Thingiverse
CR-10 (all Vers.) Beastmod / Stand Alone Mod by n3verless
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
N3verless´ CR-10 Beastmod (All Versions)
UPDATE: THIS MOD WONT BE UPDATED ANYMORE BECAUSE I AM WORKING ON THE BEASTMOD V2! :D
Not all parts are included! I am going to include Everything soon!
As everyone of you know: The CR-10 is not a bad printer out oft the box. Big volume, cheap parts and a huge community are just a few benefits from this monster of printer. But the CR-10 does also have a few flaws, for example loud steppers, a controllbox (thats based on the users view) and a (not very hard) wobbly frame.
My idea was it to create a usefull modded CR-10 version that does not require any changes on the Firmware and just basic knowledge in soldering, maybe some drilling – so, just be a normal 3D-Print-I-Tinker-Everything-Guy and you will be ok.
For information: I have a CR-10 5S myself, so all of it is pretty much based on this printer but also works on all CR-10 that share the same controllbox.
Note: There is a list of parts you have to buy at the end!
My thoughts:
Frame:
The frame of the CR-10 is build out of 2020 profiles and „ok“ stiff. This mod adds a few corners and braces fort he CR-10 to get more stiffer.
Controllbox:
Get rid of the controllbox was one of the most important tasks to do. The controllbox houses the display, the MELZI-Board and the PSU. All together there are 3 fans who can be pretty noisy. With the Beastmod you can get rid of the loud fans, can place the Display somewhere you want and just dont have the controllbox anymore. Yay!
(Soldering see in the desciption in the files, i am going to do a PDF and video also)
PFTE + Cables:
No chain, but a simple cable-hodler to hold the cable and PFTE over the printerbed. Simple
Steppers:
Just buy stepper-damper. You can choose to change the Z-Motors to but ist just a nice to have (and also turnst he printer into an unhearable thing)
Printhead:
You have to change the 40mm fan and the fanduct and you are done. For 101% you can cut out the fan grid. Also you can print a newer fanduct that will make everything abit better.
Z-Stop:
For better leveling you should use the adjustable endstop. Small mod getting big things done. Awesome.
Spool:
Just screw the original Spool on top oft he printer: Work is done, no filament and rocketscience.
After this the CR-10 is a even more solid printer and looks a bit more professional. I am going to add:
Cable Chains
LED-Mounting
Filamentfilter
Filament guide
Extruder dustcover
Everything else that comes in my head to help the printer!
Things you need to buy:
M4 and M3 screws, washers, nuts.. Get a few packages for later work.
M4 Hammerhead-Nuts (50-Pack from Amazon will do)
XXXmm Rod for the framebrace
2x 60mm Fan (Sunon 60x60x15mm HA60151V4-999 DC 12V) fort he power supply and
the Mainbox
1x 40mm Fan (Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX 12V Attention: Look out, there is also a 5V version. You have to buy the 12V Version)
2-3 Meters of 16Gauge / 1,5mm Cable
UPDATE: THIS MOD WONT BE UPDATED ANYMORE BECAUSE I AM WORKING ON THE BEASTMOD V2! :D
Not all parts are included! I am going to include Everything soon!
As everyone of you know: The CR-10 is not a bad printer out oft the box. Big volume, cheap parts and a huge community are just a few benefits from this monster of printer. But the CR-10 does also have a few flaws, for example loud steppers, a controllbox (thats based on the users view) and a (not very hard) wobbly frame.
My idea was it to create a usefull modded CR-10 version that does not require any changes on the Firmware and just basic knowledge in soldering, maybe some drilling – so, just be a normal 3D-Print-I-Tinker-Everything-Guy and you will be ok.
For information: I have a CR-10 5S myself, so all of it is pretty much based on this printer but also works on all CR-10 that share the same controllbox.
Note: There is a list of parts you have to buy at the end!
My thoughts:
Frame:
The frame of the CR-10 is build out of 2020 profiles and „ok“ stiff. This mod adds a few corners and braces fort he CR-10 to get more stiffer.
Controllbox:
Get rid of the controllbox was one of the most important tasks to do. The controllbox houses the display, the MELZI-Board and the PSU. All together there are 3 fans who can be pretty noisy. With the Beastmod you can get rid of the loud fans, can place the Display somewhere you want and just dont have the controllbox anymore. Yay!
(Soldering see in the desciption in the files, i am going to do a PDF and video also)
PFTE + Cables:
No chain, but a simple cable-hodler to hold the cable and PFTE over the printerbed. Simple
Steppers:
Just buy stepper-damper. You can choose to change the Z-Motors to but ist just a nice to have (and also turnst he printer into an unhearable thing)
Printhead:
You have to change the 40mm fan and the fanduct and you are done. For 101% you can cut out the fan grid. Also you can print a newer fanduct that will make everything abit better.
Z-Stop:
For better leveling you should use the adjustable endstop. Small mod getting big things done. Awesome.
Spool:
Just screw the original Spool on top oft he printer: Work is done, no filament and rocketscience.
After this the CR-10 is a even more solid printer and looks a bit more professional. I am going to add:
Cable Chains
LED-Mounting
Filamentfilter
Filament guide
Extruder dustcover
Everything else that comes in my head to help the printer!
Things you need to buy:
M4 and M3 screws, washers, nuts.. Get a few packages for later work.
M4 Hammerhead-Nuts (50-Pack from Amazon will do)
XXXmm Rod for the framebrace
2x 60mm Fan (Sunon 60x60x15mm HA60151V4-999 DC 12V) fort he power supply and
the Mainbox
1x 40mm Fan (Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX 12V Attention: Look out, there is also a 5V version. You have to buy the 12V Version)
2-3 Meters of 16Gauge / 1,5mm Cable
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