Brushless beecheese frame (Semi ducted micro brushless frame) by Noctaro

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

My first design for a brushless micro quadcopter.
So far it works quite well. :)
This design is not superlight but it can take some hits. Keep in mind it is no tank.
Using holes in your ducts(propguards) does reduce weight and wind resistance while keeping your props and motors save. I crashed some frames, but my components never took damage.
I flew it using a 850mah 3S Lipo, wich might be a bit heavy for this setup. I would recommend around 600mah with at least 45C at 3S. The 2S felt a bit like a brushed copter. As you can see in the motors display of the posted video, they max out very often at even quite chilledflight style. I would not recommend it for acro. But for a bit of cruising around, its still fun even at only 2S. And motors come down quite cold. But i guess you can use ohter props for this combo to be a rocket on 2S either.
It does fly with an old NAZE32 for the moment. Will be replaced with an F4 board with OSD soon. The DYS 1104 7000KV motors work great as soon as you found the right settings for your filters. Otherwise they will burn your frame. Or themselfes. The filters will be quite a bit off to the standart settings. Yaw axis was worst. I had to reduce gyro lpf on yaw to 60hz to get a clean gyro line. This may have to do with the vibrations coming from the frame itself. The motor had most vibration around 150Hz, so i set notch 1 to 120-160hz. Dynamic filtering may do a great job, but i cant test it on this old F1 board.
When powering your quad from 3S, you can feel the power! Just check the motor temperatures.
It should fit a runcam split. I just dont have one to test it.
If you have some flexible filament you may print the tpu motor mounts to reduce vibrations on your frame. For me this worked quite good.
You may also try to print the short standoffs using tpu. I did not test it, but this should also reduce vibrations. For now i mounted my board onto slices of "oropax" earplugs. This works quite well.
The camclip could also work well with some kinds of tpu.
I would be very happy to see your make and get some feedback :)
Update 01: I have added more rigid and better fitting standoffs.
Update 02: Added a adapter plate for 16x16mm and 20x20mm esc/fc boards.
First testflights:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SuSf5NGn1I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUqmeL1QVv0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEp7pilJSx4
Weight including Lipo (3S 850mah): 170 gram
Motor to motor distance: 80mm
Awesome flightcontroller firmware: Betaflight 3.2.0 RC4https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight (Open Source)
Components:Components:
Screws & Nuts:
6x M2 7mm screws - duct mount (can be replaced with longer screws)
3x M2 7mm screws - topplate mount (can be replaced with longer or shorter screws)
3x M2 10mm screws - duct and standoff mount
16x M2 3mm screws - motor mount (should be the regular screw length that comes with your motors.)
9x M2 nut
M2 screwset:M2 screw set
Motors:DYS - 1104 7000KV
Props:Gemfan flash - 2540 - triblade
ESC:Racestar 4 in 1 12A using DSHOT 600
Recommended flightcontrol:Omnibus F4 with OSD
Lipo 2S2S Lipo 60C
FPV cam/transmitter combo:Eachine TX06(supports smart audio)
or
FPV camera:Runcam Split Nano
and
FPV transmitter:Eachine NANO VTX
5V active Buzzer (take it, if you dont want to search your quad for hours and hours.)Buzzer and LED
Further you need:
Transmitter and receiver of your choice. I use the Flysky I6 with SBUS modFlysky I6 with A8S combo
FPV goggle: Kylin Vision
Charger
ISDT Q6 Plus 300W 14A MINI Pocket Battery Balance Charger (professional charger)https://goo.gl/oh4Yrr (Link to banggood.com)
or
REMO E9393 Li-Po Balance Charger (basic charger)https://goo.gl/cu4ndJ (Link to banggood.com)
Screws:
4x M3 Nut
12x M3 screw
I recommend metal screws for the first time using the screw holes. Afterwards you may use abs or anything like that.