CoreXY Power Carriage by merlinds

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

This is the carriage I designed for my custom coreXY printer. It features a compact design, aimed to take advantage of HIP´s high temperature melting point to minimize the spacing between the block and the carriage plate thus allowing me to use an original vulcano block and heat break from e3d combined with a regular mk8 direct drive, and achiving very similar performance as my original titan aero that I have in my other printer.
Notice the following, the spacing between the smooth rods is 59mm from center to center, that can be adjusted in Fusion 360.
If you want to use a clone heat break, notice that you will need to print "Lower Guide For Clone Barrel.stl" to match the 6mm end.
If you are using an original e3d heat break, you may need to expad your mk8 aluminum plate threaded hole from 6mm to 7mm, this can be achieved with a 6mm drill bit and a 7mm male hole maker (dunno the name in english). Either way, you should make some small dents in the upper part of the thread to stop the heat break from going through.
Basically you put the tip of a philips screw drive right next to the top end of the threaded hole and hit it carefully with a hammer to deform the end of the screw and block the heat break. (see Captura.png)
Measure the nema 17 body to match the one i´m using, or edit the brace, it is important to get a tigh fit there.
If you can match the convo of hobb and iddler i´m using, you will get great performance for flex filaments.
Vitamins required:
1 mk8 direct drive (6 or 7mm thread for heat break) with heatsink and fan
1 vulcano heat break with thermistor and catridge
1 e3d heat break
1 nema 17 medium torque
3 lmu8 bearings
1 bltouch
1 centrifugal fan
2 m3 screws with nuts and a few washers
3 m2 or less tiny screws to hold the bracket to the plate
1 big wood screw to hold the cables from the cable holders, get creative here
some teflon tube to fill the lower guidem upper guide and filler screw
Some Amazon items I found that match what I´m using:https://www.amazon.com/Widewing-Geeetech-Extruder-Aluminum-for1-75mm/dp/B07D3TH2Y8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1528074107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mk8+geeetech&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071WMHNG5&pd_rd_r=B8JP879177YK2B8F2C5P&pd_rd_w=6N2kN&pd_rd_wg=TFiwh&psc=1&refRID=B8JP879177YK2B8F2C5P&dpID=51cWTBpsDFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773MW3X7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_9?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0773MW3X7&pd_rd_wg=MqDMU&pd_rd_r=5CG148HWSR9PHYDWBW93&pd_rd_w=2mxV1
If you want to replace the original hub for this one you will need to file the idler a bit so the filament gets squished, once you do the extruder will work great with flex.https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Filament-Printer-Extruder/dp/B07BSR9FWH/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527594418&sr=1-3&keywords=3d+printer+hobbed+gear
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Heat-Break-1-75mm-V6-175-BREAK/dp/B077Y2MHW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527594748&sr=8-5&keywords=e3d+heatbreak
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Volcano-Block-Heater/dp/B07BFYL3KN/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1527594389&sr=8-10&keywords=e3d+volcano
https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Hangar-NEMA-Stepper-Motor/dp/B079S6JGG3/ref=sr_1_22?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527594487&sr=1-22&keywords=nema+17