CR-10S electronics under-mount by reeseallen

Last crawled date: 4 years ago

Overview
The "all-in-one" design posted by Jan_P is pretty good. This is my take.
This is for the CR-10S. Period. Not the S4, not the S5, not the pro. CR-10S
This design completely deletes the LCD and control knob because I have never had to use them. Get yourself a Raspberry Pi and flash an Octopi image to it. There is no need to be messing with SD cards and crappy 40-years-out-of-date LCD interfaces. Turn your printer into a network appliance, you won't regret it!
The main board is the Creality 2.0 board
There is a provision for a Raspberry Pi for those who are running Octoprint
The feet are the three mounting hole type. Many CR-10 variants used four mounting holes. Mine uses three, so I've modified all the 4-hole models to instead use the three M4 flat head cap screws that mine came with.
I have posted 7 models. 6 of them are copied from Jan_P's thing and revised (revision notes below). The other one (blank cover) is my own design.
Again: this design is for a CR-10S with a Creality 2.0 board. If you have a CR-10, CR-10 S4 or S5, or any other variant, I know next to nothing about your printer and can't say anything about whether these models will work for you.
Changes I made to existing models
Removed cable tie bump things. I can't see how these are useful, I didn't use a single one, and they just add to print time.
Added holes on the Raspberry Pi panel so you can zip-tie unnecessary extra Z cable in a service loop here
Changed the PSU front panel to have vertical slots instead of horizontal. Horizontal adjustment is not necessary here, what you need is vertical flexibility.
Added weight- and print time-reducing pockets to the PSU front panel
For every M3 hole that has a nut on the backside, I closed out the hole at the transition from "counterbore" to M3 clearance hole so that it prints more cleanly. The downside is that you'll have to drill each hole out with a 3.2~4.0 mm drill bit after printing. No big deal.
What do I need to print?
Baseline, you absolutely must print:
3x RA-Squash_ball_foot_3-screw
1x RA-Squash_ball_foot_with_power_3-screw
1x RA-CR10S_Electronics_Cover
1x RA-Power_Supply_Cover
1x RA-Power_Supply_Cover_Front
If you want to fully close out the base section of the printer and create a nice continuous deck under the bed, also print these:
1x RA-Raspberry_PI_Cover (if you have a Raspberry Pi, you must print one of these)
2x RA-blank-front-cover
What do I need to buy?
All of the electronic components besides the power supply are fastened to the panels with M3 socket-head cap screws (SHCS) and ordinary hex nuts.
The power supply requires (4) M4 SHCS, about 8 mm long.
The panels themselves are fastened to the frame using M5 SHCS, mostly 10 mm long, though in some places you'll want to use an 8 mm one. I recommend buying a box of at least 25 M5 SHCS, 10 mm length, and a box of washers so that you can add washers if the screw is too long.
You will also need some T-nuts for the M5s; I used this one and it worked out OK: https://amzn.to/39HySOc
4-pack of squash balls for the feet. I used these and they are fine: https://amzn.to/2y45GDU
If you are using a Raspberry Pi, get a 12 VDC to 5 VDC buck converter.
Assembly and wiring
You are going to need:
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and standard accessories for it
Small zip ties
Disconnect everything. Unplug the control box from your wall outlet. Take apart the control box. Take lots of pictures and familiarize yourself with every component you are removing.
Take all the panels you have printed, and use a handheld drill to drill out all M3, M4, and M5 clearance holes/slots on each part.
Take each panel that has M3 hex nut-shaped counterbores and press a nut into each of them.
Turn your printer over on its side, blocking it up with pieces of wood.
Assemble each panel onto the frame per the pictures. Be patient with the T-nuts.
Wire as shown in the photos. You will have to extend, at the very least, the live and neutral wires that supply 120 VAC to the power supply, and you may have to extend the ground wire as well.
I have included a helpful diagram of the CR-10S Creality 2.0 board. Counter-intuitively, the fan that cools the entire main board is actually wired to the bed heater output MOSFET terminals. So the board gets no direct active cooling when the bed is off. In practice, this really isn't an issue, because 99.9% of users who know what they're doing are going to be running the heat bed if they're printing. It's certainly sub-optimal, but that's how Creality decided to wire it.
I had to add a DC-DC buck converter to step the 12 VDC from the PSU down to 5 VDC, which is then spliced into a micro USB cable to power the Raspberry Pi. I did not add mounting features for the buck converter, because you can use any one you want, and just glue it into place with hot glue, or drill a couple of holes and zip-tie it in place. I used hot glue.