Atomic Pi Delux Vertical Desktop Case - Enhanced parts

Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago

I made a few adjustments to JISpal01's design to suit my desires.
I didn't buy the developer kit, and didn't want to track down those antennas or something sufficiently similar. I had some ipx to rp-sma pigtails left over from another project, so the with-bolts top is remixed to accept SMA connectors. I apologize that you will need two wrenches to tighten the nuts.
You can get a pair of pigtails and antennas on amazon or ebay or aliexpress for way less than the correct antennas to match the original design. Even sold in a complete kit.
https://www.amazon.com/HUACAM-5-8GHz-Dual-Band-Wireless-Network-Antenna/dp/B06WD7FZV4/ref=sr_1_23
The "finisher" (rear bottom piece) has two small holes in it to accommodate a momentary switch attached to the clearly marked "pwr" connector pads, and a power indicator LED connected to pin 8 of the eeprom pads in the bluetooth area. Just solder fine wires to the pads and glue them down.
The switch hole is sized for, uh, i dunno, a common pushbutton momentary switch. I think Cherry (who made the one i used) would call it "subminiature" though you can surely find smaller. The hole in 6.5mm to fit quarter-inch-ish barrels.
The LED hole is sized for a standard clip-on holder for a 5mm led. You'll want a 200 ohm or so resistor in series.
The power button acts just like any other computer's power button. momentary press to turn on or to trigger shutdown, hold down 15 seconds to force power off.
The LED will turn off when a shutdown completes successfully but weirdly not when forcing power off.
See this reddit wiki page for tweaks to get (l)ubuntu to shut down successfully, and other tweaks:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Atomic_Pi/wiki/ubuntu
The lower duct has been remixed to accommodate a slim USB hub.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2442H0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00
I would bet that you can get the same hub on aliexpress or ebay under various brands and unbranded.
This part is printed with support on the build plate obviously.
In order to make it fit you have to take the housing off of the usb hub (just slip a dull tool into the gap and pry, there's no glue or clips) and trim off the plastic at the end where the cable enters to about where the board starts. As seen in my pictures.
Connecting it is pretty straightforward if you have JST-PH connectors and crimper and know how to use them. Or you can solder. The pinout is available a bunch of places on the web. It has two grounds and you only need one.
The "camera" connector on the board is a JST-PA which is pretty unusual. You can get the plug and assembled wires from Digikey - I think the links are on the digital loggers site at this point, or at least the part numbers. You can get the JST-PA stuff and solder the wires to the board in the hub just as you would if you were soldering to a single usb port per the original design.
The remix of the "structure" piece is just to make the holes on the sides small enough that they need to be tapped for m4 screws. I use the combination drill-and-tap bits that I am pretty sure are often referred to as "power taps" but i only ever use them on plastic by putting them in a screwdriver handle.