don't cause any problems with the part so I don't bother. I do need to take a utility knife and make one or two passes at the top of the large bottom hole to make clearance for the spring, this takes just a moment.
PLA is plenty strong, there isn't that much load on the part. You will need short M3 screws for this. The socket heads I used were 10.75mm end to end with about 3mm of that being the socket and they JUST fit. Otherwise add washers.
This piece is VERY snug on the bed plate by design. If it has any give in the Z direction, it can't do it's job. I used a block of wood and hammer to tap it into place and M5 Socket heads to attach it to the plate (I only attached one, the other hasn't moved at all without the screws).
Z-Shim:
This is a 4mm shim which is slightly tall. I suggest scaling it down to 90%. Use this if you don't use your glass bed, either with a Spring Steel sheet or just buildtak on the aluminum, otherwise your nozzle will never reach. 4mm will likely cause your Z stops to top out and grind, either shim them or just cut this shim down slightly.
210mm Extrusions: Put two together to make a 420mm extrusion which can span your X axis and be attached with T-Nuts (there are several good printable T-Nuts) and 5-6mm M3 bolts to stiffen the X-Axis. This isn't cheaper than buying Aluminum 4020 extrusion, but it doesn't have to be cut to length and is a pretty easy print if you do it standing up. Standing up should be strong enough since the loads are compressive. If you lay it down, it will need supports so keep that in mind. Standing up needs none.