Thingiverse
Continuity tester model and upgrade by makibox850
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
The thing:
No bird house, no Saturn V rocket. Just a handy tool.
Make something good even better.
Have recently set the focus on the blue newer version (V2).
The grey older version (V1) can be changed for using nowadays batteries as well.
See below.
This is a versatile electro installation-/ car- /motorcycle- /bicycle- continuity tester.
Production started 1956. Over the time many improved releases were issued.
Production has ended 1990.
Still sold by western profit makers after they had shot down my country and grabbed for pennies the good things we made.
TODO:
-make a new electronics assembly
-revise the top cone design, thread has not been perfectly centered (Tinkercad fail)
Why is that?
When Tinkercad aligns two selected shapes it uses a few outer edges or points on the perimeter for reference.
This does not work on threads or similar non uniformly shaped objects.
Even on triangles andhexagonal nuts the alignment depends on the relative orientation, mainly the hight of the top over the base.
It should use the centerline of the objects or the midpoint it had started when making using a script at least on demand. I.e. thread generator script.
They should fix it a.s.a.p.
But no.
It has many flaws , same with Thingiverse.
They are still messing with everytime changed website layout and laggy servers, it happens for years makes it worse each time they put theyr hands on.
The candidates:
-tester V1 (grey) just the battery and a green(white) indicator soffitte lamp (2.5Volts)
-tester V2 (blue)
Tester V2 has a piezo buzzer and a 5mm red LED built in.
The top part of tester V2 seems to be friction welded onto the handle/battery compartment part 2. I could not pry it open without damaging the "electronics".
Update:
Made the new top cone for the blue Prueffix V2 tester
Made the thread at the cut open top of the handle.
Cut it open using a hack saw the bue tester lost its cone now.
The assembly can be used together with the ATTiny tester electronics.
Good. It needs just a little rewiring.
Modify them for using modern types of batteries.
The older grey tester (V1)
A little longer spring allows running grey tester (overvolted) from a single 18650 battery instead of EOL 2R10 (type 8) at 3 volts. Put resistor or two diodes in series to bring the voltage down.
The newer tester (V2)
New circuitry or just the adapter thing filling the empty space allows running the blue tester from a single 3 volts battery (123A) instead of two AA each at 1.5 volts.
For the "electronics" modification
Parts used:
as of the schematics from technoblogy
ATTiny 85 ,I will try to fit the 8 PDIP chip
capacitor foil 0.1uF
resistor 2.7kOhm
resistor 51 Ohm
LED 3mm/5mm red or green
small piezzo buzzer
For the stock tiny 10mm buzzer (polarized! with integrated driver) I had to put a resistor of 180 Ohm in series.
Otherwise it would not beep or start oscillating permanently.
For buzzers with own drivers the code could be changed.
It works even with just pulling the pin 3 "High" for the intended duration of beeping.
No PWM is neded.
Software
-ATTiny code http://www.technoblogy.com/list?1ZNS
-files from Technoblogy (compressed ZIP-file)
-Arduino IDE supplemental files
ATTiny Core files https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore
No bird house, no Saturn V rocket. Just a handy tool.
Make something good even better.
Have recently set the focus on the blue newer version (V2).
The grey older version (V1) can be changed for using nowadays batteries as well.
See below.
This is a versatile electro installation-/ car- /motorcycle- /bicycle- continuity tester.
Production started 1956. Over the time many improved releases were issued.
Production has ended 1990.
Still sold by western profit makers after they had shot down my country and grabbed for pennies the good things we made.
TODO:
-make a new electronics assembly
-revise the top cone design, thread has not been perfectly centered (Tinkercad fail)
Why is that?
When Tinkercad aligns two selected shapes it uses a few outer edges or points on the perimeter for reference.
This does not work on threads or similar non uniformly shaped objects.
Even on triangles andhexagonal nuts the alignment depends on the relative orientation, mainly the hight of the top over the base.
It should use the centerline of the objects or the midpoint it had started when making using a script at least on demand. I.e. thread generator script.
They should fix it a.s.a.p.
But no.
It has many flaws , same with Thingiverse.
They are still messing with everytime changed website layout and laggy servers, it happens for years makes it worse each time they put theyr hands on.
The candidates:
-tester V1 (grey) just the battery and a green(white) indicator soffitte lamp (2.5Volts)
-tester V2 (blue)
Tester V2 has a piezo buzzer and a 5mm red LED built in.
The top part of tester V2 seems to be friction welded onto the handle/battery compartment part 2. I could not pry it open without damaging the "electronics".
Update:
Made the new top cone for the blue Prueffix V2 tester
Made the thread at the cut open top of the handle.
Cut it open using a hack saw the bue tester lost its cone now.
The assembly can be used together with the ATTiny tester electronics.
Good. It needs just a little rewiring.
Modify them for using modern types of batteries.
The older grey tester (V1)
A little longer spring allows running grey tester (overvolted) from a single 18650 battery instead of EOL 2R10 (type 8) at 3 volts. Put resistor or two diodes in series to bring the voltage down.
The newer tester (V2)
New circuitry or just the adapter thing filling the empty space allows running the blue tester from a single 3 volts battery (123A) instead of two AA each at 1.5 volts.
For the "electronics" modification
Parts used:
as of the schematics from technoblogy
ATTiny 85 ,I will try to fit the 8 PDIP chip
capacitor foil 0.1uF
resistor 2.7kOhm
resistor 51 Ohm
LED 3mm/5mm red or green
small piezzo buzzer
For the stock tiny 10mm buzzer (polarized! with integrated driver) I had to put a resistor of 180 Ohm in series.
Otherwise it would not beep or start oscillating permanently.
For buzzers with own drivers the code could be changed.
It works even with just pulling the pin 3 "High" for the intended duration of beeping.
No PWM is neded.
Software
-ATTiny code http://www.technoblogy.com/list?1ZNS
-files from Technoblogy (compressed ZIP-file)
-Arduino IDE supplemental files
ATTiny Core files https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore
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