Thingiverse
CR-6SE Direct Drive Conversion by BostonBowser
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago
September 21st, 2020 Update:
I've added files for a cable guide. You need to print the Cable Guide and Cable Guide Stud. Print in the orientation they import in. There are no special settings to consider. You need a M3 hex nut and a M3x12 socket head cap screw. Installs on the far left hexagonal cutout above the cover for the X-axis pulley.
A filament spool holder with filament runout sensor is in the works.
September 16th, 2020 Update:
I've added a file named "Base Plate(no dd)" for those who don't want to convert to direct drive, shave a few grams off the weight of their X axis assembly, and upgrade to a 5015 radial fan. Follow the same steps noted below, just omit the steps pertaining to the direct drive conversion, omit an M3 hex nut and the M3x12 screw, and swap the M3x50 screw for an M3x40 one.
This is a direct drive conversion for the Creality CR-6SE.
Keep in mind that this isn't a beginner level modification and that this will void whatever warranty your machine has. If done incorrectly you could potentially damage your machine. I'm not responsible for any damages if you download and attempt installation. That being said...
Things you will need:
M3x50 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M3x40 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M5x30 Socket Head Cap Screw 2x
M3x8 Socket Head Cap Screw 6x
M3x12 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M3 Hex Nut Socket Head Cap Screw 6x
One 24v 5015 radial fan
One 25mm thick stepper motor (link to the one I used included)
Installation:
Completely break down the X axis back plate assembly including the top two roller wheels.
Replace the screws for the top two roller wheels with M5x30 socket head cap screws.
Install the Button in the hole in the X axis back plate.
Install Base Plate.
Install X axis board.
Install hotend with strain gauge bracket.
Plug everything in to the X axis board (you may need to reverse the polarity on the 5015 radial fan).
Break down the extruder assembly.
Install extruder and stepper motor onto the Extruder Bracket with the stepper motor connector facing the X axis end stop and the extruder lever facing the X axis tensioner.
Cut and install a longer length of PTFE tubing than you think you will need into the hotend.
Install Extruder Bracket assembly by sliding it onto the PTFE tube in the hotend and adjust the length of tube until the screw holes on the Extruder Bracket assembly line up with the matching screw holes on the Base Plate.
Slip fan duct onto output duct of 5015 radial fan.
Install 5015 radial fan.
Remove the glue from the X axis connectors behind the X axis motor and remove the stepper and filament runout sensor cables.
If you use the motor linked below, swap the middle two wires and extend the stepper cable by splicing appropriately sized wire into the original cable (you can use a pre-made extension cable, just don't mix up the wiring for the motor)
Extend the filament runout sensor cable using the same method as above.
Plug in the stepper motor and filament runout sensor.
Notes:
I don't have a mount made for the runout sensor or a top mount for a filament spool. Ideally the runout sensor would be on top of the machine and out of the way of the direct drive assembly.
I don't have a mount made to manage the wires. A 100mm Allen wrench duct taped to the cover for the toothed X axis pulley works well.
I messed with my E axis vref a bit and changed it to 1.00v. I don't know what it originally was, but that's what I set it to. If you're worried about the motor getting too hot, let your machine run for a while and touch your Y axis motor. Realistically you should use your judgement here and adjust your extruder vref to what you think is safe.
I'm sorry I didn't measure the exact length of PTFE tube needed.
The fan duct was thrown together in maybe ten minutes and has not been CFD tested like some of the fancier fan ducts. Air blows below the nozzle and that's about as much as I hoped for when designing and testing.
A step file of the CAD assembly is included if you're into that sort of thing.
Please comment if you have questions, concerns, or other feedback and I will try to regularly monitor this Thing.
Link to the stepper motor I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LESPDCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've added files for a cable guide. You need to print the Cable Guide and Cable Guide Stud. Print in the orientation they import in. There are no special settings to consider. You need a M3 hex nut and a M3x12 socket head cap screw. Installs on the far left hexagonal cutout above the cover for the X-axis pulley.
A filament spool holder with filament runout sensor is in the works.
September 16th, 2020 Update:
I've added a file named "Base Plate(no dd)" for those who don't want to convert to direct drive, shave a few grams off the weight of their X axis assembly, and upgrade to a 5015 radial fan. Follow the same steps noted below, just omit the steps pertaining to the direct drive conversion, omit an M3 hex nut and the M3x12 screw, and swap the M3x50 screw for an M3x40 one.
This is a direct drive conversion for the Creality CR-6SE.
Keep in mind that this isn't a beginner level modification and that this will void whatever warranty your machine has. If done incorrectly you could potentially damage your machine. I'm not responsible for any damages if you download and attempt installation. That being said...
Things you will need:
M3x50 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M3x40 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M5x30 Socket Head Cap Screw 2x
M3x8 Socket Head Cap Screw 6x
M3x12 Socket Head Cap Screw 1x
M3 Hex Nut Socket Head Cap Screw 6x
One 24v 5015 radial fan
One 25mm thick stepper motor (link to the one I used included)
Installation:
Completely break down the X axis back plate assembly including the top two roller wheels.
Replace the screws for the top two roller wheels with M5x30 socket head cap screws.
Install the Button in the hole in the X axis back plate.
Install Base Plate.
Install X axis board.
Install hotend with strain gauge bracket.
Plug everything in to the X axis board (you may need to reverse the polarity on the 5015 radial fan).
Break down the extruder assembly.
Install extruder and stepper motor onto the Extruder Bracket with the stepper motor connector facing the X axis end stop and the extruder lever facing the X axis tensioner.
Cut and install a longer length of PTFE tubing than you think you will need into the hotend.
Install Extruder Bracket assembly by sliding it onto the PTFE tube in the hotend and adjust the length of tube until the screw holes on the Extruder Bracket assembly line up with the matching screw holes on the Base Plate.
Slip fan duct onto output duct of 5015 radial fan.
Install 5015 radial fan.
Remove the glue from the X axis connectors behind the X axis motor and remove the stepper and filament runout sensor cables.
If you use the motor linked below, swap the middle two wires and extend the stepper cable by splicing appropriately sized wire into the original cable (you can use a pre-made extension cable, just don't mix up the wiring for the motor)
Extend the filament runout sensor cable using the same method as above.
Plug in the stepper motor and filament runout sensor.
Notes:
I don't have a mount made for the runout sensor or a top mount for a filament spool. Ideally the runout sensor would be on top of the machine and out of the way of the direct drive assembly.
I don't have a mount made to manage the wires. A 100mm Allen wrench duct taped to the cover for the toothed X axis pulley works well.
I messed with my E axis vref a bit and changed it to 1.00v. I don't know what it originally was, but that's what I set it to. If you're worried about the motor getting too hot, let your machine run for a while and touch your Y axis motor. Realistically you should use your judgement here and adjust your extruder vref to what you think is safe.
I'm sorry I didn't measure the exact length of PTFE tube needed.
The fan duct was thrown together in maybe ten minutes and has not been CFD tested like some of the fancier fan ducts. Air blows below the nozzle and that's about as much as I hoped for when designing and testing.
A step file of the CAD assembly is included if you're into that sort of thing.
Please comment if you have questions, concerns, or other feedback and I will try to regularly monitor this Thing.
Link to the stepper motor I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LESPDCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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