Creality CR 6 SE Hotend Fan Duct Adapter 40mm by RichardRobinson

Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago

Edit 2020-10-06:
v1.2 is now up. This provides a worthwhile improvement in noise and fan holding from v1.0, but will take a little longer to print. You will also now need 4 off M3 x 12 screws.
This is a mod for the new Creality CR6SE to replace the stock (noisy!) 30mm hotend fan with a larger (and quieter) 40 x 10mm fan. The supply is 24V.
This is still being prototyped and developed, but this version will work and I've printed about 20 hours with it fitted so far with no issues.
I suggest that it should be printed in something more temperature resistant than PLA for long term use, but mine is printed and will be developed in PLA.
I will take and post pictures when I fit the next prototype.
To ensure it actually reduces the sound level you should try and find the slowest 40mm fan you can, as most of the noise is generated by the blades passing parts under the guard, and air being pushed over the hotend. The 30mm fan does not move that much air.
It may be necessary to shorten the leads of a 40mm fan, or change the connector if it's not suitable already. Creality uses JST XH connectors. Google/ebay/amazon will find you a selection and a crimping tool if you feel inclined.
You will also need:
This thing!
1 off quiet 40 x 10mm 24V fan.
2 off M3 x 8 cap or pan head screws.
2 off M3 x 12 cap or pan head screws.
How to install:
Remove supports (carefully!) and tap inner holes M3.
It should work fine to just wind an M3 screw in.
Remove guard from printer.
Undo 2 screws holding the fan in.
Carefully unplug existing fan connector, peeling away hot glue as necessary.
Be very careful here not to damage the thermistor wires leading to the heater block.

Remove fan and spacer beneath it.

Screw in new printed part with 2 off M3 x 8 screws.
Plug in fan.
Screw fan to adapter with 4 off M3 x 12.
Replace guard.
Take care to ensure that wires being put back do not push the hotend or pull on anything. If you push the hotend then this will trigger the ABL sensor, which will then mean it always thinks the nozzle is touching the bed. It may help to put this back on with the power on so you can see if the blue light comes on when the sensor is triggered.