Thingiverse
Arduino FM Radio with RDA5807 Module by erdayo
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 3 months ago
This is an Arduino FM Radio I built by combining 2 different designs. I give all the credit to the two original designers, and I just tweaked the design and .stl files to fit my needs.
If you are looking for a intermediate project for both Arduino and 3D Printing, this can be done in about 2 hours (not counting printing time).
I hate when projects are posted with vague instructions, so I will try to post as much detail as I can. Hit me up if you have any questions for suggestions for improvements.
The first design I used was this one:https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/indoorgeek/fm-radio-using-arduino-and-rda8057m-73a262?ref=tag&ref_id=radio&offset=11
From this design I took the basic schematic for the radio design itself, the method for mounting the switches, the amplifier circuit, parts of the schematic, and the starting point for the 3D Print files.
I heavily modified the design and did not use the code, so I would just use this as the starting point.
This is the second design I used:https://maker.pro/arduino/projects/simple-fm-radio-receiver-with-arduino-uno-and-rda5807m
I used this design as the main basis of my schematic, including the code in this design, as well as the guide in connecting the RDA5807M, the three button circuit to adjust the station and volume. This specific design does not use a onboard speaker and is designed for a 3.5mmaudio jack. I took this design and added the audio amplifier circuit and speakers from the first design to get a all inclusive FM radio.
The main difference is I used two smaller speakers instead of one big one so I could take advantage of the stereo output of the PAM 8403 Audio Amplifier Module.
I also used tactile switches that did not require printing any additional buttons.
I also used a Arduino Nano as the main circuit, not the Uno.
Here is a list of parts I used. If you use different sized parts (specifically parts that fit in the face plate), you may need to adjust the Radio Face file. If you use the parts I list below, all the holes should fit.
-1x Arduino Nano
3x 10K resistors
-1x RDA5807M FM Radio Tuner IC (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pZmkeqg5h8)
NOTE This chip is ver small and does not come connected to a PC board like typical modules. You will have to take this part and make your own board (see either of the two designs I posted for more specific details or watch this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pZmkeqg5h8) and I highly recommend using clipped off leads from an old resistor to wire this chip.
2x 3W Speakers. These come in packs of two (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LN8ONG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-1x I2C OLED Display module 0.91 inch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FGVKM91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-3x Tactile switches (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0897CL27V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-1x PAM8403 Audio Amplifier (you may want a plastic knob for it if you don't have one. Just search Amazon for Potentiometer Knobs)
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TB17NLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
1 Slide Switch on/off (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08947137H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A32JEPL2VLYM8R&psc=1)
Not Needed but Recommended:
A Really good Hot Glue Gun (I used a Gorilla Glue Gun I got at Walmart)
Female to Female Jumper Wires
-Female to Male Jumper Wires
Male to Male Jumper Wires
Stranded (not solid core) Wire.
I found pre-made jumper wire, especially female to male, made it a lot easier to attach to things like the Amplifier or the OLED boards.
Some good Perf Board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV8BKNF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Steps I used to build it:
Assembled the radio on some bread board to test it
Build the circuit using the example in the two designs I posted.
Printed all the files on my printer. Start with the radio face V5
Glued the 2 speakers to the radio face (make sure you glue them on the inside facing out)
Built a separate board just to hold the 3 switches (*using the method in the first design as a guide) You may have to cut your switch circuit board so that it fits between the speakers.
6.To allow switches to be pushed without having them get pushed in the radio, I printed 2 of the the "button face plates". I then hot glued the button face plates to each side of the switch circuit. Then glued them to the back of the face plate. This ensured that the tactile switches protruded enough through the front of the face plate, but were glued to the back of the face plate so they wouldn't get pushed in when pressed.
Screwed in the Amplifier though the opening and secured it with the attached screw (you can put the knob on later)
Printed the "OLED No Holes" .stl file. I then CAREfULLY glued the OLED display into the OLED No Holes print. Ensuring that when the display was operational, it was right side up as you looked at the front of the radio (you may want to check which is "Right side up" when you are testing on your perf board). Once the OLED display was correctly glued into the "OLED No Holes", I then glued the OLED No Holes onto the radio face so that the pins for the display were accessible from the back side (you can do this a different way, this way just worked easiest for me)
8.5 Attached your on/off switch through the hole in the radio face plate. You can adjust this based upon what size switch you use, but it's the pre-made rectangular hole)
Connected all the jumper wires where they should go (OLED Display, Amplifier, etc)
10.Run the USB C cable through the large hole in the back plate, ensuring you put a knot in the cable on the inside so you don't accidently pull out the cable.
Run a piece of wire for the antenna out the small hole in the back plate.
Enjoy your radio.
One problem I did note is that when powering it with a USB and 5v charging brick, if I had the radio volume set to 15, and tried to turn the knob on the power amp all the way up, the radio would cut off and reset (I'm guessing I was trying to push too much power).
