Thingiverse
Black Diamond E3D V6 Fan Shroud Remix by heatvent
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
It seemed like the Black Diamond E3D mount was never going to adapted for the v6 hot end so I did some crude customizing in Tinkercad. I basically shorted the fan shroud by 7.4mm and lowered the holes on the X-axis moutn where the fan shroud / E3D mount attach to accommodate for the shorter body length of the E3D v6 vs the v5. This seemed to be the easiest way so that the heat block is in the same position and the rest of the pieces remain in tact. I have an Anet A8 so I modified the Anet A8 X bracket. Not sure of the difference since both versions say they are for X-rods that at 45mm apart.
WARNING! I have not tried this yet so use at your own risk!
UPDATE: I started over and I think I got this to be printable. The round part of the fan shroud was so thin it was difficult to get this to work. Also, the original version didn't seem to be fully water tight. So I shored up some spots to fill in any holes I found in the model and I added a couple of additional supports just to make sure this thing didn't fall apart as I pulled it from the printer bed.
I HAD TO USE A BRIM given the thin fan shroud. I couldn't get this to print as that part is so thin and fragile and difficult to get the ABS to stick to the bed on its own with getting pushed by the printhead and distorted. I printed the shroud and the bracket using ABS. I used PLA for the X-axis mount as this doesn't get near the hot end.
Let me know how this works out for you!
UPDATE (TBD) - I didn't have the threaded brass fittings and didn't like the idea of jamming regular M3/4 nuts into round holes (actually had marginal success when I tried). So I made another change to include captive M3 nuts for the optional mounts on the bottom of the front and M4 for the other spots were things were getting "secured/bolted" to the main X-axis plate. You have to use the "Pause at Height" plugin for Cura or similar to stop at 4.0mm (0.8mm / 4 layers then 3.2mm for the nut) and 19.2mm so the print will stop at these layers and let you drop / push the nuts into the model before printing is resumed. Be very careful not to move the print bed when doing this which can be a bit tricky because I made the space for the nuts a fairly tight fit.
RECOMMENDATION: I would print the X-axis carriage at at least 40% and 5 perimeters (1.0mm walls with 0.2mm layer height) to make sure there is enough strength and durability. The design is quite intricate in spots and I have broken this when pulling off the build plate, etc. as there are certainly some weak spots.
WARNING! I have not tried this yet so use at your own risk!
UPDATE: I started over and I think I got this to be printable. The round part of the fan shroud was so thin it was difficult to get this to work. Also, the original version didn't seem to be fully water tight. So I shored up some spots to fill in any holes I found in the model and I added a couple of additional supports just to make sure this thing didn't fall apart as I pulled it from the printer bed.
I HAD TO USE A BRIM given the thin fan shroud. I couldn't get this to print as that part is so thin and fragile and difficult to get the ABS to stick to the bed on its own with getting pushed by the printhead and distorted. I printed the shroud and the bracket using ABS. I used PLA for the X-axis mount as this doesn't get near the hot end.
Let me know how this works out for you!
UPDATE (TBD) - I didn't have the threaded brass fittings and didn't like the idea of jamming regular M3/4 nuts into round holes (actually had marginal success when I tried). So I made another change to include captive M3 nuts for the optional mounts on the bottom of the front and M4 for the other spots were things were getting "secured/bolted" to the main X-axis plate. You have to use the "Pause at Height" plugin for Cura or similar to stop at 4.0mm (0.8mm / 4 layers then 3.2mm for the nut) and 19.2mm so the print will stop at these layers and let you drop / push the nuts into the model before printing is resumed. Be very careful not to move the print bed when doing this which can be a bit tricky because I made the space for the nuts a fairly tight fit.
RECOMMENDATION: I would print the X-axis carriage at at least 40% and 5 perimeters (1.0mm walls with 0.2mm layer height) to make sure there is enough strength and durability. The design is quite intricate in spots and I have broken this when pulling off the build plate, etc. as there are certainly some weak spots.
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