Bed Flatness test model by VentusV

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

If you want to know exactly how crooked your glass, mirror and the aluminum bed are, or if your X gantry is not in perfect level, run this test.
edit: Be sure to level the bed as you usually do before running this. You can use this to level the bed and you will try to adjust as its working but it takes at least an hour for the first layer. Its better if the bed is already leveled. i recommend and use Tacblades Easy leveling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkZUAyTxU1Q
Both models are the same, one just has small empty triangles in the middle to be more fancy. (it will also show you how precise your printer is) Both are 295 in diameter, but you can increase or decrees the size in your slicer, if you want to.
Models are 1mm thick and you choose the layer height and other settings yourself as it fits your usual printing practice. Usually one layer is enough to see the discrepancies, but sometimes they show up only on subsequent higher layers.
As the lines fill up run a finger over them. If you notice the surface is rough in some places, as if its sanded, thats where your bed is too high, or nozzle too low. If the distortion in bigger you will get small rough piles and "hills" of plastic, sometimes looking like tentacles spreading across the lines direction.
Any dips in the printing surface will make the lines first look slightly separated and then peal off.
The thing is... the setup of CR 10 mechanics and materials makes it so that all the aluminum beds distort and bend, even if they were mostly flat at the start, and the glass and mirrors follow along, with all the heating and cooling and bending on the four corners.
The more you print, the worse it all gets.
Have a nice day.
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p.s.
I am now on a quest to solve this conundrum and achieve perfect flatness!