When I set the radio volume to 8, I was able to use the full range of control on the amplifier.
This is my first post so feedback is welcome.
Enjoy
If you are looking for a intermediate project for both Arduino and 3D Printing, this can be done in about 2 hours (not counting printing time).
I hate when projects are posted with vague instructions, so I will try to post as much detail as I can. Hit me up if you have any questions for suggestions for improvements.
The first design I used was this one:https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/indoorgeek/fm-radio-using-arduino-and-rda8057m-73a262?ref=tag&ref_id=radio&offset=11
From this design I took the basic schematic for the radio design itself, the method for mounting the switches, the amplifier circuit, parts of the schematic, and the starting point for the 3D Print files.
I heavily modified the design and did not use the code, so I would just use this as the starting point.
This is the second design I used:https://maker.pro/arduino/projects/simple-fm-radio-receiver-with-arduino-uno-and-rda5807m
I used this design as the main basis of my schematic, including the code in this design, as well as the guide in connecting the RDA5807M, the three button circuit to adjust the station and volume. This specific design does not use a onboard speaker and is designed for a 3.5mmaudio jack. I took this design and added the audio amplifier circuit and speakers from the first design to get a all inclusive FM radio.
The main difference is I used two smaller speakers instead of one big one so I could take advantage of the stereo output of the PAM 8403 Audio Amplifier Module.
I also used tactile switches that did not require printing any additional buttons.
I also used a Arduino Nano as the main circuit, not the Uno.
Here is a list of parts I used. If you use different sized parts (specifically parts that fit in the face plate), you may need to adjust the Radio Face file. If you use the parts I list below, all the holes should fit.
-1x Arduino Nano
3x 10K resistors
-1x RDA5807M FM Radio Tuner IC (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pZmkeqg5h8)
NOTE This chip is ver small and does not come connected to a PC board like typical modules. You will have to take this part and make your own board (see either of the two designs I posted for more specific details or watch this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pZmkeqg5h8) and I highly recommend using clipped off leads from an old resistor to wire this chip.
2x 3W Speakers. These come in packs of two (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LN8ONG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-1x I2C OLED Display module 0.91 inch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FGVKM91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-3x Tactile switches (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0897CL27V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-1x PAM8403 Audio Amplifier (you may want a plastic knob for it if you don't have one. Just search Amazon for Potentiometer Knobs)
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TB17NLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
1 Slide Switch on/off (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08947137H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A32JEPL2VLYM8R&psc=1)
Not Needed but Recommended:
A Really good Hot Glue Gun (I used a Gorilla Glue Gun I got at Walmart)
Female to Female Jumper Wires
-Female to Male Jumper Wires
Male to Male Jumper Wires
Stranded (not solid core) Wire.
I found pre-made jumper wire, especially female to male, made it a lot easier to attach to things like the Amplifier or the OLED boards.
Some good Perf Board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV8BKNF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Steps I used to build it:
Assembled the radio on some bread board to test it
Build the circuit using the example in the two designs I posted.
Printed all the files on my printer. Start with the radio face V5
Glued the 2 speakers to the radio face (make sure you glue them on the inside facing out)
Built a separate board just to hold the 3 switches (*using the method in the first design as a guide) You may have to cut your switch circuit board so that it fits between the speakers.
6.To allow switches to be pushed without having them get pushed in the radio, I printed 2 of the the "button face plates". I then hot glued the button face plates to each side of the switch circuit. Then glued them to the back of the face plate. This ensured that the tactile switches protruded enough through the front of the face plate, but were glued to the back of the face plate so they wouldn't get pushed in when pressed.
Screwed in the Amplifier though the opening and secured it with the attached screw (you can put the knob on later)
Printed the "OLED No Holes" .stl file. I then CAREfULLY glued the OLED display into the OLED No Holes print. Ensuring that when the display was operational, it was right side up as you looked at the front of the radio (you may want to check which is "Right side up" when you are testing on your perf board). Once the OLED display was correctly glued into the "OLED No Holes", I then glued the OLED No Holes onto the radio face so that the pins for the display were accessible from the back side (you can do this a different way, this way just worked easiest for me)
8.5 Attached your on/off switch through the hole in the radio face plate. You can adjust this based upon what size switch you use, but it's the pre-made rectangular hole)
Connected all the jumper wires where they should go (OLED Display, Amplifier, etc)
10.Run the USB C cable through the large hole in the back plate, ensuring you put a knot in the cable on the inside so you don't accidently pull out the cable.
Run a piece of wire for the antenna out the small hole in the back plate.
Enjoy your radio.
One problem I did note is that when powering it with a USB and 5v charging brick, if I had the radio volume set to 15, and tried to turn the knob on the power amp all the way up, the radio would cut off and reset (I'm guessing I was trying to push too much power).
When I set the radio volume to 8, I was able to use the full range of control on the amplifier.
This is my first post so feedback is welcome.
Enjoy
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